original H4 used few years
switch to Novsight green fake XHP50 - burn 1 each year, used 2 years+
now use back original H4 from kilang

LED is good, just really need to spend on premium and branded

headlamp level need to readjust, because the lamp cutoff is determined by the bulb design, not the housing like projector
For LED, need to lower the cutoff than standard H4

Nightbreaker use blue coating to make certain spots look brighter than surrounding

I will just use normal H4, no color on the glass

in case you didn't know, don't touch the bulb glass with bare hands when installing, felt or cotton glove ok
H4 bulb cannot have anything oily greasy on there

if you see any smudge, clean it with alcohol other wise the bulb life will shorten, or burn immediately

CVT may not be as lasak if you full haul all the time

145k km
steering rack
original TRW 1.3k

Semalam tukar tayar

2 pieces on front 205/55 R16
Hankook Ventus Prime 4 aka VP4

Rear still on XM2 205/55R16
Front was using 215/45R17 Primacy4 for a while now they're gone, so go back to stock rim using the VP4

XM2 (used from another car) 35k rear (not including previous mileage) and still going, 20k front finished (touching TWI, outer edges ripping and shredding)
Primacy 4 (used from another car) put on front, 25k finished both pairs - treads are not touching TWI, but outer edges are ripping and shredding... maybe lower profile makes the outer edges work harder

From my experience, the Michelins are very long lasting, if only the front tyres don't tear on the outer sides, they would last even longer - the XM2 (2020 tyres) were tearing and ripping off, same as the Primacy4 (2019 tyres IINM)

Maybe need front camber adjustment...

EO I'm still using Mizu 0W-40 every 5k km

OCH hose, just monitor and won't bother to replace every 40k km... if anything should happen, it's the oil cooler clogging not the hose problem

yeah, OCH is under monitor
once a while reach over to take a look and feel it
P1SC gave me rubber + metal but that one started to leak at the joint

Michelin chipping is normal, mine were rather dated so the tread started to peel

If any of you have wonky car behavior:
- remove the key but door doesn't unlock
- manually unlock, then open the door, but cabin alarm will beep
- exit the car, cannot lock with remote

please check the ignition key hole (steering column)
- with the car door open, without key, cabin alarm will not beep
- push the key in, you will feel a slight click, and then the cabin alarm will beep

if that doesn't happen, like in my case... I spray some WD40 in the keyhole, at random (because I don't know where the switch is), then I push/pull the key in and out of the keyhole (yes, sounds obscene) until it goes back to normal

when the keyhole switch is wonky, sometimes the car alarm will go off on its own

not many, just few

the OCH no problem liao, make sure the oil cooler itself is not clogged which causes the hose to swell and burst

my steering rack leaking earlier this year, after 11 years or 140k km
but, it's a mechanical steering rack, so it works fine, not like the EPS type
also, cheaper to replace than EPS racks

the steering rack bush - original factory one will last a few months, then if you're lucky, the warranty piece will last for years and years
after that, can get aftermarket bush, those red ones, more elastic... the blue semi-transparent ones are very hard so I didn't try this

tukar windscreen, original Saint Gobain Sekurit to Pilkington RM650

replaced polarizer in the reverse camera monitor (inside rear view mirror one)
it's 45 degree type

restored headlamp using Mr DIY Visbella kit... I rate my work 6/10

Mizu oil:
2022 Dec - 127k - 5W50
2023 May - 132k - 0W40
2023 Oct - 138k - 0W40
2024 Apr - 145k - 0W40
2024 Aug - 150k - 0W40 *** Oil sludge detected on oil fill cover

you're saying sludge and viscosity are related?

dunno, jaga minyak should be ok, mine 150k

150k - change alternator one way pulley

symptom before change - masuk gear engine judder, release pedal serpentine belt make squealing noise (but goes away if aircon compressor is off), which can appear to be tensioner problem

engine now feels smoother, maybe placebo effect
later will try SAT mode to verify engine judder at low RPM

update 15/Oct - so far so good

This post has been edited by alexei: Oct 15 2024, 02:54 PM

Oil cooler dissected

as I said before, maybe it's not the OCH hose that is broken, is the oil cooler that clogged up inside causing the hose to burst
changing the hose will not solve the issue
need to change the oil cooler

Carleur?

welcome to the club

don't save on oil change ya, I do 5k with Mizu fully synthetics
anything can ask here, we share share info

other mods: Kayaba RS Ultra, and front tower bar

engine mounting, take note, see there got the chop of "TRIM" or not, mine one is using this, most tahan so far
Sarawak road need good absorber, and bushing also fast wearout... steering rack bush also can check

use buy from shopee, red color PU bushing, last longer (shopee Champion autoparts supply)
and if you want, can lapik spring add another 20mm~25mm, very nice (shopee rubberkingauto)

This post has been edited by alexei: Nov 14 2024, 04:42 PM

2022 Dec at 127k until now at 155k, total ~30k km
usually the 0W-40

some say ok, some say not
but my last change detected sludge on inside the engine cover... so, ymmv

update:
- used 2 cycles of Mizu, each cycle 2500km, total 5k, to reduce chances of sludge
- now switch to different brand and monitor


This post has been edited by alexei: Dec 16 2024, 09:02 AM