This is half the fun in bike mod! LOL

I find Hollowtech is stiffer, the chainring don't wobble around when pedal hard, which may lead to the chainring/chain rubbing the FD. By weight it's a few grams lighter but it's negligible difference. I don't find it lighter to pedal. just the stiff and rigid feel give confident when I pedal hard and long.

but the stiffer part is only a general opinion. I was given an used square-taper no brand triple Crankset (50/40/30T) for my AhPekVelo built, it's steel and I later found out it's only RM 20. I pun over 1000km on it and it feels as stiff as the non-series shimano on my mini velo. the only difference I get between them is that the shimano feels a tat more fluid when I pedal. No, don't feel any lighter when pedaling between the 2. after 200km continuous pedalling, everything is heavy
maybe it's the frame, maybe it's the crankset material, maybe it's the chainring BCD, maybe is my fat bottom… really don't know…

This post has been edited by KenC: Jan 11 2017, 06:12 PM

I remembered the chain rubbing happened when I grind hard at low cadence. I can see the chainring sway from left to right with respect to the FD during the down stroke and right to left on the up stroke. At high cadence and light pedaling, the sway is lesser.
Did replace the BB and axle but shown no improvement.
Even suspected a poor chain-line, changed the axle length and even re-dish the rear wheel but still didn't solve the problem.
After the cheap RM20 triple crankset experience, I now strongly believe economical square-taper crankset can be as reliable as if not more than Hollowtech crankset. only if you can find one that is stiff and rigid.

This post has been edited by KenC: Jan 12 2017, 03:46 PM

Different rear end response to different saddle with difference… my favorite is a no name saddle which came with my minivelo. heavy padded with rubber absorber, 200km continuous is bearable. Others I tried started to be unbearable after 120km. but I did not try as many saddle as sifu2 here.
FYI, like many online articles said, if the saddle start getting uncomfortable after 50~60km ride, it will grow into a huge pain in your royal butt by the time you hit 100+km, so 5~20km test ride won't be reliable.
BUT if it gets uncomfortable with 5~20km this saddle is definitely not for you.
Just to spice up this saddle discussion. Its not just pain in your royal end that is unbearable, it will numb you precious heirloom with the wrong saddle shape, size and set-up.

This post has been edited by KenC: Jan 16 2017, 07:31 PM

I am curious too, would love to hear your review.

This post has been edited by KenC: Jan 17 2017, 02:57 AM

dieoledi !? hahahahaahahah

Is there such thing as silent hub? everywhere I go, I hear loud freehub clicking and it is very difficult to sneak up on anyone with all that loud clicking noise.

fast or slow is subjective, let's put it into numbers. 50km @20km/h average speed give a good 2.5 hour of non-stop pedalling. usually I will have 2~4 quick 5minute pit stops to catch my breath and re-hydrate. so the whole journey will take about ~3hr. not a realistic commuter distance unless I can do 25km/h (under 2.5hr) or faster.
Since late at work is no small matter, one much look at it seriously.
hence b4 you ask what size tyre, why not access your fitness and leg power. or consider ebike or kapcai.

This post has been edited by KenC: Jan 18 2017, 05:07 PM

less than 10km only ah… anything oso can la. even 12inch…

riding position is up to you, you can have it upright or supper aggressive there are no law against that

I enjoy Kenda Kwick roller sport 20"x1-3/8" (37-451) max 85psi. wire bead supple tires. economical too 1/2 the price of other supple tires. got it from Mike bicycle shop. 1 puncture after 1000km.

Most of the time you only need to just fold to go into your storage space… other times you don't even need to fold at all! I have a friend who never fold her Tern to get it into her car… it's a true story!

persona.

10km only 1/2 hour ride bah…

there you go, all from the same talent pool…
not much to discuss amongst fnhon, dahon, tern… etc. also, there are only a few bike which are not made in China… and most Malaysian look down on Malaysian made bike… so…
my advise for those who can't decide, just pick one at a price you can throw away in a heartbeat...
try it out, if it doesn't work out, just landfill it…

This post has been edited by KenC: Jan 21 2017, 02:40 AM

i prefer heavy bike… am looking at ways to double my bike weight. would appreciate all suggestions.

This post has been edited by KenC: Jan 21 2017, 03:00 AM

I lost 10kg through cycling, now that my legs are stronger (yet still not strong enuf to ride faster than 22km/h) with lesser load, it's getting less effective in loosing more fat… I am no racer, no desire for speed, instead I want harder workout on the bike…
I am serious about doubling my bike weight…
welding is too permanent and will need new paint job too… tried tie a solid 1.5ft long 2in solid steel rod on the bike frame but it sway too much, affect bike stability as well… may have to fabricate a sturdy holding bracket later…

This post has been edited by KenC: Jan 21 2017, 01:58 PM

Masstar, Garrion, LeRun, … any a few more

I am avoiding wearing body weight, I injured myself with this in my teenager days…

Currently, cycling is my regular cardio, still working my way towards HIIT, diet? ok la, I eat everything and anything except diet pills and supplements.

my area not that hilly, can't be doing that too often… 2~3 time a week around gce after dinner is convenient and environmentally friendly.