yes.

more serious ones consider natural white vinegar, or specific water spot removers products.
most serious cases will require polishing or even compounding.

Ease of application - OCW
Durability - BSD
Value for money - BSD
Looks on dark coloured car - OCW
Looks on light coloured car - BSD
Beading - BSD
Slickness - OCW
Alkali resistant (car shampoo) - BSD
Acidic resistant (bird pop, etc.) - OCW
Dilutable - both

On top of 476, I'd prefer BSD...call me a cheap skate but I diluted 1:2 (1 part distilled water + 2 parts BSD)..
From my experience, 476 tends to be a bit finicky if applied on 'dirty' surface/application without prior polishing or 'deep cleaning' - streaky/cloudy, difficult to remove, etc. Best method I've found (to get the full benefit of it's durability), in terms of application, is to just dab a little then apply a section at a time, and keep applying on that section (without any pressure) until it turns *almost* clear....much like using a polish. But IT SOOOOO TIME CONSUMING!!! I mean it takes AGES (more like almost 2 hours) to wax my waja...and even then I just cant resist to take a few 'short cuts' towards the end.....    

To TOTALLY clean 476 on foam pads....Dawn Power Dissolver is your ONLY OPTION....

Is that factory painted paintwork ? Go to Ace Hardware look for the limited/not easy to find Meguiars M16. That is one of the best wax (for our climate) where you can find on the shelf...rest have to look for specific seller....

Last know for M16 is Rm106 now...lasttime was Rm74 then become Rm86..most likely most of the can you found will not in good shape (open up and check inside, if its good..take it asap)

Sound like you have heavy contamination on the surface and the product you applying cake up....suggest you to fully degrease and remote all the production on the surface, start with proper surface preparation then only apply LSP

Is this a Myvi ?

With poor protection and heavy door pour + no regular wash, watermark and dirty film will form...both black and white car have the same enemy...
Need to see factory paintwork quality, AFAIK certain batch white myvi have paintwork issue where very minimal/no gloss was mixed into the primer...any protection will not last long nor gloss level is low.

Did you prepare the paintwork (clay and polish) for waxing?
As for TW ICE, it sounds like the product is over applied. Also, TW ICE is a sealant, despite its name.

hey all the sifus here, would really love to seek advice from some of you here. 

im actually having issue on my white car actually, its a saga flx, yeah its a cheapo car but to me its my car hence i care about it haha. 

i mantain polishing and waxing every now and then all done by myself and even tried once detailing outside but it just seems that there will be tough dirt sticking on the clear coat or the wax i dont really know whats that called but i would really like to know what are the products that could prevent dirt from sticking on to my paint so that i dont really need to polish every 1month or so. AFAIK the normal suggested period for polishing and waxing should b around 3mths once if im not wrong hmm

anyhow, i washes my car every week whether rain or shine, using meguiars ultimate detailer and ultimate quik wax after drying up the car. but still, there will be black dirt stain after 1 week or 2 after polishing and waxing, what to do? 

For severe water etchings on paints, you'd need at least a mild polish or a compound, of which I haven't found any (decent ones) selling off-the-shelves at any departmental stores accept for Meguiars Ultimate Compound.  You can try Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound or any 'rubbing compound' but there are risks involved as these compounds are quite harsh and, if not properly used, could create their own damages. You'd most probably need to follow up with a mild polish to 'refine' the finish. I'm not sure what the soft99 (blue) that you're refering to, but Soft99 Meta Clean would be able to reduce the water etchings by removing most of the mineral deposits. But you'd still need to 'cut' the paint with a compound to remove the etchings (marks).

For glass, just be careful ESPECIALLY the front windscreen. You can try Soft99 Glass Compound Z or an acidic (liquid) cleaner like Tomcat. But if the windscreen/glass is already etched, better let a pro handle it. Glass is so much harder than paint and would require 'special' tools and products for proper 'polishing'.

Regards.

I think he's referring to this Soft99 polish:-


I have this too, not the best of polish IMO.

That one is an AIO (All In One) cleaner/polish/wax...very mild...not strong enough to remove even heavy water marks....

That one is an AIO (All In One) cleaner/polish/wax...very mild...not strong enough to remove even heavy water marks....

We use the word 'compound' for something that is very aggressive and 'polish' for something milder. A good analogy would be like using sandpaper. A compound would be the lower grit sandpaper (very coarse) and a polish would be the higher grit (finer) sandpaper. Under normal circumstances, after using the coarse sandpaper you'd need to follow up with a finer sandpaper if you want to get the surface smooth. Knowing the right method and technique is essential to get a good finish. In actual fact it is not difficult to do. What makes it difficult and, subsequently causing 'damages' is due to not knowing what you're doing. Google around, ask around, get to know how to do and what product can do what, then you're good to go.

I would bet that those 'promoters' haven't really tested their waxes in our country/region/climate. But, saying that, most waxes would/could last for one year...if the car is parked in a showroom and never driven out...