QUOTE(iskazulka @ Jun 11 2014, 01:25 PM)
You face problem kot.... Pray la, Before you are dipraykan....
This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jun 11 2014, 01:33 PM
PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V61, factorial (!) !!!!!!!!!!&a
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Jun 11 2014, 01:32 PM
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#121
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Jun 11 2014, 03:46 PM
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#122
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Jun 11 2014, 04:17 PM
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#123
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Jun 11 2014, 04:55 PM
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#124
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Jun 11 2014, 04:58 PM
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#125
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Jun 11 2014, 09:10 PM
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#126
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A funny one....I bet 2Jayz is the cee koh pek
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Jun 12 2014, 08:07 AM
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#127
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jun 12 2014, 04:24 AM) new primax seems to smell even worse, i think they substitute with more additives... and probably more earnings (assuming the additives are cheaper, cut cost :rolleys: ) Mr.Qua...tabik you...can know new primax smell different from old primax...new primax smell like what? And compare to shell fuel save 95 and others which smell better? Got what smell like conti or made in china smell??fc/performance wise, on both iswara/inspira not much difference. |
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Jun 12 2014, 09:40 AM
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#128
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Jun 12 2014, 11:21 AM
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#129
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Jun 12 2014, 04:01 PM
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#130
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For me I would rather see the sight of black oil after a certain mileage use rather than still clean as new.
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Jun 12 2014, 05:33 PM
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#131
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QUOTE(zeone @ Jun 12 2014, 05:13 PM) Hi Bro... It's the same for any type of oil. In any machinery, the lub oil or the oil it used to make the machine function will degrade overtime, due to heat, moisture, friction at cold start, friction when the gearbox is running (in real world even you have lub oil there will still be friction between gears is just how much % of the friction is reduced with lub oil, it's not possible to have 0% in real world.). In my factory I have 30+ machines all have gear oil, and it gets dirty and becomes black after 10,000hrs of operation. All my gear box are enclosed and with oil cooler. Re abv statement, me kno it applies to good Q EOs... However, izzit same with ATF? Where wld most of the contaminants b coming from? GBox & TC are both completely encased w/o easy entry of any ext contaminants... Unlike in engine. True? ps. Juz 4discussion nia...Ā Don't forget inside AT gearbox you still have planetary gear set. Although your gearbox is sealed but it is not in negative pressure (vacuum) The real problem starts if the oil is not change on schedule, wrong grade of oil or they have lost their lubricating ability. Then you will start to have larger chips of metal debris because the gears are grinding against themselves and the opposing pressure on the gear teeth will cause the teeth to break apart as the uneven heat stress builds up within them. This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jun 12 2014, 05:36 PM |
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Jun 12 2014, 07:13 PM
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#132
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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Jun 12 2014, 05:37 PM) Must have if not machine down...I lose production and money.QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jun 12 2014, 05:37 PM) but the ATF is scheduled to service on 20k km, bro zerone drained his at 5k km. New gearbox or engines have tighter fitments. So it's normal if the 1st change need to be at a shorter interval. My compressor also like that, the motor and the gearbox. 1st run in change gear oil and compressor oil at 4000 operation hours then after 2nd change the interval is longer at 7000 operating hours. granted, it could be as bro r3apers said, it's probably due to his at box being relatively new, so still contain a lot of metal shaving/debri from run in etc. QUOTE(zeone @ Jun 12 2014, 05:42 PM) Ok Bro...Tks a meg!!Ā Depends on oil quality also. you have different price of oil. Same with my machinery. Those company will give me options, price and operating hrs for different quality of oil. Cheaper one you need shorter intervals while better one will have longer intervals. It's a balance between price and my down time on the machines when I buy it. Cheaper ones can use but I have more downtime and more waste oil to collect. Better ones I change less, less waste oil and I can get the disposal company to come at a longer interval to collect the waste. My other method of improving the lubrication between gears is some gears I fabricate them in PU or good Nylon pair with another more complicated design gear so that I reduce the problem on the main gear from breaking or damage if my team they miss the oil change interval by 1 month (sometimes they do but seldom) or I use a PU or nylon as an intermediate gears between 2 very hard to fabricate gears so I only risk 1 nylon gear which is easy to fabricate.That means Proton ATF SPIII degrades kinda fast...ie kinda fast @5k Km when replacement schedule is only @20k Km/24mths...Ā One reason why Bro r3apers changes his every 10k Km....safer lo... Also rec also by Bro Quazacolt Me will replace with Caltex ATF-J soon & compare after 5k Km usage... TQ 2all Bros 4sharing... But PU or nylon gears are suitable for high speed, low load or low speed low load use or you want to protect another more hard to find/fabricate gear since PU if you apply lub to them they are very slippery compare to metal. But the inner section I still maintain steel body so that the keyway is more stronger and can tahan the twisting force. Just need to heat press or press in the inner body to the outer nylon gear ring. This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jun 12 2014, 07:17 PM |
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Jun 12 2014, 09:30 PM
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#133
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QUOTE(king_lover23 @ Jun 12 2014, 08:36 PM) Can under the car to see any wet part or open bonnet and trace the PS line and joint. Also can get the car started and turn steering to both side with a friend and u check got any liquid leak or spray out or not |
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Jun 13 2014, 12:57 AM
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#134
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Jun 13 2014, 12:41 PM
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#135
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Jun 13 2014, 12:49 PM
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#136
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Jun 13 2014, 01:18 PM
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#137
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Jun 13 2014, 01:45 PM
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#138
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QUOTE(r3apers @ Jun 13 2014, 01:18 PM) Ya loh...more silent than yours.....you start engine saja....already vrrooooommmm langsung cant hear mine...QUOTE(dares @ Jun 13 2014, 01:22 PM) Tonight is batang nights.... YEah......got free show also tonight...now im looking for foldable chair. that 2Jayz mia spring, and the gorilla mia amp....i already macam part time courier boy...all the bosses tell me Oi, jibai do this..take that for me, pay that for me.... |
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Jun 13 2014, 02:00 PM
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#139
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Jun 13 2014, 03:16 PM
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#140
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