yea, we kawan jahat one... wahahaha

eh, we talking about adapter u jump in without proper introduction we sure thinking u talking about adapter le....

anyway, to answer you... once you reach iso6400 environment, the A7II will fail, the A7s continue to focus lock up to iso 25600 or more without AF assist.

edit: the PDAF works up to around 1600iso (@f2.8, not sure even the PDAF on sensor works like dedicated F2.8 sensor or not, or up to F3.5 standard)... and for contrast detect, which rely how clean the sensor can send the data/contrast to be detected, the FF 24mp work up to 6400 plus minus, but the A7s 12mp work all the way to 51200 (without AF assist).... so, when it gets dark, the A7s still rocks every camera out there...

PDAF is exclusive for Native Sony E mount. even 3rd party(sigma) lens native E also cant use the PDAF. thats the only way to help/keep sony keep selling their lens...

so, not even the older nex6 with PDAF assist works in either adapater nor non-Sony E mount lenses.


albert, if im not wrong, sony never bother to update the algorithm for the EA-CDAF (last was 1.02? or 1.2?).... so basically lastest A6000 or A7II EA1/3 PDAF is as fast as oldest nex3 with same EA1/3 (with the same lens to lens. SAM to SAM, SSM to SSM)....

This post has been edited by edpaul: Jan 29 2015, 07:35 PM

hahaha, who say mahal thing not good, mahal sure better lor... hahahaha!
my answer very straight forward to the main point one... u ask comparison ma i give u 'real life usage' and 'practical' comparison ma... spec can blind ppl from real life practical experience.....

dont think so much la... fast buy A7II, and sell me your nex6 rm300.

AM or M version?

hahahaha~ they were comparing with A7 that why....

anyway. did u know, Sony (worldwide) A7s is the most sold unit then any sony FF ever made? (more then A7+A7R put together!(i was surprise, and didnt believe at first) and more then A99!(was reported in SAR too)) got that from Sony personal. he back from japan meeting last year and Japan gave the statistic and their direction now is to make at least (min) 3 FE lens a year priority and to push FE mount more.

and i guess.... the A7s (did) killed the D4s market... for the people who doesnt need the superior AF, but need the silent shutter + high ISO(like me).... paparazzi choice of the year!


not to mention, to best honest,... A7s is 2 years ahead when sony will be able to make a 24mp as clean as it! so think of it this way, paying 6k for iso of 2 years ahead... cheap(even VS d4s). i started photography from the 4mp era, and dslr from the 6mp era (was it D40s? vs 400D) so to me, 6mp is more then enough for anything we(average photographer) are doing/using for.... 12mp its extra already....

hand icthy..... post some pic from 2 years ago... september 2012, shot with A99. (heavy loads warning)



This post has been edited by edpaul: Jan 30 2015, 01:05 PM

sony never mention weather seal, so, i would say "do it at own risk" but most of us wont shoot under the rain like me

the osaka umeda skybuilding scenery photo was process by an older PC (q6600 2.0ghz) for 2 monitor setup in 2012

this new setup was done in 2014 June. editing wise, honestly it does speed up the workflow dramatically (provided u disable the internet too)

hi, im not sure what subject are you usually shooting, but the bokeh (or DOF) are affected by distant with subject. the photo you show, is a consider quite close to subject, (less then a meter) that could easily give you a shallow dof with any lens even with aperture of 5.6

but if you are expecting bokeh like that with human subject (average pass 1 meter distant) then you would require about F2.8 aperture with working distance of 50mm. or a F1.8 @ 35mm distant.

