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Aircon Discussion V3, Home Appliance
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jio
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 Mar 1 2024, 11:17 PM
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QUOTE(voscar @ Mar 1 2024, 10:49 PM) Already seen people complaining this same thing at Mitsubishi Electric Malaysia Facebook previously, now they have removed those negative comments. Sorry to say your model is already legacy outdated, thus you don't have this hard-coded feature. You may come Malaysia to purchase Mitsubishi Mr. Slim series for "tech refresh" for keeping up with real world experience, hahaha This darn feature is really annoying. I fed up and after removing the blower fan for cleaning, I didn't bother installing the darn horizontal vane louvre. |
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jio
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Apr 17 2024, 08:57 PM
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QUOTE(Created On 21/1/2021 @ Apr 17 2024, 05:18 PM) Any expert here can tell anything wrong with the wiring? The a/c technician came to clean my a/c today and said my wiring is messed up. But the original installer said there was nothing wrong. I'm not sure who to trust anymore. Your inverter aircond outdoor unit requires 3 power (L/N/E) + 1 signal wires. Since you only had 3 wires to the outdoor unit, the installer take a shortcut and use the earth wire as the signal wire. It basically rely on the coil as the ground. If the coil had to be disconnected by technician, it may cause shock if there is shorting (usually only will happen when multiple things went wrong at same time). When this do happen, test pen will light up when touching the outdoor unit body & maybe some spark during disconnection of the coil. Maybe rare but do happen if you unlucky enough. |
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jio
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Apr 20 2024, 10:50 AM
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If you are bothered by the non-inverter outdoor unit starting but not when it's already running usually it means the compressor or fan can't ramp its speed fast enough thus giving it enough time to resonate much louder. Change the bad capacitors and use rubber mounting to further reduce the vibration. Sometimes it is outer body panel that is vibrating. The compressor/fan can fail too but you will probably be bothered by it even when it is already running.
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jio
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May 4 2024, 03:24 PM
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QUOTE(nles @ Apr 30 2024, 12:08 AM) Hi guys, wanna check do you all always turn the main switch of your cassette aircon off? My aircon guy told me that those 32A switch is not durable, he recommend me to have it directly to the circuit breaker and just leave it on. He also said for cassette aircon I should not cut the power to the aircon immediately after I turn off the aircon because the water pump need to pump out the water, only can turn off the main switch after 10-20min. If the switch is near the circuit breaker, then it's fine to skip the switch and just use 2P/4P MCB/MCCB (switched neutral), although I still recommend using switch with neon indicator for residential use as per MS1979. You only switch off the power only when it won't be used for extended period of time. All fixed appliance circuits should have way to isolate & cut off the power including the neutral for maintenance and stop RCCB tripping due to faults. If you are using 1P/3P circuit breaker for the aircon, just keep the switch but no need to turn it off everytime. QUOTE MS1979:2015
4.6.13 COP 32, Air conditioner, electric oven or similar (hereinafter refer as high-current
using equipment circuit
Every high-current using equipment circuit shall be supplied by a dedicated power circuit which
shall not be shared by any other purpose. This power circuit shall have an appropriately sized
uninformed-user double pole switch/isolator with illuminated status indicator such as neon
indicating light installed in a prominently visible location in the vicinity of the
wet-equipment for switching and isolation. There shall be an appropriately sized maintenance
isolator with appropriate IP rating, for maintenance isolation purpose, installed in a location
visible and accessible to the certified maintenance electrician and shall not be more than 3 m
from electrical coupling terminal on the high-current equipment to facilitate the
connection/disconnection of the power circuit to the high-current equipment and for isolation of
the high-current equipment during maintenance.
There shall be no joint or similar in this dedicated power circuit. |
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jio
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May 20 2024, 01:08 AM
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You can try home automation with smart temp/humidity monitor and smart IR blaster. Use it to change the aircon mode when the humidity exceed or drop below certain level. That's what I use when I stay at hometown.
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jio
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Aug 13 2024, 11:35 PM
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QUOTE(Momo33 @ Aug 13 2024, 02:05 PM) and if its your own house then better to instal a surge SPD type 2 to protect the whole house. you can get good ones from 50 rm to 100 . https://shopee.com.my/Lightning-Protection-...1f-ff17ca883274Please do not simply buy any SPD online from oversea if you don't know what you're doing. Get it from local seller instead as they are selling the type that are suitable for use in Msia residential use. We are using TT earthing for residential that may not have low enough resistance for L-PE SPD built-in thermal protection to even work (CT1 & full mode SPD). That's why we can only use those L-N SPD (CT2). You'll see L & PE pole on top & N at bottom of the SPD. And always use a dedicated MCB with switched neutral (2P for single phase & 4P for 3 phase) for the SPD so that you can safely disconnect it when needed. Do not simply rely on the main MCB/MCCB or the built-in thermal protection. If you electricity supply had frequent brownout (voltage drop & light flickering) , then I strongly recommend using SPD as overvoltage surges will also happen way way more than frequent than lightning could be. |
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jio
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Aug 14 2024, 10:36 AM
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QUOTE(Momo33 @ Aug 14 2024, 09:06 AM) yes we use TT system . and some good essential guide . the N at the bottom of the SPD is not a fact . It depends on the spd manufacturer design . some manufacturer and even local brand/ sellers you cant even find spec data , and most never mention TT . if you cannot find the spec data on the advert I will say dont buy . and i feel many sellers are selling fakes . and i think i have not seen a SIRIM approved SPD on shopee etc... i did check hager MY site and they do have all the relevant data . its a jungle out there ! Let me rephrase it. For our residential use with TT earthing, you should only use L-N & N-E SPD. You should not use L-E SPD. Unless it is monoblock SPD, you can easily identify the connection type based on the what pole is on the opposing side of L (Edit: for cheapo brand that won't spend extra for internal routing. Most of China oem design is such). You can check local brand such as maxguard and duval for example. Other brand may even allow to to swap N with E to change the connection type from CT1 to CT2. Just Google SPD CT2 and if you have access, refer to IEC 60364-5-53. SPD can a be safety hazard when failed if installed improperly. Not everything are suitable for general residential use, let alone installed by non-professional. This post has been edited by jio: Aug 14 2024, 11:44 AM |
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