from picture there's both front and rear pads, separate shipping from amazon (basically pay shipping twice in full price lol) to avoid import tax deposit and reduce chance of customs (didn't got tax lol)

on your package content picture seems to be showing both sides? (since the brake pads' shapes are different lol)

wow didn't know that inner/outer sides of the pads will be different unlike the fronts

oh and about your brake noise: http://ebcbrakes.com/about-ebc/faqs/

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: May 4 2014, 10:07 AM

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to-bed-i...rban-driving-2/
might want to read this up and re-evaluate the brake pads after bedding in

the locking/sharp brakes are probably the bedding in coating acting

can assume the bigger lancer gt discs are on different bracket, and due to the bracket design, the different pad shapes are swapped as you mentioned?

err for our car only or what? your question too vague bro lol.

if you want to know just a general definition, you might as well google it lol

adjustable and comfort won't go together unless you're willing to pay (say, 5 digits for RCS 2/3 ways? )
adjustable is as the name implies, adjustable suspensions, where it's typically coil overs - very short spring coils. considering the coil lengths, the amount of force it can absorb/disperse is very limited, hence almost every adjustable/coil-over out there in the market will have comfort/nvh severely compromised.

sports in general are typically lowered sports spring, and/or stiffer absorbers (some even have shorter stroke absorbers such as IMP propex to further lower ride height)
basically, they offer minor performance upgrade, while generally/mainly lowering ride height.
comfort is going to be compromised as you may experience bottoming out especially if tend to drive/corner very fast.

whatever you change, of course the ride won't be the same, else why you change it if it's the same, right?
at the end of the day, it really depends on what you want, what you're willing to pay, and understand what you're getting into.

tldr: why didn't join us on RCS? please refer previous posts regarding RCS.

can come together geh, price insane jek lolz

and no need to come down kl for tuning ah, just come fit only. because tuning done on 1 car, rest follow same spec.
want? not sure if they still ok for the bulk price lolz

i never had titans

finally video up

vyraz davidke20 mahihi thanks again guys

thanks bro.
iinm i did ~4k. anything under 4 i had to spend time to "accelerate" in first gear, and over 4.5k i'll get excessive wheel spin/clutch trying to bite.

oh dang didn't realize on the tires at all... my front were 34-35 ish, while rear is -2 psi so 32-33 ish

i think what nailed that timing was the smooth 2nd > 3rd, from the video there was barely any vibration or even sound.
1st > 2nd could use a lot more work/practice.

looking back at the hour i spent dragging the car... (oh that's probably why i got the 7.4km/l FC ROFL!) it's scary at the thought of doing it again, but if i want to improve, there's no other choice.
and yea after 1 hour of high torque non stop... felt a bit nausea when i took a rest at mcdonalds nearby, and my back/lower half of my body was really weak/tired

Lol for that video it wasn't on mex XD

top speed posted ady ah

Wah boss, not fast enough ah?Proton rate it at 202kph only wo, meter 240kph only wo, 1.8 liter na car only wei

Remap again (all the previous benchmarks were on stock map) and use Motul 300v Ok mou?

Tire whenever got money for better traction? Lol

5th gear just a bit less than 6k rpm

stock mapping unable to hold >6k rpm for long anyways, ecu dunno what to do lol

look back previous post la, later kena marah cuz too many people go try and then they put speedbumps there

yeap have to, because according to gear ratio (and as per real world driving/test anyways) i will be hitting past 6k rpm about 80-90kph, and if i continue on the throttle i will get a fuel cut because stock mapping no information for the ecu to process (the mapping is only up til 6k rpm)

i have to say, i am amused by my 2nd > 3rd shift as it looked almost non existent from the video, which explains the 9.56 timing according to gps as opposed to the consistent 10-12+ seconds (on gps) i've been getting for the entire 1 hour.

my key to tackle now (As per pointed by david as well) is 1st > 2nd shifts, that one i just couldn't nail it properly and there's clutch slip/wheel spins as per the video as well

i was on stock map for some time ma, for my own testing/benchmarking purposes mainly lol

so far no la, but mainly cuz he want to educate me

and since he isn't free i might as well collect all the data i want while i'm still on the stock map, they do take time and it's hard to find time also within my busy schedule