Are you sure you're sacrificing just ergonomics/ruggedness? What about quality?

After that, you'd start going back to full frame.

For me, a small body plus quality would be (and should be) nothing short of something like the Sony's A7R or the fixed RX1R.

Try set focus manually. Depending on how it was set, 3D tracking can jump from one focus point to another focus point depending.

Congrats. Can never go wrong with the Nikon 24-70. Staple diet lens.

There's slight friction on mine too from 50 to 70 range. You can give it a go and have Nikon check it. There's a fee if I'm not wrong. Mine has no more warranty left and Nikon said I manhandled my lens when I got it checked.

They suggested to change the whole barrel which cost something like 2 to 3k.

I left it as is because there's actually nothing wrong with focus accuracy.

Yes, I would agree to trade off quality for some mobility if it was cheap but since a new system will cost you another price of a D800, I don't see the logic.

I guess it depends on what you're buying but generally how much would a reasonable Fuji system cost?

Can you show sample? Do you use a UV filter in front of lens when doing this long exposure shot?

That's true.

But once you need the photo for printing bigger than 4R or do some cropping, you'd notice the difference.

Have you tried focus stacking?

Perhaps not so ideal if subject moves.

You got an arca swiss ballhead?

I use a D800 plate from the same Sunwayfoto company as the one you have. These China made ones are good workmanship and relatively cheaper than the ones from US. Was tempted to get their L plate but it was too much money seeing that I don't use it often. It add a little bulk too.

Besides usage on the tripod, I use a small Sunwayfoto arca clamp attached to my ciplak Black Rapid strap to grip the arca clamp on the bottom of the camera.

Which is more noisy at same resolution? D800 or the Fuji?

Love what you did with the lighting. Very subtle.

You using any flash bounce or light box?

I still have my Sigma 10-20mm. Was using it a lot on my DX bodies. Yeah, Sigma 30mm f/1.4 also.

The Sigma 10-20mm is not bad. Especially when stopped down. Just don't shoot people at the edge. It applies to all ultra wides.

You can also use the Sigma 10-20mm on FX. If I'm not wrong, it's only usable from 17mm onwards without the obvious vignette.

Back then, it was either the Tokina 12-24mm, the Sigma 10-20mm or the expensive Nikon 12-24mm. After reading pros and cons, went for the Sigma for the extra 10mm and faster HSM motor.

Try and do a search. A few years back, the choice was about equal in between the Tokina and Sigma. I believe picture quality and sharpness at wide open goes to Tokina but at f/8 apertures, everything becomes the same.

So for me, the 10mm and faster HSM motor was the deciding factor.

Before you perform this test, did you disable AF engagement for shutter half-press? Set the "AF Activation" option to "AF-ON only". For D600 it's option f4 if not wrong and since no dedicated button on D600 (and D7000) for AF-On, use the AE-L/AF-L button as the AF-ON button.

Also, for the test to be accurate, you need to make sure that your camera sensor is parallel to the newspaper or any intended object and also on the same plane.

For that you need something like LensAlign to correctly place the target and make the test more meaningful as you can manually set and determine the focal plane of the target to be parallel to the camera sensor plane.

200mm can also have big aperture. At f/2.0 lah.

Difficult question. But you can opt to buy the 17-55mm f/2.8 Nikon at 2nd hand prices and still sell them for a reasonable price should you decide to upgrade later on. Or you can get 3rd party lenses and sell later at lower prices should you decide to upgrade later.

The Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 is beautiful lens. It's a lot of money but I don't think it suites well on the DX crop. Yeah some say ok but to me, it's not wide enough. If you have wider lenses, then you can got for it but if you don't have wider lenses, then save the money and look elsewhere. It's not a limited edition lens. When you want to buy it later after upgrading to FX, it will always be available.

This post has been edited by jchue73: May 2 2014, 04:00 PM

Because got gold ring mah.

To date, it's the only pro f/2.8 DX lens to come out if I'm not mistaken. Other pro lenses made for FX.

People can still survive with one kidney.



Pics taken with it is super beautiful.

Beautiful.

Yup.

Great shot. Looks very peaceful.

Some Nikon news;

New D800 / D800E Version 1.1 firmware
New 400mm f/2.8 with Fluorine elements
New TC-14E III with Fluorine coating

Yes you can but because children usually have very erratic movements (movements that you cannot predict) it's pointless when the subject will not be in focus. I don't know of any large aperture lenses other than the 200mm f/2.0 that can do blinding speed focus. The f/1.4 lenses are all slow even though with AF-S motor.

