both! 

im using 32GB*2, only shoot in raw
here is the reason why we learn edit

http://mobile.theverge.com/2014/8/18/60287...ce-release-date

Source: https://www.facebook.com/Sony.ImagingSEA/ph...?type=1&theater

then get A6000 

though, i'd prefer a touch screen over EVF on a (relatively) compact camera.

because of no dedicated focus point joystick like dSLRs, the touch screen functions as one. very convenient...

I had made a decision to buy A6000 in september (waiting price drop a little first), but then Sony launch A5100, really mess me up

A5100 pro :
1. 180" articulated screen for selfie
2. TOUCHSCREEN !!! (very important)
3. slightly cheaper at 700 usd (not important)

Con:
1. no EVF
2. slightly slower FPS (not really important)
3. smaller size

Why damn SONY always launching more camera body than lens ?!

Hi, going completely out of topic, though related to us all. What camera bag would you recommend for 2 A7 bodies, about 4 lenses and other items like tripod, flash, batteries, charger etc? How much would you budget for safeguarding your heavy investment against the dangers of the world?

standard for normal shooting....natural for wedding jobs...

It should be. Just don't expect it to make your pictures better by much (if at all).

For me a UV filter is simply to protect the front element of the lens from scratches and foreign contaminants (as I can can be a bit rough with my stuff). With a UV + some step up rings, my lens is sufficiently protected that I never really need a lens cap.

The minus side is it: a) Makes flaring worse, b) Introduces the risk of vignetting and c) Cuts down Image Quality - depending on the make and quality of the UV filter you use. Hence some of the more hardcore IQ purists don't bother with filters at all.

You gotta be ready to take out money for good filters. They go up to a few hundred ringgit. Zeiss, B+W, Hoya Pro1

I should be mainly using it for landscape, buildings and food? Also family/friends photo while going on vacation. RX100 is a good choice but not sure if I'll regret in the long term as I may be bored not being able to change lenses.

Yeah... Agree for the lens part. For me, I'm thinking maybe a zoom lens (probably the kit lens) that's versatile for day to day use, add a wide angle for landscape and a 28~50mm prime for portraits.

Factoring those in then it costs a lot more than a regular dslr size system.

Maybe will look into M43 and NX too. Fuji has some affordable offerings of body + kit lens but any additional lens costs a bomb. Even more expensive than E mount lenses but probably with better quality (I think... else why so expensive )

Anyway... Thanks for your suggestion. Will study more and see what fits my needs Already stucked with P&S and phone cameras for so many years, a few more month won't do harm

I always shoot in A mode. I choose the aperture and ISO and let the cam decide the shutter speed.

Program mode is like auto mode but you can adjust the exposure level as in you can choose to have the pic to be brighter or darker.

Like everybody else here, I'm definitely an A person - but I'm beginning to wanna try setting up the Memory Recall slots on the PASM dial.

As for shooting at 3200, I say better noise than missing the shot.

That said, I've found that in normally lighted indoor situations with an f4 (or more) OSS lens, you can make do with setting auto ISO up to 1600 if the noise is too much for you at 3200 - the OSS keeps things steady up to 1/10-1/4 (with jitter-free hands of course)..

Under worse conditions, however, even 1600 is generally not enough already, even with OSS. If you shoot a lot indoors you might wanna invest in a flash to be able to use lower ISOs and thus get better pic quality.

OR... when you're forced to shoot at 3200 and you're totally bothered by the noise, you can always convert to B&W (afterwards or in camera using RAW + JPG with the BW picture style) and pretend it's film grain lol. At least details are still not smeared much at 3200 (compared to my old A200 - it already turned everything to flat pastel by 1600).

Try limiting  the auto ISO to 1600 for a bit and see if you can work with the range of shutter speeds you get. Oh and maybe you might wanna stick with your SEL35 if it's seriously dark - f2.8 on the 35 is enough for most dark snaps, and it helps that you have 1.8 available for emergencies.