Has anyone noticed Wira prices going up? They are, but why? Does it have to do with covid and people not paying their bank loans and now they are blacklisted and need a cheap ride?

For the auto choke, the replacement parts are available and can buy easily from online platform, so overhaul it not a problem.

For the thermal valve, not easy to open it up. that was why I cut it off. I am not sure there is replacement part for overhaul the thermal or not, but the OEM replacement unit is not "super" expensive, buy online about MYR30 ~70, so just buy new one and replace it.

When you are selling, who typically pays for the inspection and fee to change ownership?

Hi. Anyone selling their manual 1.6 or 1.8?

Am trimming down on commitment during this period.

Thanks in advance.

Hi anyone here having aircond idling issues? Currently driving a 1.5MT Wira SE and everytime when I reached to a stop in traffic light with aircond on my car sure vibrates alot. But if aircond were all off everything was smooth. RPM around idle with aircond on is around 700-800. Also, I noticed that whenever turning on my aircond I feel the car's performance feel very sluggish, no problem with aircond off. Anyone having the same problem?

Have you changed the air-cond clutch, motor mounts and ECU? What is the history of those parts if you know it?

Found abit crack in my front engine mounting (radiator side) and i saw my radiator and engine is shaking alot with aircond on, but no problems with aircond off. stock vdo ecu never done any settings to it, air-cond clutch don't know. Everytime morning i start the car open the aircond everything feels ok (got the vibration but not strong). But as soon as i drive away and stop at the traffic light, then the vibration kicks in.

K0309,

Aircon lowers the idle but the ECU is supposed to raise the idle to compensate. Lower idle means more shaking. In my case, I had the same problem as you and instead of working on the 1.3 ECU, I bought a 1.5 ECU to get more adjustability options.

When the problem first started, Proton said the problem was motor mounts and changed them all. That helped a lot. Still, the idle would reduce and cause vibration and Proton said the ECU may need adjustments or even replacement. I opted to change to a 1.5 ECU and while the aircon would reduce the RPM, the ECU properly kicked in to raise it and so between those two repairs the problem ended.

The next year, the problem was back again and this time I went to an aircon shop and they said the compressor clutch (RM350) was dragging so much it was causing the vibration. They changed it and the problem ended and everything has been OK lately. Altogether that exercise was RM1000+.

There are two more items too, the fuel pump in the tank and the fuel filter on the firewall. I changed those but if performing poorly they can also cause lowered idle and therefore more vibration.

All the things I did fixed the problem and if I had to choose ONE, id choose motor mounts as Proton says they LOOK ok but lose their performance in less than 3 years, meaning they have to be replaced often for these symptoms. Im only guessing here but im basing on experience. For the ECU, Proton dealers have the computer to hook up to the ECU and know the right settings so you can also do that. Sometimes, the ECU does not respond to setting changes and then it means replacement. To my knowledge there is no repair for these from VDO and that has caused many people to tinker inside by themselves and that really messes things up. I hate to say it but there is merit to the idea to go back to carburetor! The reason is that when the car was new, FI was far better than a carb. But now with all the parts 20 years old and beyond their lifespan, its really difficult to fix FI, injectors, ECU, etc. and rebuilding a carb is quite easy with the kits, I will assume, more readily available and cheap. Otherwise, you just live with the problems, fix nothing, scrap the car when the doors and wheels start falling off by themselves.

This post has been edited by ChasV: Mar 5 2021, 05:40 PM

Does anyone know, when needle of the fuel meter stops moving, how to confirm the meter is the problem and not some other component?

try get a new Fuel Tank Gauge Float to test about it.. if you move the float then the meter doesnt move.. might is meter problem.

happy trying.

I took it to Proton since they had replaced the tank float and sender previously. They tested and confirmed it was the gauge. I found secondhand on Shopee for rm50 and changed it myself. All good now.

I kept the old one and couldnt see what was wrong. No loose connections or burned resistors. Ive searched and so far cant figure out the resistor values so I need an electronics shop to test and fix it if possible.

isit possible to DIY meter Digital motorcycle into wira carb? speedometer sensor maybe from kancil...



https://shopee.com.my/DUCATI-Speedometer-Di...51-3a7fcbc16c5f

meter myvi, owner DIY using speedometer sensor kancil facelift



edit, accidentally found video from shopee



https://shopee.com.my/product/280196845/6046178672

This post has been edited by croydon: Jun 9 2022, 04:04 AM

where can get this carb intake pipe?

gonna revive my late father's wira after hibernate since 2018



This post has been edited by croydon: Jul 27 2022, 11:08 PM

Hi, just to confirm the new wira pcv valve as per picture? KP201?
VDO/MMC same fitting? Tq

All Wira sold after covid? This topic seems to be quiet down already. hehehe...

this is caburator. you can find similar kind of air intake in Shopee

there is a seller in Shopee customized it.

on the road, also see less and less wira nowadays.

This post has been edited by Elf71: Jan 14 2024, 12:16 PM