Yeah, shallow DoF too.

Depending on condition, a relatively decent one can go somewhere between 3 to 3.5k.

Brand new is 5k.

Ok. Is there an equivalent 17-55 range on DX for mirrorless?

One part is the lens and the other equation is the sensor.

Yup. Cannot challenge the law of physics. More glass, more light but that means heavier.

Very unbalanced setup. Besides, picture quality and speed wise is still behind DSLRs even though they are catching up.

I guess nowadays not many into DX lenses and some more 3rd party lenses are cheaper with pretty decent performance too.

Good find on the Oly 14-35mm f/2.0. But did you check the price and size / weight of that thing?

My 14-24mm f/2.8 is cheaper and about the same weight as the Oly 14-35mm f/2.0. So you want to put this on a small body?

The thing is a lot of people jump into something without really checking out what they are getting into. Yeah, generally weight is lighter and size is smaller but you sacrifice quality which many don't see. If when you want to get back the quality and equivalent performance as your former DSLR, you're screwed with the weight and size of the lens and burns a hole in the pocket on the way.

BTW, the Oly 14-35mm f/2.0 equivalent in 35mm FX is 28-70mm while the 17-55mm f/2.8 equivalent in 35mm FX is 25.5-82.5mm. The Nikon is still wider and longer.

The 32" monitor you linked can get a D810 already.

No such model as U2414M. I think you meant U2412M.

Yeah, more vertical space. 16:10 monitors are a dying breed nowadays.

But for photographers, most important besides size (and price) is to look at the colour gamut. Both U2414H and U2412M seem to have similar colour gamut.

I also like the fact that the U2414H has USB 3 and that it has input / output display port so that you can daisy chain monitors with a single connection to your PC/notebook with display port. Ideal for multiple monitor environment.

Anyway, if you're looking at 24" 16:10 monitors, they still sell U2413 with PremierColor.

Knock your socks off;

Primes
AF-D 14mm f/2.8
AF-D 16mm f/2.8 fisheye
AF-D 18mm f/2.8
AF-D 20mm f/2.8
AF-D 24mm f/2.8
AF-D 28mm f/2.8
AF-D 35mm f/2.0
AF-D 50mm f/1.4
AF-D 50mm f/1.8
AF-D 60mm f/2.8 Micro
AF-D 85mm f/1.4
AF-D 85mm f/1.8
AF-D 105mm f/2.8 Micro
AF-D 105mm f/2.0 DC Portrait
AF-D 135mm f/2.0 DC Portrait
AF-D 180mm f/2.8
AF-D 200mm f/4 Micro
AF-D 300mm f/2.8
AF-I 400mm f/2.8
AF-I 500mm f/4
AF-I 600mm f/4

For zooms, I'm only gonna list f/2.8 ones;

Zooms
AF-D 20-35mm f/2.8
AF-D 35-70mm f/2.8
AF-D 80-200mm f/2.8

Nikon Pro bodies have built-in screw driver type motor to AF on motorless AF-D lenses.

Once you put on AF-S type lenses, those Nikon Pro bodies will just use the built-in AF-S motor on these lenses to AF.

AF-D lenses are still quite ok if you put them on older sensors like the D90. But you can see that it has reached it's limit once you put on FX sensor like the D800/D800E which case the newer AF-S lenses have better micro resolving capability.

Errr... ragnarokB2 asked for A and you give Z.

Nope, I think you confuse Manual Focus (MF) Nikkors like the NOCT.

Most AF-D lenses are affordable and still works excellent on older sensors that are not demanding.

Actually there's one AF-D lens that I missed which is super expensive and super illusive.

AF-D 28mm f/1.4

I'm not disagreeing with anybody. Just that ragnarokB2 had to ask the question twice while his question and intention was very clear already.



He just wants the freaking AF-D lens list.

Anyway to reply your opinion about AF-D vs AF-S lenses, yes there's pros and cons. AF-D lenses are very reasonable priced gems and on old sensor like on the D90, the results are still fantastic. On the other hand if money is no issue, got for the best i.e. AF-S lenses. Not because of the built-in motor but more because the newer AF-S lenses spot improvements in additional nano coatings and add Super ED glass elements.

For the record, I still keep 5 of the AF-D primes and all the f/2.8 AF-D zooms I listed.