domokun, the only worries i have with 3rd party E mount is that the 3rd party lens wont able to have the OSPDAF.
but honestly, ANY MODERN lens designed/made from 2010 onwards are pretty SHARP for any 12mp system, i dont know any lens(post 2010) has bad reputation... speed wise, i still find sigma HSM or/and their standard motor are pretty slow.

SEL 1855 is a Kitlens catagory, used as standard lens for previous Nex before it was replace with sel1650. so.... basically if you buy 1855 is like buying another 1650. hehe. but then u just browsing lens to buy? or prehaps try shooting more with your currently kitlens until you figure its limitation and buy lens base on reason to overcome that limitations.

the main cons of sigma lens just only no pdaf and no stabilization, otherwise just top up few hundred  to 35mm 1.8 sony? =w=
it should be ok of 1/40 sec shutter speed without OSS, if lower than that, better have a tripod to support =w=

Lack of OSS? Up ISO and shutterspeed would do for me :v
I shoot with Sigma 30mm quite often, it's the older version tho:

The Sigmas are excellent, except for some light ghosting effect with light sources in night scenes on the 19. The 30 is really too slow for you to "play around with" IMHO, but its sharper at 2.8 compared to the SEL35 at the same aperture.
And of course, the Siggys have no OSS and PDAF.
The 19mm is a great lens just because it's largely superior to the nearest Sony equivalent (the SEL20), except that the SEL20 is a much smaller (being a pancake).
As for the SEL35 vs Sig30, I find it more of a toss up. I opted for the SEL35 in the end, though truth be known I only keep it around for lowlight shooting and videos nowadays as I prefer the 19mm FL for general shots - the 35 is a bit too long for snapshots and a bit too short to flatten face shots.
So before you start saving up for the SEL35, find out if you even like to shoot in that FL first. No use owning a 35 when you end up wishing you'd gotten an SEL50 instead.
Like edpaul said before, best way is to play with the 1650 more first until you know for sure what you need.
As far as the 1855 goes, if you can live with the need to correct your shots in-camera or through LR, the 1650 is fine actually. The 1855 isn't much better optically, besides NOT needing software correction.
And yes, both are zoom lenses. Though they're also called kit lenses coz that's what Sony usually gives us in the box... though I personally got my A6k body only and got the SEL35 as a "kit lens"... and ended up buying the SEL1650 later anyway for event shoots.

I have both EX DN version and I must say it is good budget prime lens. both lens are sharp at centre and soft around the edges. For the price I paid I can't complain.

Eiraku
i would prefer to call the 35mm as prime rather then a kitlens. and no, your A6k + 35 is consider a 'dedicated' combo kit, so i wouldnt call it a kitlens. a lens attached to a body 247 from day one also not consider kitlens. i have 200-400 dedicate to my A77, it is not consider as A77 kitlens.

domo_kun
Kitlens is refer to the basic 'Starter Kit' of photographer, the most basic lens to pair with your camera.
a kitlens would be know as the cheapest all rounder too, 18-55 F3.5-5.6 and tele 55-200 F4-F5.6 (APSC Amount), or 18-55 or 16-50 F3.5-F5.6 and tele 55-210 (e mount).
in the pass, FF kit is refer to the 28-75, 24-105, 35-70, 35-135, variable aperture from F3.5 to 5.6
then come to Kitlens replacement, also as better all rounder, like super zoom 18-200/250/270/300 (i trying to adapt both A and E mount), high quality 16-80 Zeiss, 18-105, and etc.
or bright kitlens replacement, F2.8 kits (A mounts) like SAL16-50F2.8, tammy 1750F2.8, siggy 1755F2.8
or very special dedicated bright lens, the siggy 18-35 F1.8 (A mount)... which means u just save a bunch of money from buying 35F1.8, 30F1.8, 28F1.8, 24F1.8, 20F1.8, 18F1.8 primes.
or some people prefer to stick with primes for the widest possible Aperture for the light you can gain to save as much ISO stops as you can.

It depends. Though, Shashinki has acceptable prices most of the time. I wouldn't call it the cheapest though.

You might want to cross ref between prices in Sh, YL camera's website and Lelong just to get a clearer picture of how prices are over here - I find that sufficient 99% of the time.

There are Adobe Premier Pro, Vegas

domo_kun What kinda remote? I have 2 on my phone (the official Sony PlayMemories remote via WiFi AND the DSLR Remote android app via my IR blaster) and a tiny external IR remote. They work well on the A6k, should work on the Nex 6.
As for wireless RF remotes or wired remotes via the USB port (including intervalometers), I haven't tried. The DSLR Remote app has basic valometer functions anyway.

Remote as in IR remote trigger or with smartphone? I've used the official sony app and a third party time lapse app. Works fine

Yes, you need extra batts for sure. I have 4 and I don't even shoot time lapses.

190 is an OK price for Ori FW50s. If you don't mind 3rd party batts, I've used Octopus branded FW50s and they were okay - as always Ori batts are recommended but the 3rd party units I've used didn't give me much issue, besides being fragile. One of my Octopus batts already have a broken power connector. It works but...

Pisen should be good another locally available brand. If you don't mind eBay try getting Wasabi Power FW50s, they're quite famous for being reliable over in the States.

As for external chargers, grab a "Kingma dual USB FW50" charger from the Bay. Will be doing an external charger shootout soon on me blog but so far the Kingma seems to be the best of the bunch, at least in terms of built quality.

Also, if you're shooting long time lapses, consider getting a battery grip. At least it'll last twice as long.

pm me if u want original new battery, selling below market price.

(extra unit, i got 4 batteries on my hand exclude this new one)

Estimated delivery between Monday, Aug. 10 and Wednesday, Aug. 26
same here     

I have actually researched about this - wanted to do a series of images that captures just that, some time back. On a film SLR lol.
What you generally need is:
1) Tripod (monopod will not be stable enough).
2) Very dark ND filter (Hoya ND400 at least, ND1000 if you can find it. Maybe even multiple filters if one is not enough).
3) Remote of some sort (to reduce shake).
4) MLU equipped camera (applicable only to DSLR - mirrorless is... mirrorless).
As for shutter speeds, you'll have to experiment. For a totally empty street, you might even have to go to exposures of a few minutes on bulb mode (thus the need for a really dark ND filter + tripod), depending on how busy the street and how bright the lighting conditions are.
Not to mention a really stable place to stick the tripod on. For an exposure of minutes, even small vibrations from people walking around you and cars passing by could affect your pictures.
IINM anyway.
It will be much easier if you simply want them blurred. To completely erase them will need... work.

There's actually one more way with lesser shuuter speed.
Set on a very steady tripod. Set about 5-10 secs per shot (doesn't matter that much). Here comes the fun bit. Shoot hundreds and hundreds of shot of the same scene without budging the tripod one bit (IR remote works best).
Import to photoshop.. Then...
Nvm.. I think I'll Google it for you instead of typing it all out...
http://toomanyadapters.com/how-to-remove-p...otos-photoshop/
There you go

Exposure stacking a-la startrails? Interesting way of approaching it...

when u asking this, are you thinking of DIY mode?

google lowepro inverse 200aw, look at how the tripod strap is located, you may grab some velcro and strap from cushion/sewing supply shop and DIY a mod for your bag.

another way is to buy two huge ass carabiner, each for each side of your retrospective bag strap, and hook to the tripod bag's D ring. (i did this before, and its very uncomfortable, but its a method of transporting it anyway)

Any interesting stuff?