PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V65

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PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V65, Standard stock sampai tak boleh stock la

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wankel	Nov 10 2014, 05:16 PM Return to original view \| Post #1
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(TitanRev @ Nov 10 2014, 06:50 PM) Guys, I would like to share with you all a simple DIY to remove the rust at the front cross member behind the front bumper. In this DIY you need to remove the whole bumper assembly to have access to the rusted area. The rust was caused by the rubbing of the bumper support against the cross member and overtime the paint and antirust gets rubbed off. During my 1st time removing the front bumper the rust was not that much but this time again I remove the front bumper the rust has gotten worse and spread to larger area so in order to remove the rust once an for all. You can do this. Removing the bumper is not a difficult task at all. Just remove all the upper radiator clip and the clip behind the no plate, the bottom bumper 10mm bolts 6 of them, then 2 more 10mm bolts at the wheel guard where the side fender meet the front bumper and the 2 plastic screw lock. Thanks for the info, I think I'll check mine out in the near future.
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wankel	Nov 17 2014, 11:45 AM Return to original view \| Post #2
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	I wish I could drive a tank that far, mine has only done 700 km in over two months since I bought it, and I think is only starting to loosen up a bit now. Circumstances have prevented me travelling of late. It's already way overdue time wise for the first service despite not reaching the distance.
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wankel	Nov 18 2014, 03:14 PM Return to original view \| Post #3
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	Has anyone here ever programmed a new key for an FLX? It seems information online about chip types and all is somewhat scarce. I'm talking about the transponder, not the remote, for which there is info available.
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wankel	Nov 18 2014, 05:27 PM Return to original view \| Post #4
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 18 2014, 07:06 PM) Case to case basis, we have very little information on the transponder chip model. However, price to made 1 key here in Malaysia, factory will reset the transponder code and the immobilizer 1 shot(together with the new key) would cost around RM200. Translate in Oz would be around 70 bucks I guess. It's something I'd like to do myself, I did it with my previous Hyundai and do enjoy the tinkering as well as gaining a smaller more pocket friendly key. The chip info is a bit lacking with some claiming an id8c which may be somewhat mythical as I've seen mention of universal types which has raised my interest. I've ordered another programmer as my old one sadly won't handle proton, so I may work it out later, at least I'll have some fun playing. Despite an exchange rate that would indicate AU$1 = about RM3 as far as buying Saga parts goes AU$1 = <RM1 Soon enough I'll need to buy parts and I'm sure going to look into getting them sent from Malaysia, even with cruel postage charges they should still be cheaper than local supply.
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wankel	Nov 25 2014, 04:26 PM Return to original view \| Post #5
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(Joe Kreutz @ Nov 25 2014, 05:38 PM) can i ask stupid question?? what is the different between 10w30 and 10w40?? tomorrow got Pennzoil n Repsol sale in UMW, im thinking of buying 10w40 Same cold thickness but the 30 is thinner at operating temperature, that should result in better fuel economy. If by chance you often go for a high speed dash up to Genting Highland as I've seen hordes of Proton drivers do on youtube then the 40 may offer better protection, but others more familiar with the campro engine can be more definite about that.
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wankel	Nov 25 2014, 04:52 PM Return to original view \| Post #6
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	Further with the oil thing I'm fairly wary about the grade, after SL the zinc content is much reduced for SM and then reduced again in SN, the reduction in the ZDP zinc thing may be quite adverse for the campro, others may have facts on that, any info is welcomed by me. I say that due to the old style rubbing surface on cam to valve that may resent losing zinc content. So caution may indicate SL to be the prime choice, though I have some 10W-30 SM ready to go into mine in another week.
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wankel	Nov 26 2014, 08:11 PM Return to original view \| Post #7
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	I'm using LED for number plate light and reverse light with no issues. The 3rd brake light however did cause an error which was simply solved by adding a 1.5 k resistor in parallel with it to provide a small path to ground, I suspect there would be a lot of leeway in the value of that resistor but if I got energetic I'd experiment with a higher value.
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wankel	Nov 27 2014, 12:19 PM Return to original view \| Post #8
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(aredill @ Nov 27 2014, 11:47 AM) woww...interdesting. coolkwc , ur car is first gen blm ka? not fl/flx kan? would like to make reference change bulb for my blm Mine is FLX so the only path to earth for the brakes when not operating is via the 3rd lamp, as I found out rather quickly it seems the canbus uses this to check for a blown filament and pops up a dash warning if no earth path is found. I used a 1.5 k resistor that was handy in my resistor box to provide a small current that seems to satisfy canbus.
