Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Bump Topic Topic Closed RSS Feed

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V65, Standard stock sampai tak boleh stock la

views
     
wankel
post Dec 5 2014, 11:05 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(davidke20 @ Dec 5 2014, 12:49 PM)
user posted image
user posted image

Gooding to the max. Can look for nestum for further detail. If in Shah Alam/Klang can look for mahihi. And if in Puchong, can also look for kenjilew ask for member price. I got mine outside, RM90 include installation.

OEM means Plotong original by BOSCH. Price around RM60 iinm.
*
I wish I could emigrate now, Bendix pads for FLX here on ebay are AU$75 or so, or about a million Ringits.
You lot live in a dream country for servicing, I simply don't trust our shops, invariably they will find an excuse to machine brake rotors and charge marginally less for grinding the service life away from the rotor than a new pair of rotors will cost. All part of the reason I do all my own work.


wankel
post Dec 5 2014, 12:30 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(davidke20 @ Dec 5 2014, 01:58 PM)

The only drawback, despite GCT claim they doesn't grind disc as bad, but after using it for few weeks I already can feel there's a thin layer of the disc surface being laid. I would take this problem and continue using GCT until the disc start to warp and replace rotor whenever needs.
*
Thanks for the warning, you pretty well have described the brake issue that has confused and cost people a fortune here.
From what I've gathered from information on-line so called warping is actually depositing of brake pad material on the rotor, something that the on car brake lathes used way excessively here won't fix. A good break in of new pads may prevent this, which I believe is three very hard almost stops from high speed, making sure you don't come to an actual stop before accelerating again, this will hopefully take care of the stuff that transfers from the pad to the rotor and sets to a very hard product. For me after your words of experience I'll just avoid GCT pads.
Actual warping of disc rotors is very rare and is used as an excuse too often, if the rotors have had that depositing commonly thought of as warping then removing them and planing on a fancy flatbed grinder may fix them, but with our labour costs rather astronomical it makes sense to buy new ones and find another use for the old ones like door stop.
wankel
post Dec 5 2014, 02:52 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(davidke20 @ Dec 5 2014, 04:18 PM)
Well, my original idea wasn't meant to confuse u sweat.gif For Malaysian, getting the disc laid will only cost RM35/side(probably A$20/pair) in this country. That however, doesn't cure the issue over the long run as the disc thickness is 19mm if I'm not mistaken. So for me, I'd take the pros of the efficiency(due to metal compound, which will cost the disc surface) then holding back with the stock rotor.

Your case, will be different as u've mentioned. I believe the original Plotong or BOSCH OEM will be good enough, since changing the disc will costs u a bomb laugh.gif But I'm serious if u're gonna buy anything & u find it cheap here, I'll take the initiative to help u up if needed icon_idea.gif
*
Thanks for the help though I'm not spending for a while yet, I just did the 1000 km first oil change on Wednesday. I put in some semi-synthetic 10W-30 because economy is important to me. I suspect I may source an air filter element when needed from there but that's way in the future.
I ordered a new set of brake pads out of curiosity as much as any other reason, I prefer cheap type pads that those of a performance mindset sneer at but replacement pads for a BLM/FLX here are rare and priced accordingly with no real choices except high priced pads, I've ordered a set for another car that I hope are the same pattern (but lack the squealer tang) and if OK will report the result here to add to a knowledge base. Part of the reason is also on the belief they won't wear the rotor as much as the stock pads.

The profiteering of our dealership service departments should be a good source for world scandal, I was just thinking of my mate whose dealership charged him AU$25.30 for two CR-2032 batteries for his car's remote control, plus labour, but the service had $700 of that involved anyway. Unlike me he was quite happy to pay it.
wankel
post Dec 5 2014, 03:16 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(mingwei1992 @ Dec 5 2014, 04:25 PM)
Hi guys,
maybe planning to get a saga flx se(my 1st car).
any problems about the car?
any advice? thank you
*
I've only had mine 3 months now so naturally don't really have anything to report. Since buying Daisy I've spent many hours seeking tales of woe but the FLX does appear fairly stable.
The main issue I've noted is the rear brake knocking noise which may just be annoying rather than a real failure, naturally I haven't had that problem yet but I have suspicions a build up of brake dust may be involved.
Earlier campro engines seem to have had numerous crankshaft breakages if it's a manual and driven by potential F1 drivers, I suppose that means every single male under 20 y/o, but dropping the clutch at redline was a sure path to tears, though Proton may have modified the crank.
Mine is a CVT and it's beautifully suited to my generally sedate style, those who have the mixed fortune of still having some youth will very likely find a manual a better proposition.
Unless you have ice in your blood you will unplug the alarm these cars are cursed with.
wankel
post Dec 5 2014, 04:05 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(davidke20 @ Dec 5 2014, 05:39 PM)
Dude,

