Each and every model of other car maker will also have 1 or 2 unit of lemon. I would like to make a guess on your friend's SV

1) Change fuel pump due to hard to start car after engine got hot. Often stranded at car park for 1/2 hour before the car can start. SC suggest to change fuel pump.
2) After change of fuel pump, still having trouble to start car. Everytime after lunch go back carpark wanna start car, it just wont start! Again, SC in view of already changed fuel pump, might as well change starter.
3) After all effort, there's nothing much can be done except change the air filter box. I don't see the relation of whether the car can start or not, may be during service SC technician accidentally break it, had to replace 1.

Guess what? After change of fuel pump, starter and the bloody air box, your friend still having trouble to start the engine after lunch hour/long distance drive Ask your friend whether he/she got come lurk around LYN GaGa thread. If not, better start now. We're the bunch who bought the same lemon car with the same lemon juice at the same amount of lemon trouble. The hard to crank start trouble is already discussed and explained many times due to injector overflow which happened quite often to hi-power output(in comparison with cubic capacity displacement) engines, also can caused by TDC Sensor(Top Dead Centre) which the engine management need to find the firing sequence by reading the crankshaft position that indicate when the #1 piston is reaching the ceiling of the combustion chamber, for initiating the firing sequence of your separberak. Is it bad? Yes it is. Is it the engine design defect? No not really. Most of the time is caused by local weather/bad fuel quality/bad habits of driver(if you remember your grandfather always like to pump the accelerator before switch off engine, where they explain this will charge up the battery abit to get ready for the next start up, which totally not required by new generation engines because the alternator charging is limited by electronic cut out).

So, all these lemon problems are all from the same lemon car with some basic lemon expertise, we can make lemonade a joyful drink. WTFisLYN please suggest your friend to join our TT and come lurk here more often. If any problem he/she face, do come over and use the search function. We do care about the car and we know the car characteristic like the back of our hand. Please buy with confident and enjoy the car.

Each and every model of other car maker will also have 1 or 2 unit of lemon. I would like to make a guess on your friend's SV

1) Change fuel pump due to hard to start car after engine got hot. Often stranded at car park for 1/2 hour before the car can start. SC suggest to change fuel pump.
2) After change of fuel pump, still having trouble to start car. Everytime after lunch go back carpark wanna start car, it just wont start! Again, SC in view of already changed fuel pump, might as well change starter.
3) After all effort, there's nothing much can be done except change the air filter box. I don't see the relation of whether the car can start or not, may be during service SC technician accidentally break it, had to replace 1.

Guess what? After change of fuel pump, starter and the bloody air box, your friend still having trouble to start the engine after lunch hour/long distance drive Ask your friend whether he/she got come lurk around LYN GaGa thread. If not, better start now. We're the bunch who bought the same lemon car with the same lemon juice at the same amount of lemon trouble. The hard to crank start trouble is already discussed and explained many times due to injector overflow which happened quite often to hi-power output(in comparison with cubic capacity displacement) engines, also can caused by TDC Sensor(Top Dead Centre) which the engine management need to find the firing sequence by reading the crankshaft position that indicate when the #1 piston is reaching the ceiling of the combustion chamber, for initiating the firing sequence of your separberak. Is it bad? Yes it is. Is it the engine design defect? No not really. Most of the time is caused by local weather/bad fuel quality/bad habits of driver(if you remember your grandfather always like to pump the accelerator before switch off engine, where they explain this will charge up the battery abit to get ready for the next start up, which totally not required by new generation engines because the alternator charging is limited by electronic cut out).

So, all these lemon problems are all from the same lemon car with some basic lemon expertise, we can make lemonade a joyful drink. WTFisLYN please suggest your friend to join our TT and come lurk here more often. If any problem he/she face, do come over and use the search function. We do care about the car and we know the car characteristic like the back of our hand. Please buy with confident and enjoy the car.

Well put David, what you say is quite a reality.
Years ago in my car industry days I was told of a chap whose engine was smoking excessively, so the workshop decided to fit a replacement engine, after that was fitted they found the auto transmission was no longer operating properly so they replaced that too. Then after much head scratching it was determined the real fault was a failed diaphragm in the vacuum modulator for the transmission, so the customer ended up copping a $3000+ bill over a $30 part, and the real tale was kept from him.
I have personally found a bad wire on a friend's fuel cut-off solenoid on his carburettor that a year earlier had cost him a fortune when a mechanic  failed to diagnose it and did the simple thing by sending it off for a unneeded rebuild, jiggling the wire was all it took to decide the problem but remember tradesmen do tend to be better at lifting heavy things and smoking than most other pursuits.
I like to do all my own work.

Lessons to be learned, for those sagarians out there with problem, do consult onestop centre saga blm flx club before doing anything.