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wankel	Nov 27 2014, 01:25 PM Return to original view \| Post #9
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	I've seen one other in my town, same colour driven by an mature woman. Protons are not popular here possibly due to being unfairly denigrated, I had no interest in one until I saw how much car you got for the money and that it appeared to be an easy to service car. I didn't read of any reliability issues that waved a red flag of avoid about them. I knew of the Lotus input to handling but that still came as a rather pleasant surprise upon driving.
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wankel	Nov 27 2014, 02:05 PM Return to original view \| Post #10
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(aredill @ Nov 27 2014, 03:48 PM) Good for you wankel Btw what RON or Euro standard mostly available in AUS ? Sorry, out of topic again. Just eagerly want to know. For us the common grade is 91 RON, with 95 and 98 RON fairly readily available but at a fairly high price premium. What I'm using is the base grade 91 with 10% ethanol, from what I've read the ethanol boosts the RON to 94-95 so should make it suitable, plus it has the bonus of being a few cents cheaper than the unadulterated fuel but the current price is about AU$1.50 per litre which is something I find fairly painful, and there is no public transport here.
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wankel	Nov 27 2014, 03:00 PM Return to original view \| Post #11
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(iskazulka @ Nov 27 2014, 04:51 PM) and how much is for RON 95 & RON98? I bought some 95 a couple of top ups ago that was 11 cents per litre dearer, I might still be in shock.
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wankel	Nov 27 2014, 03:42 PM Return to original view \| Post #12
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	A modification I've done but have yet to drive enough to judge it. It's sort of reverse to the usual trying to extract power mod, in this case I'm trying to adjust the output of the lambda sensor to try and get the ECU to lean the mixture a tad. It's more difficult to do than the usual reverse mod as the voltage must be raised, which is difficult due to having to be isolated from the cars ground. I didn't fancy cutting the stock sensor wiring so I grabbed an aftermarket one here sensor The Hyundai plug is the same as ours and all these standard sensors should have the same results. The solar panel has no need to be fancy, we're only seeking 100mV or so, something like this is what I usedpanel I just stuck mine in an old bit of tube and taped it up a bit, shown here Anyway food for thought, maybe some will get ideas. My thinking was that car makers tend to be conservative with settings so there should be a bit of leeway to adjust mixture, mine is actually set to add 70 mV to the sensor and it doesn't throw an error code nor does anything seem amiss with its running. The downstream sensor will also tend to think the catalytic converter is quite healthy with this little gadget.
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wankel	Nov 27 2014, 03:49 PM Return to original view \| Post #13
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(dares @ Nov 27 2014, 05:24 PM) OZzies Most earn more than $50k AUD per annum, that's $4.2k AUD per month or RM12k per month. You're pretty right but my income is way less as my health put me on the pension a while back, however I still make AU$20k a year for doing nothing more than breathing.
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wankel	Nov 29 2014, 05:54 AM Return to original view \| Post #14
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 27 2014, 06:16 PM) Ahhh..... That explains everything Thanks for that video, it's actually an ad that I'd never seen, it must have been broadcast on our free TV, which much rank as one of the world's worst services so I hardly bother with it any more. The 3 years breakdown service came as quite a surprise when I bought "Daisy" but it's not something I plan of ever using, my fear of telephones will ensure I'll do everything possible myself to avoid using it. Now a question for all, finding any CVT issues online is rare, is it fair to say our Punch VT2 unit is pretty decent, at least with more recent firmware, or is there a hidden flaw that's affecting many users? Personally I'm convinced most car transmissions will in the very near future be CVT, it achieves by its very nature what other types of transmissions work hard to emulate, but at higher cost.
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wankel	Nov 29 2014, 12:12 PM Return to original view \| Post #15
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(Eugene91 @ Nov 29 2014, 01:12 PM) IINM got sifu here say drop in performance filter better than Open POD? I'll agree with that but I'd be very surprised if it performs better than the stock filter. On a positive note it's likely that the pod filter element will be much easier and cheaper to replace than the very rare stock filter element that I will very likely order on-line from Malaysia.
