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 PROTON EXORA BOLD OWNERS THREAD! V3, Unleash the turbo power!

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comflash2
post Sep 30 2014, 12:33 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Sep 30 2014, 08:18 AM)
This may come as a coincident as the supplier APM provides new batch of radiator with metal joint.
Proton may or may not have fixed it. The upgrade is not posted on their official website, unlike the aircon fan option.
It's just my opinion, I may be wrong.
My exora bold CFE (1st batch, preorder version) just got radiator inlet problem.. overheat and stranded. Now i'm waiting for Proton to change the radiator. Proton already change lot of thing (for free) for my exora, but i didn't recall any they change aircon fan. Can u explain more or give me the link. I want to make sure i change it before my warranty expire soon.
comflash2
post Sep 30 2014, 12:51 PM

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QUOTE(YouDontKnowMyName @ Sep 4 2014, 04:46 PM)
Up to now I have yet to figure out which format of video works with the dvd player laugh.gif
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I use it all the time. The DVD player only support XVID encoding with AVI file only. Sound, use MP3. If you want exact setting, PM me... i'll send u my setting and software.
comflash2
post Sep 30 2014, 12:58 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Sep 30 2014, 12:56 PM)
http://www.protonaftersales.com/faqradiatorfan.aspx

It's applicable to old Exora, not EB.
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Thanks a lot... thats helpful.
comflash2
post Oct 1 2014, 03:06 PM

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QUOTE(YouDontKnowMyName @ Sep 30 2014, 06:44 PM)
Eh? Means your unit also kena the problem of radiator inlet pecah? Were there any signs prior to the inlet breaking?
Like perhaps engine vibrating abnormally or something?
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Yup... just kena. Today, proton just call me to take the car. Take 2 days to fix this. There is no sign before its happen... just suddenly temperature shoot up and smoke (water vapor) comeout from my bonet. When i open the bonet i see host inlet from turbo to radiator is totally disconnected and causing coolant to come out. When i take a look carefully i notice its not really disconnected, but the plastic connection inlet actually broken. The last time my bonet is opened is > 1 month ago when i do the 60k service. So, i doubt i broke it myself. If proton service broke it, my car should overheat sooner. I recommend everybody to change the radioator before your car stranded like me.
comflash2
post Oct 28 2014, 03:02 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Oct 20 2014, 01:41 PM)
Yup, 2 noise. - the turbo, comes at certain point for 2 seconds, and then goes away, or I keep adding throttle to make the whistle continue. The wind noise is coming from side mirror, more apparent from the passenger side, above 80kmh.
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Thats quite common problem to all cars. I go through multiple europe/us forum and it seem like common problem. Simple electrical tape will solve it, but u need to see where the gap is. Here is 1 example (jetta)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?...whistling-noise
comflash2
post Oct 28 2014, 03:11 PM

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QUOTE(sKypRiNcE734 @ Oct 19 2014, 11:38 PM)
Well my complaints were,

1.Side mirror still giving problem after changed to new one.

2.RH seat knob came out from its position.

3.Reverse enjin math

4.Loud whistle sound in the cabin when cruising 110 and above.

5.Side door rubber Hilang after last serves.

6.CVT light on then engine stall

7.fuel very high..17.9/19.9

8.Brakes wont makan..almost hit front car while qued to pay parking bill.

9.requested for radiator change..and they did it for me..
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3.Reverse enjin math
6.CVT light on then engine stall
7.fuel very high..17.9/19.9
-For all of this, ask service center to flash latest ECU and TCU firmware. Its working for me.

8.Brakes wont makan..almost hit front car while qued to pay parking bill.
-Vacuum assist break losing the vacuum. Break actually still "makan" but u need to use your own energy to break since u can't get the asssist. I frequenctly kena few times at cameron highland. but very few at other places, so i guess colder temperature will make this worst. The workaround is to press the throttle up to 3000 RPM for ~10second to build up the vacumm while gear in P. Usually i'll press the break few times to make sure vacuum is ok before going to D. If i feel i loosingthe vacuum assist, then i did the work around
comflash2
post Nov 26 2014, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(YouDontKnowMyName @ Nov 26 2014, 11:45 AM)


Finally able to record a video of the over crank happening.

I tried to crank the first time and the engine wasn't able to start up, I stopped after 4 cranks.
Quickly grabbed my camera to record the second start up try.

This happened at 9.30am in the morning, the weather was quite cold as it has been raining the past night.

Normal start up requires only 2-3 cranks. Over crank at least 6+ cranks for engine to start up.

Engine is able to start up after over crank, but feels very weak and will usually die, unless the accelerator pedal is stepped.

This has been happening ever since the first 1000km service. Recently had my ECU updated during my 10000km service as it was reported that the problem would be solved with the update, but obviously it has not been fixed.

Age of vehicle : 11 months
Mileage : 12000 km
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Its sound like weak battery for me. Need few crank to overcome inertia. The battery may dead soon. Check the voltage in the morning. For Calcium-calcium maintenance free battery should be >12.8V. For wet battery, the minimum voltage should be > 12.6volt. I noticed water level in one of the cell in my "maintenance free" (the one closest to the engine) evaporate much faster than other and causing the over crank.
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