(well, im not talking about taking bokeh to the extreme level, but just enough to make your subject pop)

let me give u easy example to "see" easier then all talk talk and become more confusing. this is not scientific review, but just a mere sharing how the result will look like with lens u mention in photography terms... eg.CoC become bokeh

using nex3+SEL35F1.8, using my cologne bottle as size comparison (slightly bigger then the cup of your photo). and the distance used is my monitor behind it, which is about 60-70cm away (vs your photo sample building is at least 100 meter away). my subject distance to camera is about 40-50cm.... lets start with F2.8


dont bother about the spanner, coz just done some pipe works.

as fair comparison i focus on the monitor as well... F2.8 (yea i scroll back to your post)

(yea im just watching big hero 6) to me, its kinda "very" bokeh-licious as the 'photographer term'

so to me F2.8 is actually quite shallow in DOF (depending on distant to subject). and lets try the F5.6 (seem many people THINKS that its not shallow capable enough to get photo like your sample)

wow..... F5.6??? thats still really bokehlicious

how about F8?


and F11???

and F16!!!!!

notbad... i just dont get some people saying F16 cant get bokeh, now, imagine the background is as far as 100meters

ok, tips how to see the big difference on the photo aboves, just find the monitor power led (white). see the bokeh shape slowly take place.

how about 19mm like the sigma? well, i dont have a 19mm sigma sadly, only a old 1855 kitty... meow... so i'll stick with 18mm for starting instead of 19mm...
and it starts at F3.5...

yea, the quality look weird on kitty... @18mm it looks a little wider... and F3.5 also look bokehlicious too~
(a little underexpose due to my monitor is bright, messing up with the metering, i use multi, lazy to change to centerweighted )

now to F5.6


then F8!


now... last pic, F11 @ 18mm.


whatever you shoot, really depend on your subject, distance, and even creativity comes to play. dont go worry too much bout what lens u can grab.... let your understand with your kitty and creative flow~ there is many angles and ideas you can try to make best out of it. but then of coz, a wide aperture lens like F1.8 from a 35mm or 50mm can lift the limits of creativity to higher heights~ (mostly in portraits)

hope this info helps.










This post has been edited by edpaul: Feb 16 2015, 11:25 PM

this is example of good reply!

yes, its obvious its a wide lens. (lazy argue with ppl keep saying 35mm or 50 or 85 or 135 lens is bokehlicious)
Yes, shooting a lot and discovering the true potential of what you have in hand is a wonderful thing. and i love how you share your experience...

yes, the idea is very similar in what many car makers does to their advertisement (but in video) where they move the light around the shape out the car in video. its fun to show 'outline' and a little details of the subject. also like how Sony Sneak peaked their A77 before announcing it

just use a blackpaper, roll it to your torchlight, it will cut off leaks from sides.... tuck in some tissue, the amount would depend how much light u need to leak.... and walaaa... a control-able light. try draw on your watch first... the best(shinning) subject~

if you dont mind, try PM Gouki he has an extra unit... very mint unit~ and he is planning to sell it.

hope it helped

its the one and only mirror (reflex) lens that have Auto Focus. others (canikonyang) are all MF. given that, the only condition is that it only allowed to use the center "spot" af area. the AF suffer a little due to F8 light transmission.

Currently, All A mount will need to use EA adapter to use on Emount body, hence it will fully use the SLT tech.

for lens under rm10k.... there is always a 70200 F2.8 lens.... its short... for a slightly longer reach, there is a very very rare luck you may see or get to touch the sigma 120300 F2.8... super heavy(really heavyyyyy felt heavier then 300F2.8), a tack longer then 70200, really huge front element. but god, its beautiful lens. got a chance to play with it with a nikon D800. it perform really well. but best not to handheld, 5 min max and your arm shaking like mad.

i once saw a siggy 150-500(old model right after the 50-500) which is very sharp at wide open.

a little good thing about NIMH is the behavior. unlike akaline battery has a steady drop in voltage that you can feel the cycle time drops slower and slower... the NiMH (most LCD rechargable) are design to retain 1.2v until the last 10% where it will drastically drop in voltage, which affect cycle time drastically too. so when you notice it take about 6-8 sec to cycle, its very well under 10%(or ~20%).

the graph is from eneloop website, but its not 100% representation, but it works something like this... you can google many graphs similar to it.

