what is the last time u change power steering fluid?
i last time my steering got sound. the SC checked and they said it's because of the screw tightening the steering rack is loosen. after a while the sound reappears. after a while also, i changed the power steering fluid. the sound gone liao.
fyi, once a while power steering fluid need to be changed, just like EO, ATF fluid, gear oil etc. PS fluid still max does not justify no need changed.

if ur car is still under warranty, get it changed. if not, go to reliable under tree workshop and get it justified correctly.

Kiki dah join perkasa...dun play play..

Damn bengang

Guys,

Sounds wise to take a loan to buy rims?

Actually with JASMA certification is good, I remember that time when I brought my car in Japan for yearly inspection, my muffler have a paper cert with the printed number of the muffler which I can take along to show the officer if he wanted to authentic it. Best thing about there is not like here you go Puspakom need to change back to stock this and that. In Japan, their modding regulation is very detailed and clear. No matter which inspection center you go, all regulation is the same regardless which officer inspect you car. They follow black and white not like here...sometimes ok sometimes not ok. This can or not, that can or not...

I don't mind if 1 day malaysia have something like JASMA certification for performance parts, I'm willing to fork the price. At least I know I'm buying something that works and have standard.

Hi guys,

Long time lurker here. I owned a Proton Saga FLX 1.3 since Oct last year and recently, I noticed that there's a hairline crack on my windscreen. According to my friend, there are 2 layers of glass and in my case, the crack is only on the outside glass. No cracks on the inside. The approx straight length is marked by the red line.

At the moment, it stops growing. Should I be worried or do something about it?

That is 1 seriously powderful GaGa(or the driber is)

just added LED line bar for my GaGa few day back

1. "unplug" headlight


2. "unplug" headlight cover


3. put it back everything....done~


3 step only but took almost 3 hour -.-"

jangan fuiyoooo.. your also can become Mercedes fiesta
ya i feel cantik tooo.. especially when signalling,, will change from white to yellow (keep blinking)

won't la... why take 3 hour to do this? because need to heat up the "gum" (when the gum is heat up.. it will become loosen and take out the cover.) After finish.. need to heat up the "gum" again and put it back.. after that have to wait for 5~10min until the "gum" cool down.. it will lock tight tight and confirm won't masuk air...

the down side is.. proton headlight plastic cover is really bad quality... grip are not good >.<"

save modification money buy Vios better.

Wah...suddenly Seremban become a hot topic....tabuli ini machiem

Laminate it with UV film.

U r wrong, there are times that u bite the vios no eat.

Here's a situation, a car that is currently running optimal. Dyno proven 78whp, could fall back to 74whp if electric current disruption occurred, which its settings were reside at conventional RAM currently. In order to further improve its power output, below are the mod list that has proven on multiple dynoed vehicles.

1) Extractor:
A. 4-2-1 extractor to replace stock 4-1 short runner cast iron extractor, which its O2 sensor located at Y joint instead of cylinder 3. Expected power up 5whp
B. 4-1 long runner, which O2 sensor located at cylinder 3. Upside is, minimum mod is required, does not need to change O2 location & the product is cheap, widely available & compatible with all Campros. Down side is, O2 reading inconsistent. Low end & mid range compromised. Expected power up 3-5whp depending on RPM range.
2) Mid box:
A. Twin chambered resonator, to replaced stock single chambered resonator. Expected power up 0whp but to have even more silence output + benefit of force feedback due to long runner extractor got the tendancy of lag. Its expected to reduce throttle lag after extractor mod combined with twin chamber resonator.
B. Swirl flow bullet. Induce high suction power, great benefit for mid/high end. Cheap and widely available. Expected power up 1-2whp. Due to swirl flow design has some barrier, low end output/response is expected to be acceptably good, but exhaust noise will sound like FART. If u r not sure how it sound like, go to your kitchen, floot your sink and let loose of the clog. Pay attention towards the end of the water evac, that's exactly how a swirl flow sounded like.
C. Straight flow bullet. None blockage exhaust flow. Sounded garang and great benefit for mid/high end RPM. Expected power up 3-5whp on top end, but least expect on lower rpm range. Intense traffic condition on low RPM pickup could feel the car juddering if rear muffler is not well feedback.
3) Muffler:
A. Waja CPS single chamber twin tip muffler. Does not compromise with exhaust noise but induce higher exhaust flow compare to stock 3 chambered muffler. Benefit for after 4krpm. Expected power up 3-5whp depending on the extractor/mid box setup.
B. S-flow. Does what a straight flow do, less noisy and can benefit from mid/high end. Expected power up 5whp.
C. Straight flow. Has to be bundled with chambered mid box, otherwise power loss. If everything is setup properly, expected out put 5-8whp at top end.

The above are based on multiple vehicles input, stage by stage dyno test results. It could be bogus as dyno wasn't done on the same day. Note that temperature & humidity can affect engine output, given different fuel can produce different kind of result, hence the "actual" output is only meant for a rough reference. Take this "test" as a survey for future reference.

All the setup A are atleast 100-200 more expansive on each items if from the same brand. Full setup for A is atleast above 1400. As for the B & C, usually within 1000 can settle for stainless steel. If choose steel pipes, can fetch arnd 700 I believe.