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wankel	Nov 29 2014, 02:56 PM Return to original view \| Post #16
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 29 2014, 04:30 PM) Don't order from Malaysia. Our local f*ers rebadged it as WORKS ENGINEERING, so it looks more US rather than Taiwanese. That way, can sell at higher price They're the exact same stuff. Why pay more for a rebadged, over priced, heavier shipping cost version Thanks for the info, the pity is that I prefer to use a stock paper filter due to them actually being the best choice for filtering, if not the lowest price, but sourcing one is not as simple as it may be for those who enjoy living in Malaysia. However I'm more than a year away from needing one so with luck obtaining one by then may be easier than Oliver getting a second helping of gruel from Mr Bumble. At least oil and fuel filters are readily available, next week Daisy will get a new filter to go with the fresh oil she's due for, yes the 1000 km should tick up next week, two months overdue when she finally has a decent run. I'm 100% with your sentiments about paying extra money for a badge, I too like buying close to the source. This post has been edited by wankel**: Nov 29 2014, 02:58 PM
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wankel	Nov 29 2014, 03:39 PM Return to original view \| Post #17
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 29 2014, 05:16 PM) » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « There's 2 type of CVT transmission that I'm aware. 1 of the well known transmission issue from the Hongda Shitty iDSi back in 2004/5 show sign of belt loose tension after their 5 years service tenure. According to UNRELIABLE source of information(our local mechanics that operate under a big tree without even having a proper signboard of the wooden shop) The UNofficials said due to utilization of torque converter on the Shittys, hence their owner would really feel extremely smooth transition between standstill to motion. As I seen, 9/10 Hongda Shitty owner whacked their CVT box like they stole the car. The belt gets rapid expansion and contraction, over the long run the belt looses tension just like my tits is currently at my waist after I took an aggressive diet looses 18kg in few months. Typical symptoms for a f***edup torque converter CVT Hongda Shitty as below: 1) After engaged D, lagged before the car start moving(this 1 our GaGa already have it despite it's new, but that's another issue as we're utilizing wet clutch instead of torque converter). 2) Once torque converter spin up, the car start moving heavily despite RPM raises, but aint picking up speed. Like a busted clutch manual transmission car. But this will not continue, as soon as the belt start to get a hold of the situation, it compensate and adapt, suddenly you'll feel the car got hit by a 30tons truck from behind. 3) The reverse gear position solenoid screwed up when owner did not practice FULL STOP from a moving forward motion and force the transmission to disengaged the forward lock and kick into the reverse GEAR. These are the stuff I can remember, as few years ago before I purchase my GaGa, I did went to dig info about the Shittys as I planned to get 1. The above is extra info about other's CVT problem from a different car. Don't bother to read if you're not interested. For FLX, so far the only CVT issues I've heard: 1) Use wrong type of transmission fluid, jammed the whole damn thing. Guess who did it? Plotong authorized service center 2) Shift lever sensor malfunction, stuck with P/N often. 3) Shift lever "P" lock botton always break into trillion pieces 4) Belt position sensor malfunction Basically 1~3 are human error that causes the tranny dead. Thus far, haven't heard of any serious mechanical failure YET, and hopefully will not hear it for a very long time to come. #1 is something that should be in every CVT owner's mind, our oil company sites still indicate 7+ litres of ATF for our cars as it seems they haven't discovered Proton using CVT yet. If a service places goes online to check then trouble will follow. #3, yes I've seen that but regard it as a mere trifle, perhaps I'll have a 3d printer by the time it occurs. The reliability issues I'm interested in involve the Punch VT2. I rather like it that the Punch box uses and old motorcycle like multiplate wet clutch, my thinking is it reduces complexity and will help efficiency/economy. It also may puzzle nearby people when our cars take off like a manual but then just gain speed without revving.
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wankel	Dec 1 2014, 10:55 AM Return to original view \| Post #18
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(KerryNg @ Dec 1 2014, 12:14 PM) Does anyone buy car spare parts from overseas? Me, I buy a lot of general stuff and gadgets internationally but I do live away from a busy metropolis and mail from overseas is almost always cheaper and often quicker to arrive than domestically.
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wankel	Dec 1 2014, 11:02 AM Return to original view \| Post #19
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	QUOTE(Jusb @ Dec 1 2014, 12:49 PM) try to change your gear oil first. Further to that try synthetic oil. I did that with a previous car and it turned a fairly good change into an excellent change, it was an eye opener to me and converted me into a synthetic fan.
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wankel	Dec 5 2014, 09:44 AM Return to original view \| Post #20
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2014 From: Ingham NQ Australia	Depends on what you regard as good in brakes. Some like brakes that will be fade free for lap after lap on a racetrack, myself I so rarely use brakes that I'd prefer something cheap that will sacrifice itself in order to spare the rotor from wear. Pity you didn't ask next week, I've ordered a set not listed for the FLX that I suspect will be fine but without the expensive tang wear marker, but won't be able to confirm until they arrive. I'd love to find a road I can stretch the legs of Daisy on but in our heavily policed nation speed limits are a fact of life, you've made me curious about the speed warning, now I must find a quiet back road, though if I'm caught at that speed it'd mean loss of licence for 6 months and a ~MYR2500 fine. I sure wish we had a Genting highland racetrack like I see on youtube.
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