Filter size? Either you go crapthin with Kenko Zeta stuff or B+W grads, or you get a thin step-up ring and go that way.

Or you can get Lee's Cokin style stuff, not sure if they have something that covers 16mm though.

Olive-backed Sunbird in Flight
Kelicap Bukit

wtf that's too much wei. so awesome! Did you zoom in a little or? ISO 6400? Purposely set it so high?

1635 and 50mm 1.4/1.8 and flash.

Been my go to wedding setup for many many years now.

The FE 55mm Zeiss is my favorite portrait lens, been using it to shoot wedding and others stuffs. Because it is a prime lens, you have to move a lot.

Is samyang= Rokinon?

What's the cheapest price possible for 1635Z in msia now? Do I refer to shashinki for the best price?

Wanna compare the price difference in the UK, because I'm planning to buy 1 over here.

Hi, I am getting the Sony A7.

Is there any other cheaper alternative 50mm lens to the Sony FE 55mm Zeiss lens?

The Zeiss I know its good but slightly too expensive

The "DSLR Remote" app also needs an IR Blaster equipped phone like the Note 3 or HTC One, just FYI. But it works pretty well, including the ability to set a timer (for timed exposures) and stuff.

As for the external IR remotes, like I say I also have one (two actually, one spare). They're really cheap out on 'Da Bay (ebei). Mine is from JYC, and is a simple one with a 2 sec timer, video record start/stop and shutter button only, enough for most uses.

Mine looks like this:



I saw more complex IR ones with EVEN MORE buttons also being sold, not sure if all the functions work with the Nex6/A6000 though.

Also, there's a free beta camera app out on Play Memories called "Touchless Shutter" that uses the EVF eye sensor to trigger the shutter. Pretty useless if you wanna trigger the shutter from far away, but kinda useful if all you want is to trigger the shutter without touching the button (to avoid vibrations on long exposures or something). I "think" it's compatible with the N6 but not sure.

BTW, just got myself another new toy. Later I post pictures and first impressions. Hint: it's got optical elements, but isn't really a fully fledged lens.

Not really... though I've heard it's not that complicated. The program that comes with it is crap though (supposedly) as it only works with ONE computer, and is very basic.

You can install a freeware called "dispcalgui" to continue using it on other computers though - plus it has WAYYYY more options than the basic Xpress program Spyder gives you. Dispcalgui could get a bit complicated though.

Do be reminded however that while the Spyder can "help" calibrate your display, it's not gonna magically increase your display panel's supported colour gamut. You need a display with a decent panel that covers at least sRGB first.

BTW, in unrelated news: https://goo.gl/mW5YqK

TL;DR: Our camera apps are actually Android apps, being run on a saperate Android subsystem within our cameras. Which means we can (theoretically) put our own apps in - though they need to be optimised for the limited resources of the cam.

Rooted A6000 anyone?

what you need to know? using it since spyder2. currently using Spyder4elite. (going to grab s5elite soon)

if you are using LCD, ur WB should be in 6500k. it will look a little warming at first... but you will get used to it.

Ahpingko

the program can be activated with same serial (or activated code) multiple time on multiple PC. the only limitation of the series are locked option/feature of the software, like studio matching, or custom brightness/whitebalance.

and for spyder2,3 express model, it only allowed calibration of 1 display(technically is running of single profile), or means multiple monitor will use same one profile. (but not sure with spyder5, heard they lifted this limitation)

colorimeter is to tune the computer actually, not the monitor. monitor are more of a fixed physical output. monitor display rely on the signal or data (analog for VGA port, digital for DVI/HDMI/DP port) from the graphic processing unit, which base on color profiles window/driver has given.

after tuning, it suppose to show accurate color of what you are suppose to see at the limitation of the monitor physical ability. so your edited photo should be as neutral base on your editing.

eg if your computer color has run off toward more pink tint, you might adjust your photo into the green zone without knowing it, and generally we calibrated monitor will see your photo in green tint.

calibrated monitor are good. because generally, iphone and smartphones are build to be as close to whitebalanced as possible, while laptop and lcd are a little colder, and crt (if there are any around) gets warmer overtime.

so if you edited the photo on your pc, dont worry what kind of result your friends see in their PC, because their PC/laptop might not be calibrated and their color might or may not be off, but rest assure, their mobile are the closest neutral color to your computer color.

also if you are not sure what editing you did, might gone wrong or not is whole another issue of your own color perception.

another thing that you will know your friend computer color has gone wrong or not is, when they upload their own photo, the whole/several album are all tinted towards a color... which i see commonly in many photographer's fb, especially towards green tint due to their computer(laptop) are too blueish red...

ok, i finished my coffee, back to work.

Any promo in Sony booth?