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 New Honda City 2014 v03, 63+ LYN so far~ Getting Stronger

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ZeroSP
post Jul 24 2014, 01:53 PM

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As I said and quoted in first post, when it is time kindly change your CVTF to Honda Japan premium one.

And oh... That's bad stalking for you matrix
ZeroSP
post Jul 24 2014, 02:21 PM

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QUOTE(Matrix @ Jul 24 2014, 02:16 PM)
Wei...don't simply summon me, you think i am genie in a bottle ah??

*Poooffff***(go back into bottle)
*
:Okayface.jpg:
ZeroSP
post Jul 27 2014, 07:31 PM

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QUOTE(Ree73 @ Jul 25 2014, 03:29 PM)
anyone found any new features in OBD II for city?

I notice:

When P - it unlock
When D - it lock
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See if it is programmable... Find it in your manual.
ZeroSP
post Aug 5 2014, 05:37 AM

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QUOTE(calvin @ Aug 5 2014, 03:13 AM)
Can anyone confirm that the rear speakers are weaker in terms of volume compared to the front sets ?
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Did you touch the fader settings?
ZeroSP
post Aug 7 2014, 06:37 AM

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QUOTE(Fantasytan @ Aug 7 2014, 01:35 AM)
Reporting in.. whistling.gif
Fantasytan/V Spec/Modern Steel Metallic/Klang@Selangor
*
notworthy.gif
ZeroSP
post Aug 14 2014, 11:45 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Aug 14 2014, 11:00 PM)
Honda uses 0w-20 for the City?? shocking.gif
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The 0W-20 is fully synthetic meant for their hybrids... But then...
ZeroSP
post Aug 16 2014, 06:02 AM

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Guys, anyone of you could take out your owner's manual and find out what CVTF they are using for this City?

Previously I have been recommending Honda MMF Ultra (Premium) for CVTF replacement, it seems that City and Fit is using new generation CVT that might comply with the latest Honda HCF-2 Ultra.

This post has been edited by ZeroSP: Aug 16 2014, 06:05 AM
ZeroSP
post Aug 16 2014, 04:10 PM

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QUOTE(ahsam1212 @ Aug 16 2014, 10:59 AM)
HCF-2 is correct.
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Really? Ok... Then it will be slightly expensive to get the HCF-2 Ultra.
ZeroSP
post Aug 19 2014, 06:11 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Aug 19 2014, 06:09 PM)
Ei I ask alomajong come lipot kaw u then u noe!!  vmad.gif
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Can't help but LOL at this.
ZeroSP
post Aug 20 2014, 01:39 AM

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Go buy and change HCF-2 Ultra la guys + install a CVTF cooler.

This post has been edited by ZeroSP: Aug 20 2014, 01:41 AM
ZeroSP
post Aug 22 2014, 11:09 PM

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My friend just got his Modern Steel V Spec this morning... Checked through for him, only the front compartment box slightly loose, the rest is fine.

Being me, popped up the engine bay, saw the big HCF-2 wording at the transmission... And then realized, the hell no dipstick? So that means every CVTF fluid change must go back to SC or until find out where to put in.

No dipstick = Cannot check fluid level = Somewhere else to pour in
ZeroSP
post Aug 24 2014, 05:38 PM

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Fantasytan Time to post up your photos bro...
ZeroSP
post Aug 24 2014, 06:36 PM

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Just to share how the coil mat and Mugen pedals (imitation la of course) looked in New City. Fantasytan

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image
ZeroSP
post Aug 28 2014, 10:15 PM

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QUOTE(Ree73 @ Aug 28 2014, 05:00 PM)
polish and wax, some ppl might say you pay other to scratch your car monthly?

That is why I choose coating in the 1st place. 1 coat to last 3-5 years. If average out, it is on par or even cheaper than wax
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Good point, how much can you really polish your car? You guys need to learn one or two on detailing before commenting that it is pointless to do a coating and maintain it. And coating has different composition and properties.

I bring out my 5 years old ride, see whether a new car condition is better than it? All I do is a weekly wash by myself, using the right way and a product that is suitable (to own preferences).

This post has been edited by ZeroSP: Aug 28 2014, 10:16 PM
ZeroSP
post Aug 28 2014, 10:18 PM

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QUOTE(putindog @ Aug 28 2014, 10:17 PM)
Sounds great. Can share how to use it? Apply wax first and then apply this polymer coating?
Need to wax again after applying polymer sealant?
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That is a polymer sealant, not coating.

If you plan to put any wax, put the sealant down first as base, then only top with wax. You always let the cheaper wax layer be the sacrificial layer.
ZeroSP
post Sep 6 2014, 05:48 PM

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QUOTE(homicidal85 @ Sep 5 2014, 03:57 PM)
you sure? my SC say default is mineral oil. if want semi-synth, add rm50, if want fully add rm100.
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Default is Mineral.

Both 0W-20 and 5W-40 are Fully.

For normal driving, 0W-20 will be good.
ZeroSP
post Sep 6 2014, 08:58 PM

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QUOTE(Baohulu55 @ Sep 6 2014, 06:10 PM)
Can I just use the normal one instead of synthetic oil?
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It is all up to you. You pay what you get in the end. You can always try synthetic once and see if you feel the oil is worth the price you pay.

IMHO, there is no harm is using a good/better oil for your engine in the long run.
ZeroSP
post Sep 6 2014, 09:01 PM

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http://star-motoring.com/News/2014/Honda_M...for_safety.aspx
ZeroSP
post Sep 6 2014, 09:44 PM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 6 2014, 09:08 PM)
Actually the 0W-20 is not a genuine fully synthetic oil. It is a highly refined Group 3 hydrocrack oil whereas the 5W-40 is a genuine fully synthetic oil made out of polyalphaolefins (most fully synthetic group IV oil are polyalphaolefin oil).

In countries like Germany or Japan... Oil maker cannot label their oil as fully synthetic if it is made out from group 3 oil.

This explains the huge price difference between the 0W-20 and 5W-40 oil.

Anyway.. The 0W-20 is already a very good oil for normal usage.
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Yes... The only thing is the 5W-40 from Honda is still only API SL certified. But no harm I know, I have been using that all the way before the warranty ended, it is pretty much a good oil.
ZeroSP
post Sep 7 2014, 03:22 AM

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QUOTE(Alex Chillax @ Sep 7 2014, 12:07 AM)
One of the Honda SA told me not to install the OEM reverse camera due to the system firmware.

Is anyone facing any problems with your reverse cam?

Where can I get a good deal for the reverse cam in selanfor/kl?

Thank you!
*
EA Autoworks.

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