Nice discussion...seems like we on the topic of heat...
I've removed my heat wrap due to the foil was old and didn't have new one to put it back one. My OBD2 device kaput already so I can't get any temp reading after removed. I also have DIY wrap my exhaust header previously and this really made the engine bay a lot cooler it is obvious from the recent track day I took part in SIC. Before that without exhaust wrap when I pop the hood I can feel the heat just whoosh up in my face..even my friend who drive a persona commented that my engine bay didn't felt hot compare to his.
If we want to cool down the intake air there's another way which is to put a sprayer motor and a fine most nozzle drill and tap it into the air intake ram. Just make a switch that can make it spray a very fine must of about 1sec...this is what I had in mind just like IC sprayer
This post has been edited by TitanRev: Dec 24 2014, 09:03 AM
dageatdzul I would like to discuss with you about oil cooler because I have plan on using it but most on the market are all without thermostat sandwich plate. The only companies that made the plate with a thermostat is either, Greddy, Earl's, Mocal or Mishimoto which they are priced quite high. I like particularly the inline thermostat from mishimoto because I can get a normal sandwich plate while others I need to get specific model (M. Evolution)
Since you have been using oil cooler. Does it take longer to warm up the engine oil since the oil will flow through the cooler once the pump starts working. If I have a thermostat I can control the flow to the cooler at specific temperature and this would be ideal for me and do you get much pressure drop after adding oil cooler as the route for the oil to circulate is longer. I'm looking for a 10 or 8 row cooler.
i'm in similar dilemma with you as well and the cost/risk involved in adding oil cooler is what putting me on hold at the moment.
For me, I really prefer to have a thermostat but will see what Syed's opinion. For me, I'm not going with a big sizing oil cooler a 8-10 row is enough since our car is not that big in power or CC to begin with. If I can get to know the original oil pressure than can know what hose sizes to use to retain the similar pressure.
An oil cooler is on my wishlist as well. But i dont need to be so technical. Because I normally give my a car a few minutes to warm up before I drive.
So the oil temperature will not be so much of an issue for me.
No it's not that simple. Oil temp warming up time and coolant warming up time is different. If your oil starts to circulate through the cooler even at low temp the heat loss will be fast and it will takes longer time to get the heat up to optimum even you put the car in idle. Not to mention, on start/stop drive your oil will cool down too much.
Just to share, even you have warm up your water temp to optimum does not mean your oil temp is at optimum hence even with your coolant temp up it's not good to whack the car immediately.
none thermo is more suited to be used on racing but I would like to hear more opinion
Of course, you are the technical guru. To fix an on off switch will be very expensive i believe. But for you could be worth the money as you look deep into all the technical details.
Ayam more layman... want something to cool down the oil temperature. Let it warm upfirst b4 drivinng would be my solution.
The thermostat is self controlled and no need to have any external source of power to make it work. It's like your car's coolant thermostat. It is preset to open at a certain set temp 70, 80 or 93. The thermostat is built into the sandwich plate. It act as a bypass valve so when the temp is not reach it will circulate the oil in the engine and not going into the oil cooler.
Another more cheaper solution to control the cooling of the oil is to block off half of the oil cooler fin so that you limit the amount of cooling air to pass through the cooler.
I'm not the guru la, still learning and sharing knowledge with guys here. I also prefer to DIY a lot to save on cost. Seldom let ppl fix or install. Fixing on/off switch is not that complicated. You just need a relay 4 prong and you can DIY that's all.
This post has been edited by TitanRev: Dec 27 2014, 03:09 PM
U own EBO in Japorn lastaim, you got oil pressure gauge inda kar mar. U can see even with low visco oil in the winter hor, the oil pressure doesn't get lost as long there's no leak. On the other hand, the oil temperature will still continue to rise as per no oil cooler module. With it, on a speeding environment you able to bring down the temperature nia. Otherwise, on idling there won't be much different, probably 1'C or 2'C nia There are believe that a huge oil cooler will made the oil circulation lose pressure nia, but never heard of adding a cooler made the oil too cold My opinion only lar. Welcome if anyone wanna challen, coz I don't even hold a ground here as I haven't get 1 cooler to my car other than last time when I was dealing with rotary engines Basically with or without, I'm still start and drive gently from 30seconds to a minute, after got out from housing area straight away gone wild liao
On winter time if only idling the oil temp is a bit higher than on summer. But it goes back to normal after a few boost. Mine was a HKS type s 15row. Thermo open at 70c +-3c. Fully open at 80c +-3c
I saw some higher Hp Evo in Japan. they run twin cooler in series but they have upgrade their oil pump. But putting oil cooler also need consider the size of the core. It's not the biggest is the best. Also I found that the size of the hose if too small will restrict the flow.
Hence I was saying, find a single core minimum row just to be sure my oil didn't get overheated during high speed cruising. It certainly wouldn't affect the warm up schedule by much, but oil can only be boiled once(especially on track event) So, finding a thermostat is what you want, by all means
Ah...Ok now I get the whole picture...key is the core if using in Malaysia climate.
Reminds me that I should make an effort to paint Daisy's rocker cover and pretty her up. A clear timing belt cover would also be nice if I could ever locate one.
Your engine the dip stick Izit extend until the top part of the engine or lower? Here in Malaysia blm and flx is having different dipstick length hence the clear timing belt cover for persona can only fit BLM, FL and not FLX. You check yours 1st if it fits I can try to find one for you.
It's been awhile since I visited your engine bay. So many changes Things I noticed:
1) Octopus heat wrapped 2) Proper oil catch can 3) Intake hose changed to SUMCO? 4) Extra sticker on ULAR bar 5) Aircon conduit Insuflex wrapped 6) BLATZ radiator cap 7) More dust on the radiator fan cover 8) Bling² Rtree oil cap(which was already there since repainting the cover)
Hahaha....1 is done few months back...the others been quite a while in the engine bay but I just didn't open to show....malu....
Part 2 of my ZTH Sunday Sepang feature the only Saga FLX 1.3 Manual in Sepang so fast that i can't chase lol! davidke20
part 1 later due to certain technical difficulties lol
so ya, who said saga can't with stock brakes can't do it? sifu titanrev will prove many wrong
What happen to your windscreen and windows...all so foggy one... oh that crap saga block your lane izit nvm next time I see that fellow I whack him...Bwahahahaha
This post has been edited by TitanRev: Dec 30 2014, 04:21 PM
Dec 24 2014, 09:02 AM
Quote
I also prefer to DIY a lot to save on cost. Seldom let ppl fix or install. Fixing on/off switch is not that complicated. You just need a relay 4 prong and you can DIY that's all.
There are believe that a huge oil cooler will made the oil circulation lose pressure nia, but never heard of adding a cooler made the oil too cold 
Basically with or without, I'm still start and drive gently from 30seconds to a minute, after got out from housing area straight away gone wild liao 
Things I noticed:
oh that crap saga block your lane izit nvm next time I see that fellow I whack him...Bwahahahaha
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