Thanks!! I've been looking for this but can't find it in my old files anymore. A lot of my old data is gone. (your memory have been erased. inb4 too much match movies  )

But this seems a bit different from the one I had previously ...

Anyways, yeah lar, 80K is supposed to be timing belt change which is why the SC changed it and I was expecting a heavy bill edi. And this was the reason why it was so hard for me to schedule as well, cause they need 1 full day to do it.

Is the FEAD same as timing belt + oil seals, etc? Or is that something entirely different which I wasn't supposed to change yet but they change it for me? That would explain the RM200 gap I'm still seeing.

saga using n60 ? just check my bonnet , size 45 i see?

Guy if my saga hit 6 month but only drive 5k since last service.

Need go change oil ?

wow, memang a family man's routine right there
i kadang2 only got follow ur kinda schedule if need send my adik to school when im back in hometown.
let my mum sleep in longer haha. but other than that, people wake up time is i go sleep time wakaka
i vegetarian, dont eat worm de.. 

tq for quoting unker davidke20

im currently using 4-1 system, so, it is correct what he mentioned liao. 4-1 more towards mid to end (good for those hunting top speed)
4-2-1 is low to mid (good for lower FC and most of the time at city traffic)

so now, thinking wanna use 4-2-1 but monneh... jilaka, can sumbody intro me to crony, so that can get easy money, charge 10x

depends on your right leg la, but definitely will get better FC, oh on insapla can tune to suit our mods , thanx to sifu k3nny
just stick with that cap ayam... it wont be too much different leh... normally they kopi pasta oso from good brand, unless u have some money to go for tonnka (r3 using them)  or supersakit, hotbits, etc

Haha, yeah, it's like parts of my life disappeared and never existed.   

Hmm, then the FEAD aircond belt is not in the list. I guess that makes up for the price difference already. Oklar, I guess. Still quite painful though.   
I also want to start selling screwdriver for RM40K edi ....   

i said worse in city driving becoz mine is 2" piping not stock already.
if u wan u wait me tukar i pinjam mine u go test test... but labor fee u sendiri tanggung...

your fault then, but can go buy used branded extractor.. fuel price increase, so many de-mod.. go buy leh
ok2, i sit far2 cry 

hmm, if cable rosak wont create spark d right, when +ve and -ve touches each other..
the battery i am current using is GP..
even the first battery also lasted me 1 year plus. well, maybe tomorrow get a new battery and try 
already tried to leave it more than 10 minutes still tak boleh..
hmm, no idea how to sound it out, just something like 'tek tek tek' without crank.
every 5k i do my service at proton SC, if it is due, they will change right.. also the car just 3 years++ only..
thanks for the information, will ask first before let them do

1) Load the bat3 before test, to check how much dry on your bat3
2) Load the bat3 when car started, check altenator jalan a not
3) Load the bat3 again after engine stop, to make sure your bat3 sure talak masuk cas baru konfirm KO

Its perfectly normal and according to standard bat3 checking procedure. Just that, whether did you open the sticker and check water 1st. If you did not check... there is a good chance workshop fella going to tear it off, top up bat3 water and sell 2nd hand bat3 for RM50/piece, and the new owner prolly going to enjoy 2nd hen bat3 up to another 1 ~ 2 years. In short, you rugi lah! *if the bat3 do running low on bat3 fluid the time it discharge quickly

No particular time table. If the original mentenen phree bat3 is working fine, then don't bother. Until it shows symphtoms like after long night cold start, starter doesn't kick in immediately. Something like you turn the key, it crank once " queek..." Silent turn the key again "wekekeke VROOM" baru start, this is typical sympthom of bat3 less than 12V. Then you cabut sticker(normally after warranty, if still within 1 year better go claim warranty), open the water cap & top up bat3 water.

After cabut sticker, the bat3 is no longer mentenen phree, need to check it regularly, like once a week. Lazy bugger may do it every oil change(5k)

The nickle plate still worth a few bucks can be clean up and recycle. Casing still can be recycle when they put in new nicle plate. Your case could be these facts:

1) Those plates has been running dry for too long, even you top up water doesn't channel enough ION to recharge itself. In short, died prematurely.

2) Those plates already died. That's all, better luck next time.

3) what is your normal travel distance? Normally I'll drive without air-con when I have a full discharged bat3(for example forgot to switch off headlamps), to recharge it 9 9 by driving it long distance to recharge it. If your plates not dead, it could be not enough charge... may be

Since change jor, then don't think too much lor

May be its not that bad lar Bcoz the meter can't tarek that much also. If he go load several time then your battery ady running out of charge, which means its not keeping charge well ady. You can imagine if you stop the car at night, it left 12.5V, but it discharge quickly, by tomolo it left 11.7V then you have hard time trying to crank your engine lor. I think load several time to scare you quickly change bat3 is very normal lar, even if this workshop doesn't do the next 1 also will do. But normally grease monkey like me, I'll ask him to load 1 time then let me see the reading by myself.

1) Stop car for more than 15minutes, get him load the bat3 to see how much left inside, should be around 12.5V
2) Start the car see how much it charge. 13.8 ~ 14.1 is very healthy alternator(no load, running idling speed)
3) Stop engine, immediately load the bat3 and see how much it drop.

Since change ady, nothing left you can do just enjoy the new bat3 and the peace of mind

But cvt fc not good as manual in city lor, i got about the same fc between cvt gaga and manual persona in city.

I wonder which one has lower cruising rpm, flx manual or cvt ?

woot.... 220km,  susah to accept, lol

So u come siram this thread to overtake Insapla tered issit? 

boss, signature length lol

=edit=
my god, we more femes than professor?

cannot be 

Has anyone here ever programmed a new key for an FLX? It seems information online about chip types and all is somewhat scarce. I'm talking about the transponder, not the remote, for which there is info available.

FYI,

For those that need to do a spare or lost a key.
If you want to do extra, the main and spare key must bring down also as they will erase all transponder codes.

Takan nak fly wankel all the way from Oz to Boleyland just to fabricate a new key aik

Open the door panel and check what is actually squeeking then only decide. Before that, check also whether striker plate wrapper ady broken, there's 1 layer of rubbery thing wrapped around the striker plate's hook to avoid your door grinding the lock whilst chassis flex, when that rubbery thing gone then it will squeek. Temporary measure will be use wire tape to wrap around the hook. Otherwise, getting a new strike plate will only cost you some RM18 iirc.