and welcome~

flycam or stabilizer rig.... issue fixed.

FullHD is only 2mp. so imagine the 12mp scale down to 2mp.

i dont know your video style... a lot running movie? or static handheld from where you sit?.... a lot will factor into the shake of the video. there is also post-processing stabilizer (software base)

if your video does a lot walking, grab a flycam.

hello, Sony Batt are Li-ion.....

yes, all rechargeable battery cannot be 100% flat. once it become zero, the battery is dead, only with special device or high end charge 'may' short it to bring it back to life (no guaranty).

shooting for 5 years, never removed it. but will always check the % before leave house.

*edit: before someone make a joke out of it, no, i still remove it for charging... not as if the batt is inside the camera for 5 years without charging.

the Zig Zag is normal. the sound is noticeable with all my lens, on the 35, the aperture is much bigger then other lenses.

i. the sound is due to wider aperture lens, F/1.8 is a really wide aperture. the 'distance' for the aperture to close down from F1.8 to F4 is more then F3.5 to F16, hence the distances means louder and longer obvious noise.
DSLR/SLT aperture create the same noise too, just that mirror flaps and shutter sound is too loud that you wouldnt able to heard it.

ii. why there is a zigzag to begin with? it only happens when you focus... the aperture will open widest it can to focus because it will need all the light it can get to focus. and will close back down to the aperture you are on (eg, F4), and if you notice, when closed down, the Liveview will show a little more noise in darker environment due to the light gain on F4(or darker) for liveview. DSLR only closes the aperture during shutter release because if its close down full time, imagine a F8 optical viewfinder, its going to be really dark.

but if you shoot wide open like F1.8-F2.2, you will hardly hears it.

This post has been edited by edpaul: Aug 10 2014, 12:12 AM

3rd party ah? KYSHAM. XD

yes it does trigger WL flash via adapter like A900/850/A77/II. confirmed by me

the ARW file, are Proprietary format to Sony. (same as crw for canon and nef for nikon)... they do not release the codes to public, and require very special license to use the codes. Only the Original Software develop by the own company will have full support to the ARW file. from a proper exposure control, to Color Profile, to Dynamic range control, to picture effect (canon)

Adobe does not have the license to operate ARW files, so adobe uses the closest color palettes chart to read them. hence you will Never get Sony color out from 3rd party software. so does canon and nikon, which many, even pro photographer doesnt notice that, only pure editors know only... so they operate on default 'flat/neutral' tone and adjust the color to their liking (split toning). very advance editing methods.

(that the reason i dont shoot raw, i shoot jpeg and learn to process the jpeg at its limit)
unlike car, no, it doesnt have a maintenance schedule.... just general self 'wear and tear cleaning'. all the compartment inside are designed to last quiet a long time. 5 year old A300 still running over 150,000 clicks...

in my case of shopping, its a little different. i wouldnt skimp a place for 50 ringgit cheaper, for the reason, i rather give the sale person a little extra to earn(commission?)... while i bully him kao kao... ok, im joking bout bully.... i make fun of the sale person in a good way, so i will leave a deep impression(charisma skill), then when i return and he'd recognize me... and he will automatically give me best price without asking. a few more visit and he will introduce to other sale person or maybe manager. soon, i'll be VIP of the shop with automatic best discount. but i haven been hauling anything (big) since nov 2012... only battery (best price rm150 type M)

there is some camera color profile can be downloaded, it will give near, very near color to Sony's. i misplace mine coz i hardly use raw.

did u mean,

"3rd party company" has no access to Sony's Color via their Raw files?"

i dont know if there is any company come close or actually has the fullcolor table of the Sony raw data file... but its just color, a lot photographer will edit or use present to adjust the color effect at the end of day, just play around more it could create new style or even create a signature style like kenhui... where is stanley anyway? haven seen any of his post lately....

the SEL1018 F4 is a VERY sharp lens. (was very surprised with the result i tested on A6000)

16F2.8 is average sharp lens, like a kitlens sharpness

16F2.8 UWA adapter... terrible iq (no idea why)

16F2.8 FE adapter.... nice and sharp and fun to play with.

surely the price for the 16F2.8(2nd hand) with UWA adapter(new) can easily get for less then 1k compare to the 1018 cost nearly 3k for new. but the 1018 will worth every cent you spend. spending 3k will give u 3k value of sharpness.

variable ND, is 2 polarize lens facing each other to cut off light(frequency)by canceling each other out.

it is KNOWN that polarizer doesnt work on ULTRA WIDE ANGLE (20mm and wider on FF, or 15 and wider on APSC)

why doesnt it work? its a physic question that is fixed, no known fix for it yet, might never will.

only way to purely drop huge stop of light is proper ND filter like LEE big stopper.... stacking several piece of 3 stop filter is bad idea too, it will cause (depend on brand) color cast (tint) like purple or red.