First of all, it is confirmed that your friend got chopped by the shop. Battery itself covered by warranty 18 months. Stranded by the road side, had it tow to your trustworthy mechanic, better yet back to Plotong. If your friend refused to start reading here, no 1 can ever help him/her. I rest my case here and do not know how to teach your friend not to be chopped.

Also owner has asked me whether the mechanic in is a CONMAN or not.


AIR FILTER BOX - RM 200 + RM 50 LABOUR

ORIGINAL PROTON FUEL PUMP WITH NO WARRANTY - RM 800 + RM 9 LABOUR

RECOND STARTER - RM 250 + RM 49 LABOUR

1) Air box indeed is around that price range. But, why would you change it? I still can't brain it.

2) How does fuel pump not fall under warranty? Unless your friend never service in Plotong at all. Can be settled within RM500

3) I still do not believe the starter can die just like that. Yes a recon unit is around that price range at RM250.

Ayam aware now Will inform all the fellow insurer to take note on a Plotong GaGa came to add windscreen coverage which last year doesn't have

All Saga FLX variants price have been updated.
With the introduction of GST, most part prices drop (10% sales tax previously).

Except for Saga FLX SV, which will be included shortly in the first page, everything else remained the same link.

Quite a magical looking improvement, it claims to adjust timing to an optimum value, I would think any car maker would already have that programmed fairly correctly in conjunction with the knock sensor.
I can't help but feel a test of this type could be fairly easily fudged by running an ultra low octane blend for the stock run, and then using a dose steroid boosted super octane stuff for the after result.
Winding back the calibration knob on the machine would help too.

Much of it indeed goes right over my head but it's not important.
I do get what the lass in the video was saying about things, my wife who's Philippine (married nearly two years now after my becoming widowed, she's my age so it's decent) talks of opening light switches, so the quirks are somewhat familiar to me.

manyak bad luck today. want start car and go out, suddenly car cannot start. crank crank until cvt light will pop out every time crank more than 4 seconds.
ingat battery hal, try jumpstart same shit. call proton we care, say need tow to service center. diu.
luckily call kurnia, they send one mechanic come and help. again crank and crank and crank nearly 30 minutes, den only start.
say probable cause is cause car stationary few days didnt start, hence black oil naik up not sufficient to the lifter to allow complete cycle to crank and start.
also maybe also because since few days didnt start, black oil all bawah, 10w30 much thinner so want crank time also not enuff go up.
     
at the end of the day all is settled. belanja mechanic cigarettes.   

If engine oil has to do with setating an injin, then Quazacolt ady hailut.com.my coz that sohem is using 0W20 I'm saying, nowadays these xin kar lan so xin kar lan to the max. When you have cranking sound yet the car aint start, that is never the cause of lack of engine oil. When your car has no engine oil, it will still start regardless

Honda la.

Honda Brio rebadge.

I'd say white is as good a term as any, in these parts the media use a politically correct term that I refuse to use for it.
As far as I know I have Irish, Scottish and very likely some Pommy heritage, the Irish part was given a compulsory free trip to Aussie land 200 years ago, he hated the place that much that when he was free to return he instead chose to bring his wife and children here too.
Fear not about me I do keep a weblog at My Weblog and any posting that I appear in will show that I'm in no way to be envied.
I found this to be about the only active forum for the FLX, and I do like to share knowledge.

Do you think a Malaysian expat would buy a Proton in OZ?

English, we have our language quirks too.

Have replied you previously

If there's a cranking sound, meaning engine component is moving. Getting the car start is never the problem of engine oil. There will be a point that when the engine is too damn dry, the piston jammed on the engine block, this way no doubt is caused by engine oil. However, if engine oil causing the jammed of piston, I'm sorry to tell you there will be no cranking sound AT ALL. I've tried to crank a jammed engine at chopshop where the engine being left without engine oil for too damn long. When I short the started, there's no cranking sound but all the electricity cut off from the fuse box. All I can hear was relay sound, CLICK but that's it.

Just for your information, if the engine was jammed by no engine oil, 1 can never start back the engine unless open up the whole thing give it an overhaul.

My reply to you previously has already answered. It has to be the few known issue of petrol overflow, TDC misaligned and or fuel pump/fuel line/fuel filter inefficiency. When there's a cranking sound, it has never to do with engine oil regardless. Have you ever wonder why those people when the car aint start, the 1st thing they do is always open bonnet, check on engine oil? I mean, if the dipstick really show the engine is dry, can add engine oil make the car start back? I don't know, I leave it to you what and who to trust.

Thanks David they do appear the same, including the widening on the lower hose.
Daisy was quite old already when I bought her so I'll likely do a coolant change long before it's due and may buy pretty new hoses for the job. Pity I've only seen blue and red thus far.