The drum brake issue has been highlighted to Plotong many times. According to NON-officials, there was a transition between supplier. Original 1st batch S16(the BLMs and FL) doesn't have the knocking sound issue from the brake. But later version of FLX(after changed of supplier) having this crap. According to the NON-officials, he saw the factory moving the molds to the new supplier(which is next door only, different company but politically connected), half of the molds were not properly handled as a result like 50% of the end product of the brake hub was oval shaped laugh.gif It's safe to said, about 75% of FLXs having the same knocking sound following their drum brakes. Some 1 side will make sound, some both. Had a minor group of lucky fellas managed to grab a GaGa with both side hub is properly assembled and well shaped. Technically as you said, it wouldn't really affect the braking ability, it's just that when the uneven surface create friction with the brake shoes will result in pulsating knocking sound. I have 1 of this baby running everyday, until 1 day the rear spindle gave up and whole brake hub and the wheel fly away whistling.gif



After I replaced the whole rear braking system and bearings upgraded to FLX(unfortunately the good old BLM version of drum brake is no longer in the market), guess what. The moment I reverse my car out of the service bay, it went "tak tak tak tak tak" doh.gif
Good info thank you, I suppose I should consider myself lucky already.
wankel
post Dec 6 2014, 06:03 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


An Aussie invoice.
I found this in another forum, we have to wonder how they diagnosed low oil in the A/C system, if there was an A/C problem then it should have been covered by warranty. Attached Image
I hope the Proton dealers aren't as cunning.
wankel
post Dec 9 2014, 08:37 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


Brake pad experiment.
According to the Bendix catalogue DB1748 pads are indicated for the FLX but these are wickedly expensive in Australia so I looked into alternatives and on a whim ordered a cheap set of Protek DB1725 pads which have the bonus of being a very pretty blue.
What is a curiosity is a screamer tang is indicated for the DB1748 yet the original pads lack it, perhaps Proton cost cutting for the Australian market, a market which I've noted has a history of choosing variants of asian models that have the biggest engine but the lowest tech possible in most areas, possibly due to service people here being very good at lifting heavy things but turning into startled rabbits when seeing new technology.
Anyway these rather identical pads fit a Daewoo Kalos of a 2005-2009 vintage.
I hope they're nice and gentle on the rotors but I suspect the composition is much the same as the original, but they were less than half the price of the DB1748 and are a lovely blue.

To change pads all we need is a number 14 spanner.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image
wankel
post Dec 10 2014, 08:50 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(davidke20 @ Dec 9 2014, 11:35 AM)
Dude! That blue color pads look sick freakishly good! Report back on disc friendly in few weeks please rclxms.gif Regarding price tags, we don't get any cheaper than BOSCH OEM or Plotong original. Believe that DAEWOO compatible could have cost a bomb here doh.gif Mind u packaging is utmost important in my cuntry. As long its bluish & looks good, its consider performance rated part whistling.gif 1 can get an original pad, powder coat it RED & sell it as BREMBO pads here whistling.gif
*
Protex blue are what they are but it would just be an Aussie importer putting their brand on something from China. I haven't had a chance to bed them in yet but I'd forgotten about them when driving to the shop this morning until it dawned on me that the brakes were noticeably stronger, that make me very happy with the bother of changing them.
They're not designed for a high speed dash down Genting hill but then I'm an aging lazy driver who welcomes the little less effort to brake. I do love bling though and they're a very pretty blue. A bonus of being a pretty blue is I won't have any qualms about removing them to inspect and give them a clean to restore the pretty colour.

wankel
post Dec 12 2014, 09:58 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


Love the photos but a shame I can't see more numbers.
The ribbed belt wear surprises me, I think I should buy a spare sooner than expected but a question, mine has a 6pk1669 fitted, that of course would be made of unobtainium here, is the length such that a 1660 would be long enough not to be a bear to fit?

wankel
post Dec 13 2014, 05:23 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(davidke20 @ Dec 13 2014, 04:58 AM)
Just 2 days ago I was watching Avatar, had my hand itchy WIKIed about unobtanium and now you are using it laugh.gif I must say you are right, it's a rare breed for such length. However, the tensioner pulley is adjustable during belt change, hence I believe there will be certain tolerance for a slightly shorter/longer belt to fit in, but I wouldn't know whether the said number will cost you a cow to fit in the bear. blink.gif By the way, the belt only cost me RM50, your AU$15, is that reasonable?

