This is seed we're talking about here, the backpack is the main character, the suit is only an accessory.

Its done to coincide with nightingale, back to back release to boost sales.

Hi nu is not very detailed (at least by new ver ka standards anyway). Clearly this is not because they cant do it as evident by nu n sazabi, my guess is that bandai already had in mind for ppl to pose nightingale and hi nu together and they dont want 1 kit to completely out class the other in terms of aesthetics to avoid looking out of place. With that in mind, it isnt too far fetch to suggest that bandai had planned all along to release both kit back to back to boost sales n maximizing profit off of fans of Beltorchika's Children and or Amuro/Char fanbois.

As for why its not tandem nov/dec instead of aug/sept that we do not know. With 2 new gundam anime airing soon one of them could be made into dec kit, or it could be an even more ridiculously big n expensive kit yet to be announce. We will know soon enough.

To coincide with Origin OVA?

Well the hole in that theory is that the Origin OVA is a 4 episode show detailing the early lives of Char up to the Battle of Loum. RX 78 hasnt been made yet at that time, if u want to shoehorn it in then i suppose it could make a cameo at epi 4, but that is still at least 2 years away judging from all the projects in their hand right now and taking Unicorn release time as benchmark. Highly unlikely it'll be next year.

Plus im not so sure about Bandai interest in RX78 ver origin to be honest. The manga has long been concluded, if they wanted to release 1 they would have done it years ago at the height of the manga popularity. And there is plenty of opportunity too in years past, 3.0 could have been an origin ver, during the 2.0 era an origin ver could be made as well instead of 10 zakus. If Bandai truly has interest in it, i see no reason for it to take this long in the 1st place.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Aug 8 2014, 01:30 AM

There is no discernible difference between the 2. The OVA ver was release to fix the knee bend flaws of the original ver ka, the rest r just minor aesthetics. FAU already includes the knee fix so there is no reason to have another version of FAU, besides if u wan OVA version well just remove the javalin and woila. Unless of course u r very particular about anime accuracy and the missing tiny vulcan drives u nuts.

Correction: FAU ver ka already includes the knee bend fix. Its missing the head vulcan and fix open/close horn v fin.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Aug 8 2014, 01:53 PM

U were going in with an unrealistic expectation in the 1st place. Its a plastic model kit, an unpainted straight build of course look like plastic. Model kit is meant to be assemble piece by piece of course its fragile. Model kit is meant to be build, set a pose n be left alone 95% of the time, the appeal is not how much u can play around with it but how well it looked and that depends on ur attention to details, ur effort in putting in the finishing touches, ur skill in circumventing the kits shortcoming. Every model kit be it gundams, jet fighters, war ships, bikes, cars, etc is the same. U want playability, u want solidity, u want high details straight out of the box, then model kit is not what u should be looking at in the first place. Instead what u should be looking for is Metal Build or Robot Damashi or MSIA.

U dont expect bean paste to taste like 3 star michelin cuisine straight out of the can now do u?

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Aug 12 2014, 10:58 AM

Metal Build the inner frame is diecast for the most part, but the rest is still plastic. It will not survive a 1 story fall or being bang around by a child role playing with it. For all its worth, MB is a notch more durable then MG but not by much. Take into consideration, most gundam is wielding a completely unnecessary overweight giant weapon of death that defy the laws of physics. It may be made of stronger materials but at the end of the day the joint still rely on friction and has no real structural and or functional mechanic to keep it in place, holding those weapons is a detriment to the joint in itself, compounded by the fact that if u play with it the faster it deteriorates. So take that into consideration.

On the point of realism, how realistic is a 20m tall giant robot of doom with pew pew lazer powered by sparkling magic dust piloted by hotblooded angsty teens who would not have otherwise pass basic military test to even qualify to operate a microwave oven let alone a military asset? So why bother nitpicking on minute and inconsequential details like unreal metal when clearly nothing is real to begin with. Its a model kit its meant to be looked at as a display piece, the point is it looked like 1 not function like 1.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Aug 12 2014, 12:31 PM

He already has reservation about plastic kits durability, fragility and posseability, PG00 is the among the worse offender in those category. He is better off spending those money on MB. Heck i'll rather get the MG then the PG and spend the leftover for other kits.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Aug 12 2014, 12:33 PM

The cement will melt the plastic to bond the 2 pieces 2gether, the excess plastic will ooze out and u have to sand it away. Everytime when sanding is involve u'll have to either

a) paint
b) polish
c) both

When u sand/polish, the decals will be destroyed in the process. After u sand there will be scratch marks everywhere and it will have to be covered with paints. Since u dont plan to paint it to begin with and to top it off u already decal it, its better for u not to glue it at all.

Decals should be the 2nd last step. Unless u plan to buy aftermarket decals to replace the current ones, u might as well proceed to top coat it and just finish it as is. No point going back several steps to glue and sand now. Learn from this and plan ahead better next time.

Froasting effect. Cause by high humidity and cold temperature resulting in the coating to dried up unevenly on the surface and in some cases dry up in mid air while leaving the can (we call this webbing). What u should have done is top coat it on a sunny day and dip the can in warm water for 5min before spraying (note: warm, not boiling). Also not over do it and spray it at a distant at least an arm length away.