Dear Pay Ng. its not angle of light, but the angle of light wavelength. polarizer works with wavelength, not angle of light dude. wavelength is under Physics.... due to the angle of wavelength travels from the side of the lens angle, the polarizer were unable to cut off the angle of wavelength, hence it did not cut off the light as it suppose to.

as for the Variable ND, u will get X-crosses effect at certain angle on UWA due to the angle of light wavelength escape the polarizing.

do u wan banana?

note: not aiming at you, but in general, why does ppl think 16-20mm is comparable to a 10-18 ultra wide angle? totally diff thing, totally diff effect, totally diff impact on the photo.


uraki: 16mm also no OSS.

and generally, i dont understand why ppl generalize 16mm as not sharp(corner)? at F2.8, generally all wide angle arent sharp in corner due to distortion via deflection in the lens group. all wide angle requires to stop down to gain corner sharpness... even the famous sharp tokina 11-16 is soft in corners until stopped to F8. even SEL1018 requires to stop down a little more to gain prefect sweet spot.

*removed*

Danny Bong (in charge of workshop) confirmed that the whole workshop is free (workshop and accomodation) forgot to ask about the food thou .

as a reminder, bring your Camera(batt and charger), Lenses, Flash(flash workshop), and Tripod (for night shooting).

This post has been edited by edpaul: Aug 17 2014, 06:09 PM

before that, mind i ask your purpose? sound very fishy and un-practical your method of photography/videography.

also, the information you gotten/read from online is imcomplete and a little misleaded.

from your information, not sure if u are trying to do IR videography or something weird.

lens filter (the circular filter directly on the lens)
square filter (those Cokin, tianya, Lee, Singh-ray, rosco)
filter holder (use to hold the square filter)
filter(holder) adapter, used to screw on the lens, then used to hold the square holder.

i. before going deeper into ND stuff. lets talk bout the CPL, since ray cant give a proper english explanation that everyone can understand.

the variable ND, is by stacking two cpl, facing each other (meaning the other piece is Flipped) to work, by canceling each other other. by stacking the 3rd piece (flipped opposite of the 2nd flipped piece, noone tested it or no report of this test yet) i assume it will completely block up everything up to crazy amount of stop like 20-30 due to the multiplying effect or it may has no special effect because the 3rd pieve and 1st piece will work the same as following;

as for putting 3 cpl facing the same side, nothing special will happen, the CPL will work at the highest polarizing effect, meaning it will polarize as much as any One of the highest polarizing angle CPL piece. say the 2nd piece is set at 90degree highest polarization, while the other 2piece is at 20degree and 45 degree, the image will polarized at highest of that 90degree. (i tested it)
but, you still can get stop reduction (light cut off) but its kinda pointless as it cause heavy color lost and u get weird color all over the places.

ii. like william said, stacking too much lens filter, will prologue out the front causing vignetting. even by using step up filter, the stepup filter itself already prologue 2mm outwards from the lens, wide angle lens definitely will catch that filter and cause vignetting. but base on your case, wide open aperture will be even worst vignetting.

iii. lets say you are using some magically technique and solved the vignetting issue. stacking many ND filter will work only if you do more research on the ND filter brand itself. u said ND are expensive, for a reason, they have minor color cast for the branded and expensive... B+W 77mm 10 stops ND costs US$149 in bhphoto, thats still under 500myr!, Lee big stopper rm7xx. if u get those cheapo china tianya, or the cheaper alternative cokins or 3rd party lens filter(circular) you going to have bad time trying to fix the color cast on post processing!

i used to have the b+w 10 stop before(sold it and upgrade to Lee). the biggest issue with the filter is, your camera cant even FOCUS (meaning losing ability to focus), nor your (assuming A7s?) will show bright image over the LCD, it will struggle to light gain it of 10 whopping stop! our sensor feed only manage best at 7-8 stops of light lose... but you can try~ because i myself had not testing it with A7s, but general experience lead me to the idea it will struggle to work...

then u have to unscrew to focus, then screw back to shoot, a very tedious and troublesome method, that why a lot ppl end up buying square filters system as it can take out and put back with ease.

my answer is base on experience where spec sheet will never able to show what outcome you will get. experience will let u know before buying the wrong shit and realized it dont work practically.

v. might i ask why 10/13/16 stops of ND? thats a lotttttt! from what i know, a) i used 50F1.4 with only 3 stop and i dont get any issue shooting under daylight assuming you not getting a 30sec exposure, and im not even sure b) i would avoid directly sunlight as the harsh shadow is ugly, i will have some assistance holding a 120x80mm white/translucent reflector to cover the sun, giving a diffused light over subject.

vi. this bugged me a while. IR is a deep subject. you can skip the explanation. the short answer, UV and IR has no effect on digital camera. another long explanation how those 720nm IR filter works.

hence the filter you buy, when it doesnt mention IR filter or UV filter, it doesnt matter, its a old marketing way. that why branded filter company like b+W brand their coating as MRC (multi-resistant coating), not MC-UV like -other china company does.

so, IR is not relevant to filters.



But, indirectly, it is relevant for filter trying to cut off more then 4 stops. because color cast is caused by the IR light. cheap filter doesnt filter out IR properly hence it got the red/magenta color cast(IR spectrum)... and sadly, no filter company in the world reveal their chemical for the ND effect that tells you the amount of IR cutoff.

so by getting cheap or wrong ND filter, u end up cutting out normal visible light and becomes more and more like IR image due to the escaped IR light through the filter.

i only could say, only Lee Big Stopper has near complete neutral cutoff.


answer more later, back to work first.

