I've been wanting to try m43 since GF1 days but for one reason or another always ended up with something else.

Anyway, even back during dslr days, I've always kept a compact so GF7 is to replace the "compact" part.

Bye bye RX100

Still playing around with the camera's jpeg setting... found that long exposure NR must be left on or crap load of chroma noise appears even at ISO200.

P1000067 by vmwt, on Flickr

This post has been edited by sniper on the roof: Nov 12 2015, 01:45 AM

Not that expensive this 25mm f1.7 (seems to be on offer for us$199 from regular us$249) but the size though nearly 2 inches in height is still very compact and light. Wait for reviews 1st. Don't know when it will be available locally.


Congratz on your new toy! I am also using the 12-32 a black unit so tiny and powerful lens, it has an in-lens IS, surprisingly! Even its bigger brethren the 20mm doesn't have one. The 20mm mark II version looks nice but costs more and still performs the same. Old version can be had cheap too.

This post has been edited by bobds78: Nov 12 2015, 09:25 AM

Hi all. I bought a 2nd hand E-M1 recently and has been playing around with the HDR and bracketing function. When I tried to merge the photos for HDR, I always find some ghosting in the pics though they are static objects. So far I'm shooting handheld but always stabilized by leaning against something. (yet to decide which tripod to buy).

There is ghosting even when I leave the camera on a flat surface. I suspect there is in-camera vibration because I find the shutter "kicks" the camera quite substantially.
Any ideas?

Thanks.

Did you merge those bracketed photos on a computer? Or in-camera? My point is the in-camera software might not be as good as a stand-alone pc software.

Also, did you try HDR1 or HDR2 and see if it still get the same ghosting effects? I understand EM1 has the HDR1 & HDR2, both are preset options yes? Try turn off IS and put camera on tripod or static flat surface and see what happens? These are some tests for you to see what might have gone wrong. Often times, it is due to wrong settings/techniques.

Here is tip from an excerpt i picked in "Ask Olympus":

"It is recommended to always use Manual Focus when shooting HDR because autofocus might refocus the image from shot-to-shot and produce problems when combining the images for the final HDR image. Use a tripod and cable release to stabilize the camera."

This post has been edited by bobds78: Nov 12 2015, 10:04 AM

I didnt play with HDR or bracket at all but I heard OMD owner recommended to turn off IS if put on tripod etc, as IBIS still kick in. Also try use 2 sec delay to reduce vibration from camera press/release.

This post has been edited by Someonesim: Nov 12 2015, 10:19 AM

you gotta live with it

what i like to do with pana body is setting [Photo Style] either to "Standard" or "Natural", then [Contrast] and [Sharpness] remain "0", [Noise Reduction] reduced to max, [i.Dynamic] and [i.Resolution] set to "High", use center weight metering and +0.3ev when shooting

Try this tutorial?
http://www.snapby.me/blog/hdr-with-e-m1

Oly HDR & Panorama sucks right?

This post has been edited by BOTAK_WAI: Nov 12 2015, 10:20 AM

even old PEN with 2-axis IBIS also need turn off when mounting on tripod

Thanks. I used Photoshop. HDR 1&2 looks overdone to me, so I don't use them. I just use EV bracketing. Oh ya, I should try with IS off. Manual, ermmm... really have to learn that. And by shooting manual, I'll have to get a tripod.
I really feel that the shutter "kicks" too much for a mirrorless camera. I don't feel this "kick" with my old Nikon D40.

This post has been edited by samowong: Nov 12 2015, 10:31 AM

That's a good tip.
I was into HDR sometime back using the traditional method i.e. +/- 3ev bracketing technique and I get very good results, using tripod and delayed shutter release and turning off IS is a must to achieve max sharpness.



Bro, [Noise Reduction] reduced to max or PUSHED to max or you mean reduced to zero I pening liao

Both HDR from Oly and pana shucks! ha ha

This post has been edited by bobds78: Nov 12 2015, 10:35 AM

Try luminosity masking technique for HDR. You could consult mingyuyu.

sorry for causing confusion. iinm, pana default [Noise Reduction] setting is "0" right? reduce it will have negative integer right?

I might try your settings and see what comes out. Normally I just use all the defaulted settings and do some adjustments if needed on the pc. Occasionally i would turn on NR at night when ISO goes too high like 1600 or 3200.

[i.Dynamic] is something like oly's [Auto-Gradation] but pana's one seems smarter
[i.Resolution] is something increase sharpness, but also smarter ("Extended" is sharper than "High" )

[Auto ISO] & [i-ISO] where the former pumps higher ISO value to guarantee safety shutter speed while the latter try to keep ISO value lower to preserve image quality. But i feel not much difference pun...haha.

That's for the headsup. Tried i.resolution but seems oversharpened artifacts with even low.

Normal learning curve I suppose.

BOTAK_WAI I am looking for a wireless remote shutter release for my G6 and I remembered you bought one yes? Was it the RW221?

Actually mine one is wireless flash trigger with remote shutter function. I'm selling mine for some cash. Mine is Pixel Pawn TF-364.

This post has been edited by BOTAK_WAI: Nov 12 2015, 04:33 PM

i see.

btw, so far how do you think GF7 vs RX100?

Oh yeah yours is for the flash unit you gotten I see. The RW221 I mentioned above is also a Pixel brand unit. Seems this unit is cheaper and will work with almost all cameras provided with the right cable. The Panasonic uses the LC1 cable while Olympus uses the UC1 cable.


Obviously GF7 being micro 4/3 sensor and bigger should give you better IQ and dynamic range. Is that the case?

Abit too early to tell since I've got the RX100 for years and haven't really got a chance to bring the GF7 out yet.

More concerned with if the camera encourages me to go out and shoot.. this one need to wait until I get the 20mm and 9mm lenscap

The RX100 is somewhat losing its charms in this aspect ever since I got the Fuji. Realized that I was carrying it out less and less often.

This post has been edited by sniper on the roof: Nov 12 2015, 05:10 PM

Yup, RW221 definitely cheaper.
Yea, mine even come with 4 connecting cables.
This Pixel brand not bad la, just the transmission range isn't as far as claimed.

Look forward to see your Street Photography thread updated with your GF7 photos

I'm afraid you will be disappointed with the GF7 if compared to your Fuji?

Naw.... 2 different thing. I'm just hoping the girlfriend 7 can provide more motivation to go out shoot more.