Way to fix:
a) completely strip off the coat with alcohol or paint thinner and redo. However all ur decals will be destroyed in the process.
b) use an airbrush and spray a light layer of paint thinner. The thinner will re-thin the coating and giv it some extra time to settle down and spread evenly over the surface b4 drying. (note: do this only with an airbrush, u want to apply the thinner like a mist). No fuss no mess, just add a layer of thinner on top and voila, only if u hav an airbrush of course.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Aug 12 2014, 08:40 PM

1. Nightingale design inherently restrict movement, no amount of joint will ever circumvent this. Redesigning Nightingale will solve this problem but fanbois will rage, being faithful to original design fanbois still rage. Apa lagi fanbois mau?

2. A kit this big, having more joint is not necessary a good thing. At the end of the day this is still just pieces of plastic slap on together held up only by friction. Joint offers no real mechanical and/or structural support, its just there for aesthetics. Everything is friction dependent and that can only go so far. Hav u seen how big the shield n the riffle is? A normal joint will collapse under its own weight. Unless of course u r implying that Bandai can defy the laws of physics.

3. What kind of pose do u wan to subjugate it with in the first place? Is too back heavy for a stand and too big for most display shelf, standing is the only realistic pose u can do with it. Unless u r implying that Bandai can defy the laws of physics for the 2nd time.

4. This RE line is meant to be the replacement for NG. Its meant to be cheap and simple in construction so that obscure kit from msv could be mass produce, these kits is not expected to sell in droves since the target market audience is niche and having super refine super rigid joint with tons of time being poured into R&D as if its a MG defeats the purpose. Even with such simple approach Nightingale already cost 8000 yen, how much do u think it'll cost if the joint were as well define like MG would? If it cost 9000 or 10000 yen would u buy it, and even if u did how many gundam fans out there are willing to? Not many younger audience who grew up post Seed gives a crap about MkIII or Gerbera Tetra.

Judge it for what it is, its a RE not a MG so dont expect anything spectacular. If u buy a proton dont expect it to outrun a v12 aventador.

Doent matter if there is a sliver of truth or a bucket of lies, heck it doesnt even matter if the kit itself appeared in Shizuoka. If there isnt a concrete release date printed on the tag then things may (and in some case did) change, let alone a mere rumor.

My advice is hold ur horses n dont get so exited prematurely, besides there isnt a reason to pre-order anyway. Bandai has nvr truly discontinued their releases, even kit as old as Zaku 1.0 are still being produce once in a blue moon. No reason to throw ur money on stuff u know will eventually be flooded on the market and can get easily after a month or 2 of release date.

P Bandai dont really offer new kits and also doesnt occupy the 1 kit per month slot so P Bandai releases technically doesnt count.

Infact even if u take the MG P Bandai stuff and release it as normal kits, the line this year is still highly disappointing considering the tons of other new kits that could be made by tinkering abit of already existing mold like the rest of the wing boys or Geara Zulu or Delta gundam. Or even fan favorite Jegan with huge milking potential. P Bandai deserved to be criticize but I wouldnt go so far as to lay all the blame solely on it.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Sep 6 2014, 12:41 AM

I disagree. You wouldnt want to start on PG or big/transformable/ver ka MG or even RG. The level of financial commitment u have to put up on those is not worthwhile for a newbie to experiment on. Newbie mistake is inevitable and committing those on HGs is less painful to ur wallet then on MGs/PGs/RGs. A a gunpla virgin, it is always recommended to try HG 1st. SD is a little too simplistic, not gonna learn much if at all imho.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Sep 17 2014, 08:31 PM

lack of variety is also an issue.

thats true.

The most important aspect of a cutter (and blades) is sharpness. No matter how expensive a cutter is, once its edge has been dulled it'll be no different then any cheapo brand cutter. Think of the long term cost, a good cutter cost 100 bucks, a cheapo 1 cost 5 bucks, I can keep replacing 20 cheapo cutter for the price of 1 good cutter. In my experience it doesnt even matter if it were abit dulled really, the proper technique here is dont cut too close to the parts, deliberately leave abit of excess nubs and let the blade/sand paper do the more intricate cleaning. Or u can even cheat abit by using decals to mask over imperfections, just assume it as some creative liberty on ur part.

Just look at pics from Dalong and choose which u like, HGs r generally easy to build and relatively cheap, cant go wrong with any1 to be honest. (well apart from dendrobium and neo zeong that is).

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Sep 17 2014, 10:30 PM

Ex-S looks good but its not very posable. Its meant for standing there forever in 1 pose looking cool.

FAZZ is not a good kit. Its old, out of proportion, articulation is almost nil, and things fall apart easily. Some parts are not even in the correct color.

i hope it comes with these as accessories.


I dont c how its gonna work without extra reinforcement, all the extra weight is already stressing the plastic to its limits in its MG counterpart.

cement dont work that way, cement liquid is not a bonding agent. The bonding comes from melting of the plastics at contact point, fusing 2 halves of the plastic at the molecular level. The liquid purposes is just to melts the plastics away and once dried will just evaporates, it wont make anything thicker. U put cement on plastic and leave it there it'll just melts the plastic and warp it out of shape.

if u want to tighten a joint, use something where the substance itself is a bonding agent like super glue or uhu glue.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Oct 29 2014, 01:23 AM