**warning, very very huge picture

**warning, very very huge picture

This post has been edited by edpaul: Feb 25 2015, 01:51 PM

eh, crap, how to reduce the size? @.@ post baru know its so big...

*spoiler added to pic

This post has been edited by edpaul: Feb 25 2015, 01:52 PM

if u shoot a lot event, u will learn to feel it easily. suddenly u got 2 dark frame with your usual shooting habits... then u know time to swap out for fresh one.

we should Spend on the RIGHT lens for your system...

but general advise is all about 'getting ready for FF body' perception... if you know well not going into FF body in future, then you dont need to grab FF lens.

for those interested with 1835 sigma lens, i used it for a few month with A57. 1 word....GODLY. no lens in the world today can beat it yet, in sharpness, in details, in built, in weight(very heavy nearly as heavy as 2470Zeiss), only issue, the HSM seem a little slow.

Gouki, Zstan, porkchop all tested the lens before.


mind you, its a Crop lens, not FE lens.

i used it for a few months paired with nex7 a few years back, it is seriously nice, the clarity pops better then SEL50 or SEL35. really fast AF... the only issue it gave me, very limited uses,... not wide enough, not tele enough.... hanging in the middle range, forcing me to swap lens too often

domokun, the only worries i have with 3rd party E mount is that the 3rd party lens wont able to have the OSPDAF.

but honestly, ANY MODERN lens designed/made from 2010 onwards are pretty SHARP for any 12mp system, i dont know any lens(post 2010) has bad reputation... speed wise, i still find sigma HSM or/and their standard motor are pretty slow.

SEL 1855 is a Kitlens catagory, used as standard lens for previous Nex before it was replace with sel1650. so.... basically if you buy 1855 is like buying another 1650. hehe. but then u just browsing lens to buy? or prehaps try shooting more with your currently kitlens until you figure its limitation and buy lens base on reason to overcome that limitations.

Flash is always more powerful then hotlights (aka Contiguous light, modeling light, floodlight, LED panel lighting)...

bulb holder burn or not is depend on the holder quality itself, rm150 vs rm800 holder.

basically it depend what 'iso' you require to work on. if you wanted clean iso100-200 iso, you will need more then 10 bulb from one direction which is not effective anymore....

if working with iso1600 (plusminus) as if capturing ambient feel, yea, the bulbs works like ambient light.

another thing with hotlight and model dont mix well. because hotlight hurts eye... you go try look into your ceiling light non stop for 15 minute.... thats how they feel.... XD

Eiraku
i would prefer to call the 35mm as prime rather then a kitlens. and no, your A6k + 35 is consider a 'dedicated' combo kit, so i wouldnt call it a kitlens. a lens attached to a body 247 from day one also not consider kitlens. i have 200-400 dedicate to my A77, it is not consider as A77 kitlens.

domo_kun
Kitlens is refer to the basic 'Starter Kit' of photographer, the most basic lens to pair with your camera.

a kitlens would be know as the cheapest all rounder too, 18-55 F3.5-5.6 and tele 55-200 F4-F5.6 (APSC Amount), or 18-55 or 16-50 F3.5-F5.6 and tele 55-210 (e mount).
in the pass, FF kit is refer to the 28-75, 24-105, 35-70, 35-135, variable aperture from F3.5 to 5.6

then come to Kitlens replacement, also as better all rounder, like super zoom 18-200/250/270/300 (i trying to adapt both A and E mount), high quality 16-80 Zeiss, 18-105, and etc.
or bright kitlens replacement, F2.8 kits (A mounts) like SAL16-50F2.8, tammy 1750F2.8, siggy 1755F2.8
or very special dedicated bright lens, the siggy 18-35 F1.8 (A mount)... which means u just save a bunch of money from buying 35F1.8, 30F1.8, 28F1.8, 24F1.8, 20F1.8, 18F1.8 primes.

or some people prefer to stick with primes for the widest possible Aperture for the light you can gain to save as much ISO stops as you can.