thats a bargain for 150

in other words.. if plan to top coat it... you'll need gloss for metallic parts.. and flat for others right..?
thats quite a lot to spend..

i think its not only this hobby... Once your hobby makes u become a collector.. then will eat up room... its the same issue ppl in TF, Mecha and action figure collectors... anything more than 10 inch in size will take up room quite fast if you r displaying them...

for me i just hv to stick with MG or larger scale since i dont display them in a batch... less is more to say..
But quite tempting to try HG/RG... but only when im committed to do a diorama/mini diorama for them..

I havent Top coat my model kits yet... plannng to do so... but still figuring out between Semi Gloss or Flat Mr Hobby... but the price keeps me holding back since i dont build many MS, only the ones i feel would look good displaying..

how many MG can the Mr Hobby can top coat use on?

is that 88ml or 170 ml?

is that OP is a build kit too? are both using samurai top coat? hows the result compare to hobby grade top coat?

What are these called?
I found them in very good condition and standing strong amongs other collections that went into cupboard storage..

will they turn yellow or get crack marks overtime?

buying online you have to take note of shipping charges.. for big kits may charge more.. end up the same as your local hobby store.. sometimes you can still get good prizes though f you scout around multiple online sellers/shops..

yes.. i purchase from gwing b4.. good defect in my item when unbox.. they are kind enough to exchange for me no with no hassle.. just online listing seems a bit slow to update..

I find that PO action figures, Toypanic seem to hv a better price compared to Gwing n Hobby Raiser.. all of them are penang based

hows the weight of RG kits.. Are they heavier than HG?
Can it be hang on ceiling or wall mounted?

that justice looks nice... are they top coated?

if apply tamiya cement.. will that help..?
nail polish also been used to tighten joints

what i meant is when it has a joint.. apply a layer just at that point but dont put it back on yet.. just to create a thicker layer to create a bit of friction, once dried snap it on n it should be thighter(Depending on layer thickness, sometimes have to apply more than once).. just like the concept of paintng kits parts by parts.. once u try to combine the parts ull notice its tighter to do so..

for too tight issue, is best to mask the area of joint b4 painting..

so do i need both softer and setter? or can just get away with just 1?

Will Sticker type decal turn yellow on the transparent part overtime if you top coat it?

Nail polish does works for action figures join tightening.. some use cement as well.. but action figures/toys plastics may be differ.. some joint can bend as well..

i noticed super glue sometimes will create a sort of whitish/cloudish.. any other cleaner solution than that for joint tightening for gunpla..

so on unpainted you can use setter only....
how asap to apply top coats after decals if not using any solvents, hours or less?

that a nice zeta.. is it rg?
i always push this one aside for MG due to Zeta 2.0 price quite high... if im gonna keep adding my gunpla.. i may need to reconsider RG since the detail n color separation is good...

Somehow saiz still does matter to me.. as i like em to be a display item.

any suggestions on how to panel line on white parts and not looking too black heavy?

are those panel wash technique easy to remove access on small tight areas like the head/face?

What type of paint is good n easy to use enamel, acrylic,oil color,ink etc?