HD 7970 is Tahiti, so is R9 280X.

R9 380X is more like R9 285 with more RAM, and more stream processors.

They are on Tonga chip.

Wow, 380X was just announced and you bought already.

Didn't know it already reached market.

Not exactly.

R9 280X CFX setup is just a bit faster than an R9 290X.

An R9 290X is about the performance of a GTX 970, and GTX 980 is quite ahead of the GTX 970.

The scary part is that the R9 280X CFX takes quite a chunk of power just to deliver something that's hovers (subjected to game engine) GTX 970 - GTX 980 range.

I feel that their drivers are IFFY - it it works fine then it's all good, if not then shit man what's happening.

I've had my share for both.

I currently have a bunch of AMD cards with me too, I can say that my confidence in their driver was bruised during the launch of the R9 300 series. Had some sleepless nights with it where some cards just refuse to work.

So far my experience with the following were OK

PowerColor / Sapphire R9 Fury X
PowerColor R9 390
PowerColor R9 380
Sapphire R9 390X

If I'm not mistaken, the Sapphire R9 390X was buggy (managed to benchmark before all hell breaks lose) while R9 390 was a no go.

eh no, that one was before Crimson.

I suspect the hiccups were more of a brand issue than driver itself.

My PowerColor R9 390 no problem, worked well but I have a friend who had problem with R7 370 recently, black screen.

I encountered black screen with AMD drivers before. I sold my Gigabyte R9 280X to a friend, he put on his machine and had new drivers installed (15.x i think) and all he got was black screen.

I ended up have to take his machine home, fiddle around and got it running with older driver.

Not TriX, it's Trixx.

Anyway they're referring to Crimson.

As long as you don't mix up Sapphire Tri-X as STRIX from ASUS.

That's now how it works.

Do read up this, explained clearly.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3990

If your PSU has not enough juice, it'll power down immediately.

Your PSU is able to power up the system easily BUT the concern about Vantec's ION PSU is that they're of low quality.

My last Vantec Ion2 PSU gave out burning smell after some stress.

Spend some RM 300 - 400 get a new PSU as soon as you can.

The site gives you very safe figure, exactly how I made my calculator last time (disabled it for a while).

Take this for example, the site recommends 650W for R9 390 setup, however if you actually test a system with R9 390 and run stress test like Furmark or games, it doesn't even reach 400W wall draw.

This means the system's actual draw (depending on efficiency of the PSU) is only around 360W if it's a 90% efficiency PSU.

So in reality even a good 500W PSU can run an R9 390.

This is exactly why Sapphire stated 500W PSU as minimum requirement for the HD 7970 (higher power draw than R9 390).
(link http://www.sapphiretech.com/productdetial....46F348&lang=eng )

Take another example, R9 295X2 - the recommendation is 1000W but did you know that even for my FX-9590 system with R9 295X2 it's so difficult to reach 700W wall draw despite loading both processor and GPU?

Yes but you're quoting old specs.

If what you said about rail dedicated to CPU and rail dedicated to OTHERS

There's a reason why that same article we're referring to says





Read up the details on this page http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/306437-2...estion-answered

Did you know that the average system on full load does not reach 50% capacity of a 500W PSU?

Take for example my rigs that I'm running now.

Intel i5-4670K Overclocked + AMD R9 Nano. Wall draw when gaming on Metro Last Light = <270W

With my 90% PSU that's about 243W power draw, ON PEAK. In gaming and other applications, the system does not run at peak all the time.




If your system can touch the "max power" from your PSU then it's extremely poorly configured.

A safe calculation is total CPU and GPU max power draw to be at around 80% max 12V delivery. Ideally your power draw's peak should not be touch 90% of the capacity.

You won't believe how many PSUs I've killed just by doing folding@home, in my life time I think I killed probably 10. I stress PSUs a lot, some by 90%. Besides folding@home I did cryptographic coin mining before too.

The good PSUs can really last, months on end 24/7 at some 80% - 90% stress no issue whatsoever.

Take a cheapo PSU and do the same, the fella would like a few weeks before giving way. I had a Vantec Ion2 that I put through such test that is start to give out burning smell after a week. I've had other cheaper PSU went flashbang on that.

Nowadays I run good / high quality PSUs from FSP, CM and various others, they're higher wattage, higher quality. No issues and I haven't killed any for quite a while. My CM V series 700 / 850 that were from Seasonic OEM is lasting forever. I couldn't kill them, sold them off and they're working fine on other people's rigs.

I'm not disagreeing with what you mentioned, it's just that that's old specs.

It was like that, nowadays dual-rail / single rail no issue. The problem with your earlier post was that many may have thought that having multi-rail is not a good thing.

You need to teach me how to do that.

I run everything furmark / prime 95 / folding@home on single system also so difficult to reach that figure.

I'll probably have to pump up more vcore and voltage for GPU.

How many 980 Ti do you have there?

New topic - How does one meddle with the Graphic Card setting with AMD Crimson?

I don't see any option like what I saw in AMD Overdrive, end up just using Sapphire TRIXX to get the job of overclocking done.

Ahh thanks. That's the one.

So many steps, so hidden.

ehh actually I did.

With that bolded part, I'm under the impression that you're making an issue out of a non-issue matter.

Furthermore the following part about "+12V2 for CPU only while +12V1 for everything else." while true, is not applicable these days, hence non-issue.

It's ok. Explained to you already why I responded to your post that way.

Happy new year.

Yes you can. They work on the same principles to transfer heat from source to heatsink.

That card max draw is 375W, actual running is far less than that.