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QUOTE(hushymushy @ Aug 7 2008, 12:24 AM)
first of all....
have u all check where is lacking?
alot of people complain here lacking and there lacking
first of all....i would check the current setup
who says roger mids not good? aint saying its bad or good...
factors to consider
what is current high pass and low pass?
have u installed the mid bass correctly?
have u sound proofed the door and how did u do it?
have you checked the phase?
so again...by asking certain portion no point...some hardwares just dont match with each other...but 70% of the time is due to bad tuning and installation
i suggest u guys put down what is ur current system and how it was setup
at least that can point to clearer pictures
just asking bout is this good or is this going to be better...its hard to imagine lor
based on ur previous posting....
stratos...here r my comments
Alpine MRV-F340 4 chan amp (2 chan tweeter, 2 chan mid bass)
Rogers RG65 front comp set
Pioneer DEH-P6850MP
MA Audio mid bass for rear
Monster cable 4 channel RCA cable
this is how i'm going to setup above hardware
1. set HU to pure flat and turn off every feature including EQ, loudness and watever bass/treble enhancement
2. wire channel 1/2 to front comps passive. remove rear speakers
3. sound proof front doors and custom the mdf speaker holders. if got budget go for custom metal ring to hold the mids.
4. change to monster cable rca to something more clean. suggest hisago, wireworld, chord and many other. Monster Cables for sub is good but not front comps.
5. custom make the sub box and i will recommend JL W1V2 which is about RM400. Power requirement is about 150watts. Make sealed box about 1.3cuft to 1.5cuft. after they make the box, use silicon sealent to seal all the joints. make sure no air leakage. can bridge channel 3/4 to whack the subs.
6. put all round 4gauge cables with proper fuses. add caps if u got budget
7. lastly if got budget...change to more powerful amps. i suppose the mrv-340 is about 55watts rms only. u may wanna consider amps like mrv-540 or genesis profile 4 ultra. of coz ultimates like Brax, McIntosh or PHD would be even nicer
am suspecting ur current amp not enough juice to drive all the speakers. one way to go active with adding ext xover or change to better HU like Clarion HX-D2.
the other way is customizing ur own passives...but u hv to check with rta to see the graph first
if i were u...i would maintain HU. get a 2 channel amps for the front...say 120watts to 150watts x 2 channel and get a monoblock for the sub.
Added on August 7, 2008, 12:41 am
mid bass refers to a driver that produces somewhere from 4khz to 40hz range. thats y is a combination of mids and bass.
depending on the voice coil, basket, cone material, rubber linings, depth of cone and many factors...that will determine the range played
you can actually check through Scanspeaks, Vifa speakers...each speaker..they will show you the frequency response graph so that people can start matching tweets to complete the range
example
tweets play from 3Khz -12db slope high pass to about 25khz or maybe more
mids play from 3khz -12db slope low pass to about 50hz high pass
to complete the range....u need subwoofer...which carries more surface on the speaker to create very low frequency from 50hz to 20hz range
our ears can sense from 20hz to 20khz...so above is a rough guideline how to achieve full frequency hearing
have u all check where is lacking?
alot of people complain here lacking and there lacking
first of all....i would check the current setup
who says roger mids not good? aint saying its bad or good...
factors to consider
what is current high pass and low pass?
have u installed the mid bass correctly?
have u sound proofed the door and how did u do it?
have you checked the phase?
so again...by asking certain portion no point...some hardwares just dont match with each other...but 70% of the time is due to bad tuning and installation
i suggest u guys put down what is ur current system and how it was setup
at least that can point to clearer pictures
just asking bout is this good or is this going to be better...its hard to imagine lor
based on ur previous posting....
stratos...here r my comments
Alpine MRV-F340 4 chan amp (2 chan tweeter, 2 chan mid bass)
Rogers RG65 front comp set
Pioneer DEH-P6850MP
MA Audio mid bass for rear
Monster cable 4 channel RCA cable
this is how i'm going to setup above hardware
1. set HU to pure flat and turn off every feature including EQ, loudness and watever bass/treble enhancement
2. wire channel 1/2 to front comps passive. remove rear speakers
3. sound proof front doors and custom the mdf speaker holders. if got budget go for custom metal ring to hold the mids.
4. change to monster cable rca to something more clean. suggest hisago, wireworld, chord and many other. Monster Cables for sub is good but not front comps.
5. custom make the sub box and i will recommend JL W1V2 which is about RM400. Power requirement is about 150watts. Make sealed box about 1.3cuft to 1.5cuft. after they make the box, use silicon sealent to seal all the joints. make sure no air leakage. can bridge channel 3/4 to whack the subs.
6. put all round 4gauge cables with proper fuses. add caps if u got budget
7. lastly if got budget...change to more powerful amps. i suppose the mrv-340 is about 55watts rms only. u may wanna consider amps like mrv-540 or genesis profile 4 ultra. of coz ultimates like Brax, McIntosh or PHD would be even nicer
am suspecting ur current amp not enough juice to drive all the speakers. one way to go active with adding ext xover or change to better HU like Clarion HX-D2.
the other way is customizing ur own passives...but u hv to check with rta to see the graph first
if i were u...i would maintain HU. get a 2 channel amps for the front...say 120watts to 150watts x 2 channel and get a monoblock for the sub.
Added on August 7, 2008, 12:41 am
mid bass refers to a driver that produces somewhere from 4khz to 40hz range. thats y is a combination of mids and bass.
depending on the voice coil, basket, cone material, rubber linings, depth of cone and many factors...that will determine the range played
you can actually check through Scanspeaks, Vifa speakers...each speaker..they will show you the frequency response graph so that people can start matching tweets to complete the range
example
tweets play from 3Khz -12db slope high pass to about 25khz or maybe more
mids play from 3khz -12db slope low pass to about 50hz high pass
to complete the range....u need subwoofer...which carries more surface on the speaker to create very low frequency from 50hz to 20hz range
our ears can sense from 20hz to 20khz...so above is a rough guideline how to achieve full frequency hearing
oh wow happen to stumble upon this post, damn informative, quoting for reference ^^
Jun 1 2010, 02:52 PM

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