Calculate the cooling load first. That will determine the HP required. If cooling load within the 1.5HP (12500-14500BTU/hr), use back 1.5HP. You can use 1HP if it's lower. Any higher, check the piping spec and see which higher HP model matches. But if the piping are meant for non inverter esp older refrigerant (R22), then change the piping to withstand higher pressure from R410a/R32 gas. Don't reuse esp if the older AC uses R22 gas. Safer option is to change the piping.

Yours landed or condo? Depends whether the current pipes are spec even for 1.75HP. What's the model of the older 1.5HP? If unsure, look for the model information either at the side or bottom of the blower unit. Sometime it will mention refrigerant whether R22 or R410a. If it's R22, better to change to thicker piping (0.81mm).

Landed easier to repipe so long as its mounted over the front where the sliding door, large windows should be compared to say in the living room wall over the TV cabinet. Recommend  AC drain use a bigger pipe diameter like 19mm (3/4").

AC Piping separate unless the shop very generous. But if you're keen to use inverter, get good piping like Inaba Denko Paircoil. May cost a bit higher but in the end, your AC operates efficiently.

BTW, did you include dining area if it's adjoined to your living room either contiguous or split level? If not, include it in your calculation or at least upsize cooling load by 20-30%.

How did the MHI non inverter ion perform? Any insights to share on its usage?

Ok, back track. So this is for master bed room and landed dwelling. Is the roof insulated? Otherwise tweak the heat load factor and recalculate cooling load if you haven't taken it into account.

Piping needs to be specified with your installer so that he can get it for you. If your in KL, just google the brand and the sellers are online.

I use MHI ion inverter with 3D air cool feature. They are quite good.

Yup, using the MHI SRK10YLS for 2 years now with 12/365 usage. This is by far the lowest consumption for all inverter models, rated 12xxkWh/year. Have another ME MSY-GJ10VA installed as well rated 14xxkWh/year. I prefer the MHI over ME for the greater functionality and higher C/P.

it is best to choose an inverter type air conditioner as it can precisely control compressor rotational speed according to cooling requirements. for example when the a/c turned on the compressor rotates at highest speed to provide quick cooling to desired temperature setting, upon reaching temperature set point at remote, the compressor rotation gradually ramps down and uses less power, hence saves electrical power. with the compressor able to ramps down its rotational speed, there is no need for the compressor to be stopped, the room temperature can maintain as the remote control set point. the non inverter a/c have fixed compressor rotation, thus the compressor need to cycle on and off resulting large temperature variation. eg inverter: 24 degc set point, indoor blow 24 degc air. non inverter; indoor blow 22 degc air when compressor on and blow 26 degc air when compressor off, averaged 24 degc. with this you will suddenly feel the air become too cold when the compressor is on and feel warm when the compressor is off. depend on room temperature, room heat insulation and remote control setpoint, the non inverter a/c may cycle on and off for longer or shorter time span to maintain temperature set point. cyclic compressor on and off will make our body feel uncomfortable, set too low temperature for the compressor to always stay on can make the room too dry. more advantage to have inverter a/c than a non inverter a/c. except price point. most inverter a/c have built-in diagnostic features which pin point which part is faulty, so no guessing work when troubleshooting.

most malaysian household tend to pick york, daikin, acson, sharp and panasonic for their air conditioner. here i compare specification across these brands. 1.0hp standard inverter air conditioner.

york ywm5j10aas
rated cooling capacity: 10000 btu/hr
rated power: 795 watt
rated current: 3.46 ampere
rated eer: 12.58 btu/hr/watt
cooling capacity range: 3100 ~ 11900 btu/hr
power range: 300 ~ 1210 watt
max indoor airflow: 295 cfm
max indoor airflow noise: 34 db
price including installation: rm 1440 lazada

daikin ftk10qv1l
rated cooling capacity: 9500 btu/hr
rated power: 780 watt
rated current: 3.5 ampere
rated eer: 12.18 btu/hr/watt
cooling capacity range: 4400 ~ 10200 btu/hr
power range: 280 ~ 990 watt
max indoor airflow: 345 cfm
max indoor airflow noise: 40 db
price including installation: rm 1400 lazada

acson a5wmy10s
rated cooling capacity: 9100 btu/hr
rated power: 780 watt
rated current: 3.49 ampere
rated eer: 11.67 btu/hr/watt
cooling capacity range: 4400 ~ 10200 btu/hr
power range: 280 ~ 990 watt
max indoor airflow: 378 cfm
max indoor noise: 41 db
price including installation: rm 1440 lazada

sharp ahx9ued
rated cooling capacity: 9700 btu/hr
rated power: 890 watt
rated current: 5.3 ampere
rated eer: 10.9 btu/hr/watt
cooling capacity range: 3070 ~ 10600 btu/hr
power range: no data
max indoor airflow: 346 cfm
max indoor noise: no data
price including installation: rm 1300 lazada

panasonic csps9tkh1
rated cooling capacity: 9550 btu/hr
rated power: 780 watt
rated current: 3.7 ampere
rated eer: 12.24 btu/hr/watt
cooling capacity range: 2860 ~ 10200 btu/hr
power range: 225 ~ 960 watt
max indoor airflow: 320 cfm
max indoor noise: 38 db
price including installation: rm 1440 lazada

Duplicate post

That Daiso filter is crazy good, after 3 months usage my inside filter is still clean and the fans are in clean state. Usually within 3 months, my filters all clogged up and the blower starts to accumulate. About 6 months then I need to clean the blower already else no wind.

Can ask your neighbourhood electrical store or find a few online store to put listing.. those dealers can order as necessary 1.