You can either just leave it (the other switch will still have control)
Or you can remove the switch and connect one of the terminal together, the other one just tape and leave it.

So I simply copy some photo from google and edit, let's say you remove switch 1 and tape L2 while permanently connect com with L1 wire. This means that L2 wires does not function. On Switch 2, you will need a test pen to identified L1 or L2, basically the one with Live will be L1 and then you connect your RF smart switch for L1 and Com.


2 Gang 1 Way should not affect your operation, just that 1 of the gang is not connected. The below example show 3 gang 1 way, noticed that 2 of the lamp is not operational. Basically number of gang means output. So it is a single input, multiple output control switch. As you only need 1 control switch, so the other one will be idle

Didn't find any switch but maybe you can consider DIN rail energy meter since appliances that need 20A (water heater, oven, air-cond) usually is non looping and usually directly connect to the junction box.

If you need to support high current, there is a price to pay
It is not a circuit breaker. It is a smart power meter
https://shopee.com.my/%E2%98%85MK-90-250V-W...1&stm_referrer=

When you run the test using test pen, both switch 1 and switch 2 you already open up and not connected? seems to me that is not the case and your 2 way switch is connected differently then the diagram I provided in the earlier post

This is the other way your switch maybe connected and if I assume you did not disconnect both switch, your switch may have 2 live which is from com from the other switch and L1 as you observed in the diagram below:



In this circuitry, you may not be able to keep both switch to be functioning (unless you are able to make a connection from switch 1 to switch 2). The best option is to remove one of the switch, as there are identical, you get to choose which 1 you want to turn to smart switch.

To identified Live is easy, under the condition of both switch fully open and no wires connect. your test pen can tell which is live. Then labelled it.
To identify the neutral, connect the live to one of the wires, if your light switches on, then it is the neutral and this automatically make the 3rd wire com.

Once you identify this, the switch you are not using, tape all the wires and leave it.
For the switch to be turn to smart switch, just ignored the com and connect the live and neutral accordingly.

The seller is not honest. The switch required neutral, by connecting a capacitor to the load, you are basically bypassing the switch and it may not guarantee to work. Does the seller advice on capacitance required.

Just change it to a model without neutral is a better way

Yes, totally agreed on this.
For those that modified neutral requiring switch to bypass by capacitor. You need to ensure the correct capacitance.
As AC switch at 50Hz, the connection and wiring should be solder, a loose connection will kill your device in the long run.

PS: IN reality, non neutral switch also use capacitor to bypass (some advance model have even complicated circuitry to stabilize the power)... but as the whole thing is integrated and solder as 1 piece, it is better and last longer

when you mean connect to the light... do you connect the neutral or just leave it.
If you connect the neutral directly... I think it will be on always on... your light will always be on.

If you leave the neutral out, my guess is that the switch operate as normal switch, no smart function as there is no power.

For those, they provide capacitor which is to be install on the light itself or the load. Not at the switch.



The video link is
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3PprtrPHPg

Hmm... I don't understand why you cannot put LED tube light as L1? Just switch the wires of these 2 at the switch socket for the fluorescent light and LED tube light will do. Is the arrangement of the switch that important?

For the capacitor, it is best install on LED tube light, the exhaust may or may not work, there is no guarantee as it is a motor.

You never take photo or identified the wires when you disconnected them?
Oh.... you are going to waste a lot of time on this.

Ideally, you should have 4 wires. 1 lives and 3 loads (assuming it is a 3 gang switch). As for the last wire, it maybe ground, or it maybe looping for lives....

So... first identify the Live with test pen.
Next, identify your loads 1 by 1....just connect the live to the load and see which of them turned on...
Finally, the wire that when you connect, if your house electricity trip, then it is ground.
Else, it is live looping. (I think, maybe others sifu can confirm) If you leave this wire out, one of your switch else where will not have power (or previously you mention this is a 2 way switch? then this maybe the com to the other switch)

Anyway have fun doing try and error and make sure to be safe. Have another people around you and wear protective gears.

Yup... it is very common and if it is for lighting, there is not much issue with such looping.
Imagine if we have to have each switch run to the junction switch box... Your house switch box will need to accommodate up to 50 to 100 MCB

What is the purpose of the motion sensors... to turn on light? Where will the light be installed? Indoor or outdoor? How will it interface with your system, through WIFI (smart) or directly connected to the light?

In my neighborhood, one of my neighbor uses this. It seems quite reliable. At night, when I walk pass, the light turns on immediately

https://shopee.com.my/PHILIPS-MOTION-SENSOR...AiABEgLUpPD_BwE

I employed different air cond cleaning service before, some did not dismount the indoor unit, but some will... Maybe depends on the "dirtiness" of the unit.For the refilling of the gas, it is done when they install back the indoor unit, then they will start the air-cond and check the pressure and also if the air cond is cold, if there is a need to refill, they can refill through the check gauge...

Great you are a DIY-er.

But once every 1 to 2 years, it is better to employ professional to check the aircond.
Mainly they will check the compressor current draw to determine the state of the compressor motor as well as the capacitors, the pressure of the gas... and finally cleaning (but I think this part you handle yourself far better)

There is pro and cons on dismounting the indoor unit for cleaning.

The pro is that by dismounting it to wash under running water and soap, the coils can be clean far better. The black stuff is probably dust+water+oil that accumulate overtimes.

But the down side is that the technician need to be professional, the circuits and blower motor need to be protected so that it does not get wet.

When installing it back, the connection needs to be reconnected back securely both the electrical and also the coolant piping.

You are the man

Yes... if you know what you are doing, or at least learnt about it, then you can service it by yourself.
But for general public, I would advise against it as electrical appliances servicing poses certain danger. For example, short circuit, fire, electrocute, height... etc.

Use a test pen to confirmed that both L1A and L1BC is live... your next question is how to turn it into a smart switch without neutral?

Wonder how it gets power without neutral or capacitor? Battery operated?