It seems when it comes to parts whatever you pay in MYR is pretty near equal to what we pay in AU$, I source plenty of stuff from China to avoid the local profiteering but they do have a somewhat unfair advantage of subsidised freight.
My query was aimed at where the leeway was in fitting the belt but really I should check my own one, a bit of a shame there isn't much clearance to fit a square drive into it.

I put a set of iridium plugs into Daisy shortly after purchase, it looked good when I checked last week during its long awaited first service/oil change.

I'm a believer in using diesel oil but do rely on them having a spark ignition rating as well. You'll get away with the 20W in your lovely warm equilateral climate, and I would too in my mere tropical climate but low W numbers make sense to use.
Attached Image

I'd forgotten about Avatar using it, it's also a film that doesn't bear watching more than once. Unobtainium is a term I've used sometimes since I was young and employable.

This post has been edited by wankel: Dec 13 2014, 05:26 AM
wankel
post Dec 13 2014, 11:15 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(davidke20 @ Dec 13 2014, 12:29 PM)
The last time I use Iridium plugs lasted like forever in my old Mitshi 4G92p. But since I'm having a Kampro, I took the heat transfer into account. In view of COIL ON PLUG setup, provided a Fiber valve cover which makes a perfect combination of disaster. I'd rather stick to copper to prevent my coil packs get gelled. You may wanna consider my suggestion and revert back to copper core. It's not going to be pretty when you seek for the coil packsin your country, coz it aint easy even in the almighty GaGa own home land.
Joe u were using Iridium rite? hmm.gif
I anticipated Joe's problem when fitting the iridium and used some silicone grease on the upper end of the tube where the rubber bung seals, I'm hoping it may help to avoid that drama.
Thanks for the warning, I'm taking note.
I also think I could easily adapt pretty near any coil on plug to work.

wankel
post Dec 14 2014, 05:27 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(ruby1288 @ Dec 14 2014, 12:48 AM)
Pls anyone rekomen ur HL bulbs reviews....
*
These work, I got a pair and fitted to the high beam, lovely and bright unlike most. I've ordered another set for the low beam and expect then to run into error message time but I'll deal with that when/if comes.
I bought from ebay.
Attached Image
wankel
post Dec 17 2014, 11:01 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(iskazulka @ Dec 17 2014, 12:12 PM)
i thought you advise against change stock windscreen?  hmm.gif
*
I have a crack in mine so I'll have to change it soon enough, pity Daisy has only done 1000 km but that's life.
Meanwhile the wipers I choose to use are these from China
I fitted a pair to Daisy when new and I won't bother with the old type anymore, these are lovely and quiet and don't clunk when the wiper changes direction.

wankel
post Dec 17 2014, 11:26 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(iskazulka @ Dec 17 2014, 01:03 PM)
why don't just repair the crack?
*
Too long, I didn't see it early enough and it had a love of extending. I have used a dremel on it since and that seems to have stopped it by drilling a hole at the end of the crack to spread the stress. At least it's low down and not in front of me so I can wait until another rock inevitably gets thrown up onto it.


wankel
post Dec 17 2014, 12:39 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


I like the brake line, I'm thinking I should do a bit of searching and see if I can find something.
The write up about the windscreen was pretty right. It's actually a job I had a go at a fair while ago but my effort was woeful, not a job to bother with DIY unless there's a real reason.
wankel
post Dec 18 2014, 12:00 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


inline fours universally use 1342 for the firing order.
A point that may be overlooked is the Coriolis effect has on gas flow, the headers I've seen there are fine for use in the northern hemisphere which only has to be a metre over the equator but would be a fail south of the line, same principle applies for those intake swirlers, which I remain a bit curious about.
wankel
post Dec 18 2014, 12:33 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


You can swirl the bottle after you begin emptying and that certainly gives it a hurry up, it's why I like the theory.
The firing order is related to crankshaft layout, which is related to engine balance.
Balance too is a real minus for inline 4 cylinder engines, unless they have an infinitely long conrod balance can't be achieved, and the Lanchester balance system used in larger capacity 4s are fairly complex. Myself I'd prefer a three, a balancer if used is simpler and the shorter engine is better suited to fit into the engine bay, but for some reason makers and consumers are fairly allergic to them.
wankel
post Dec 18 2014, 07:22 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Sep 2014
From: Ingham NQ Australia


QUOTE(athrunzaru @ Dec 18 2014, 09:04 PM)
anyone here besides me cant wait for top gear's christmas special?
*
All of us I'd say.

Topic ClosedOptions
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0622sec    0.87    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 13th December 2025 - 10:04 PM