Hi all

Just to show my recent Dark Freedom to prove I existed.

Not fully finished anyway...

Hi all

Another finished kit MG Full Armor Dark Red Frame, Excalibur in progress...

Don't be so happy 1st ask seller through the chat window, they might not have all the parts you need.

I have asked a few and turns out not all they have.

No need agent, taobao also provide 3rd party courier with days free warehouse service, I am using 4px.

try look into international delivery options

Just finished my colleague RG Exia, added slight customization. Just wanted to share to you all...


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tactical arms, caletvwlch, blue, gold, green, amatsu, perfect gold frame, mirage....

not to mention transparent, chrome version. bandai oh bandai way to go...

poor premium bandai kit collectors...

actually the best is normal decals as they dont have stickers edge like water decals do, only downside to normal decals is the application.

when you scratch that much on your gunpla fearing to scratch them its like hell on earth...

as for water decals you dont have that problem plus you can use tamiya mark softer to make the sticker like edges less obvious.

still if apply on certain gunpla color you will still notice you water decal edges on certain angle.

another advantages on water decals is that i heard you can buy transparent water decals and print your own design, detail wise is depends on your printer resolution...

hehe if you look close enough no matter how hard you pressed it after softer the water decals still shown when there lighting for it to reflect light.

glossy surface will not as apparent but when in metallic matt surface you will see, still only if you look close enough... (I'm kinda perfectionist kind of guy)

my msg big sword...

you have to ensure to do it right the 1st place, normal way would be nip it with normal nippers on the runner side (nipper like the electronics nippers).

then nip off the runners using finer gunpla nippers (as the have sharper and thinner blade edge)

then remove the excessive (if any) using art knife

if there's still nub and white marks, sand it orderly accroding to sand paper grade 400,600,800,1000,1500,2000,2500 (this will depends on preferences normally i only use 800 and straight 2000, but this tends to leave scratch marks if not properly done)

if still there are noticeable marks, try use tamiya polishes and polish it (coarse, fine, and finish polish) or you can use conventional nail polisher sponge

if try all these i believe should solve you issue, only last resort you use paint

got mine 3M 3200 N95 with 25pcs filter for 65rmb exclude shipping cost, kinda low price if you do the math

tried it and most of the paint residue is filtered judging from the smell and filter color change.

Got it, but i thought thats for heavy duty painting purposes plus i only use air brush not can spray and i have suction fan and good air ventilation should be enough

also i saw most of the hobby shop selling lower grade than mine should be ok

pricey way to remove white marks would be using tamiya polish wax but can suggest using nail polish sponge on the rough side and polish until shiny on the finer side

if over sanding is an issue can try use finer grade longer sanding time, do check from time to time by rubbing with finger and check it under light to ensure surface is not over sanding... i use 2000 and above to remove white marks not always successful because nipping process is critical...

a bit waste on the fine grade sanding paper though...

totally agreed, unless you can afford god hand spn-120 or better sen-115, else sanding it off would be advisable...

heard WAVE HT281 is super convenient, wait until all my sand paper stock finishes then will buy 1 and try...

Owning a god hand can just straight cut it without leaving runner space and using wave file can remove whatever marks that god hand left off.

Anyway have you use god hand before?

Got my airbrush set from china taobao for rm100 something been using it nearly a year with 5 painted kits so far still kickin

Lol practically you still need file cause there's still some little stress mark to remove. Some just skip it because it's too small to notice...

Well totally depends on ones range of involvement, if you spend 2 to 3 month per kit with hg or mg may be skip it.

Else if you do 1 kit per month with mg pg range, these tools save you tons of time for you to focus on painting.

Hence the tag for these tools usually proffessional grade.

Also I totally agree on overprice on god hand due to limited production and seller tends to goreng the price...

Personally I would recommend use normal cutter to cut with 2mm spaced runners and use tamiya nipper to cut it off and use wave file to finish the job if you can afford one.

Sandpaper can do the same but messier, I used to go economical to just buy sand paper but later change to file stones but now seriously considering wave file.

Since I have bought so much of sandpaper and stone I hatta finish them 1st...

Lol if you see any "litt tak" name around places that sells gunpla don't expect it will be cheap. They're the official seller that wants their mark up to be standard.

You can only get cheap from seller get their gunpla from japan.