This post has been edited by edpaul: Aug 19 2014, 02:44 AM

im not familiar with Slog2 system, so, i wouldnt know how to get around it. sorry. at first i had a assumption that you doing IR video, because it has very similar case.

to be honest, you're going to do a lot testing on a lot filter before you get to the right ND filter. i lack of the experience to advise how the filter will react and cause what kind of color shift on high iso video when stacked more then 2 ND filters. iso itself will struggle and might read the wrong color. this doesnt worry me, what really worries me is when the stop are so high, the AF refuse to work (even contrast detect)... and the feed to LCD may turn pitch black too. not sure with A7s, but the last best sensor was the sony 24mp turn black display at 10stop(lee big stopper) facing the sun (sunset shot)



if its on 24mm, i dont know which 24mm its going to be, i assumed its not sony since sony doesnt has any F1.4 24mm. the step up filter doesnt do any good. because each lens is design differently and the requirement of filter clearance are diff. but please do consider square/holder system. There are holder system are design to avoid vignetting for UWA(with few condition too).

other case is, vignetting is a big subject, you might avoided filter vignetting entirely(not sure the correct word to use it), but u cant avoid a very natural soft vignetting that cause by F1.4, even without filter. so, you will required to do some post processing towards it, or, leave it alone since natural vignetting is kinda nice too, it helps to pop the subject in center.

lets Assume you are using 35mm, i will say you are safe from filter vignetting, but the natural F1.4 vignetting will still occur.

*correction, when we/i mention filter vignetting, i'm assuming a hard black mark on 4 side of the image even at F8. meaning the filter used prologue into the filter clearance. not the natural vignetting cause by the barrel itself.



before getting out of hand, lets use the word "screw on filter" circular may lead to diff misunderstanding type of 'effect' filter.
The answer would be simple, some branded holder filter system are designed to work with UWA. hence, its pretty much 'safe' to use. for example, the LEE holder, the adapter ring has 2 type, UWA adapter and standard adapter. the UWA adapter will bring/pull/push/???? the holder backwards, giving more clearance at the front. (try google it)



The crisscross effect happen in UWA and at certain degree of the VND filter (turn-able), usually happens when you overturn till the max at 9 stops. i wouldnt recommend it for your usage, because it will introduce a lot of new possible issue/problems along the way. but if you insist, Do Not Buy ANY Brands of VND.... except, LightCraft Workshop. LCW. dato lee chong wei filter. hehehehe joke aside. it is known as the BEST and mother of VND. very pricey thou. its like buying two B+W KSM CPL MRC Nano filter. close to 1k for the 77mm pro version. thinking to upgrade my version I to version II for a long long time, but pocket empty... and btw, LCW has came out with a 100mm square VND (design for Lee square CPL holder), and i have totally no idea how it works... i suspect its a linear PL.

sadly to tell you,... the limitation of square holder to work on UWA is maximun of stackable filter are TWO...



color case happen when u stack certain resin filter aka Square type and certain brands... no matter its long or short exposure, the color cast will be there, its the issue of that chemical used, the ability to reduce visible light may be incomplete leaving certain type of light escape through. this you really have to try it out yourself. so you gotta make many photographer friends to see who has the b+w ND1000 and borrow to test it.


btw, there are many terms to ND, some put 10stop or ND1000, or 3.0. you will need to read up a little how they catagories them. the 3.0 actually means 10 stop, they calculate by 0.3 as 1 stop, hence 3.0 is 10 stop. the 1000x also mean 10 stop, but im not sure how they calculate it.

.... now.... come to settle your problem, F1.4@3200 with 1/50 at bright day light. honestly... stacking 2 ND filter isnt such great idea as it will create a lot limitation especially when using more then 10stops. my best advise, may sound very absurd so i apologies first, but, you can use a single 10stop, and not sure if its possible, coz i dont know its a controlled video environment or chasing around actual day wedding shoot with is not within your power to control, you can try choosing the right time/moment of the day when the sun isnt that harsh, eg early morning. but if its uncontrollable then sorry i dont know how to advise you. but i hope my explanation will clear up some doubt and question you had.

btw, it is okay for you to explain what/how slog2 works? maybe we can refine a solution from there.

This post has been edited by edpaul: Aug 19 2014, 03:10 AM

so, is it possible to use neutral color profile(reduce contrast, saturation to flat), setting dro to level 3 (to lower contrast even more) and adjust contrast/saturation accordingly? and since at such low iso at 100, it shouldnt be any noise issue by dro gain? i think it might work since if you are doing color grading later, it should cause any big issue since its shot in low iso.

edit: then u wont have issue needing a 12stop filters.... a 10 stop will do just fine? then u might only need a 6 stop ND, then your AF might just work without problems and LCD feed maybe viewable?

This post has been edited by edpaul: Aug 19 2014, 03:58 AM

this is the part im getting confuse. when u mention native iso3200, it means the highest native is 3200 right? because below that, those 1600 down to 200 is considered native iso too. right? need albert to verify this...