Get it changed then. Do the cheapest 1st, then only gradually repair 1 by 1 to see how the car responded. If the 1st fix already eleminate the problem, then stop touching already. Car is like that, don't try to fix when it's not broken or you're going to end up paying a bomb on the related stuff.

Speed sensor
Original renault = RM250
Cap ayam = RM80
Labor = RM10

I'm running on cap ayam. Reason? Simple, I can afford to rosak 3x then the ori.

AMT shift stick? RM300

http://www.mudah.my/Proton+savvy+AMt+gear+...7900.htm?last=1

Yes it can break anytime without warning - NOT if the owner is driving it. Usually people sent car to car wash/service, the car wash banggalah/service officer can just break it on their first attempt. For the same reason, every AMT owner knows their car then the back of their hand. The servicing officer could have trouble trying to slot in drive mod/reverse and break the damn thing.

You may complain to Plotong, but I don't believe they will do anything to it nor compensate on your loss. Be prepare to break your wallet A G A I N. If you're within Klang Valley, I suggest you send your car to our well known Renautech, even their Myanmar guy know how to drive a Shawie then their owner. Price is not cheap compare to any other bawah pokok workshop, but they're Renaut Expert - On top of that they're definitely cheaper then Plotong service centre which usually fucked things up.

Letting go Ular Cacing slut bar at cincai price. Anything above 49.95 and 100.00 below is acceptable for me. Come and take it and sendiri pasang. Item detail:

Model: Ultra Racing Strut Tower Bar
Type: 2 point bolt on mounting
Original price: RM145
Condition: 3 years old, minor paint chips

Will be closing this deal if until next weekend still no taker. Might as well throw the damn bar together with the car push into sea water

I've actually changed the filter a month ago, got the plugs changed yesterday problem persists.

guess it's the sensor. T_T

Hi,

Thanks for the comment.

Yeah u got it right! there are cracks at the lower part of the plastic stick... the guy from proton appllied 2ton glue (something like that as i've been told) .. now the gear is super grip... just a bit of push can change gear already... hopefully it can last long..he asked for 60 ringgit only

Ofcourse they fix it, and 60 bucks for super gluing something that you didn't commit, what a convenient the Plotong took on you. U may prepare some 3~500 for the shift stick. Mark my word, from now on never let anyone touch your AMT, not even your family member unless they've been thoroughly briefed before hand.

thanks man for the advise... the proton guy told me 900 ringgit for the set to change... i might head to renautech than to proton next time...time to save money hihi

1 can never save money with an AMT in hand. The only solution is slow down the bleeding process as a slow death process. Stop going back to Plotong service center. The next could have been they mistakenly plonk normal transmission oil into your gearbox and kill your AMT, which 1 whole new set would cost RM12000 for replacement.

The link I posted for you is used unit, hence the price RM300. You may consult Renautech in the 1st place to find out how much it cost before you commit. Don't rush/jump into DECISION before you consult multiple sources. 1 of the good resource you may consult is bro h0pefree. This kind of brother you can never set him behind, because he owns an AMT, he need the AMT part. He direct import the parts at the same time he order extra to cut down shipping cost. Hence, he's a super star to many AMT owner(including me even if I'm not AMT owner as I'm getting my engine part from him as well).

First of all, I would like to thank davidke20 for his awesome insights all these years, stainless brake hose, and rear saga bearings. He will live in my car forever.

So last week I wanted find out what is my stock OEM front spring rate. So I put an IKEA weighing scale under one wheel, and slowly drop it. The idea is to measure kg vs. mm spring compression. Needless to say, the experiment was inconclusive , because of the spring preloads.



So then I decided to find out what is my front OEM 20mm anti-roll bar aka sway bar spring rate. A few measurements and formula produces. The sway bar rate is 9.1 N/mm or means additional 4.55N/mm spring rate on each front wheel.


If money was falling from the skies, I would build my car to final weight spec, weigh it on each corners, and choose an adjustables spring. My recommended spring rate would be 30N/mm fronts and 40N/mm rears for a ride rate of 1.6 to 1.7 Hz


This post has been edited by e-lite: Sep 13 2015, 01:30 PM

When will the roll cage settling in your car? I may be changing car due to practicality reason, doesn't mean there's slight deter in love with Shawie I hope someday I'd still be taking a ride in your little monster be it on track/street.

sad to see you changing ride bro

Why the sadness? It's not like I'm leaving Shawie thread I'm still very much in love with this little monster. It's just that impractical for me to drive this small car for long distance on a daily basis anymore. For the past 1.5 years, I've been punishing it thoroughly. I really couldn't keep up with the regular maintenance on such a small engine and barely surviving on my 3.6krpm everyday 3 hours straight in KL-Seremban hiway, let alone evening 2 hours jam with a 40 tons truck clutch from Sg.Besi all the way to Sri Damansara.

The FC is still my champion after many cars I've own. Performance also on par due to very competitive power to weight ratio, not to mentioned it's being greatly improved by MAG1C in Senawang. Am very happy also, today managed to "TRANSFER" performance to FlammingFox on his little silver monster. We went out for a shotgun ride to test performance, feels a lot like pointing a magnum to a shooting duck and fire. I hope this legacy lives and benefit to my fellow Shawian in Low Yat forum for a very-very long time to come.

Meanwhile, I'll still be around until next TS come and take over. Even that happens, I will still be around as a Plotong owner to give support to this little fun compact car. Who knows, 1 fine day I earn enough dough and start my own Shawie specialist workshop, then I'll be collecting Shawies and make them nice-nice infront of my shop

inkambing Veeyous?

good to know at least you're still keeping the passion... i am still looking for opportunities/$ so that i can get the iswara back in shape for pasir gudang hehe.
the AD08R in the kitchen could use some exercising

oh and i just got to DIY replace the wiper motor after 16 years the ori denso has been with the car
supposedly ori/oem mitsinbo? the dead ori on the iswara was denso lol
its slightly cheaper than the part price list, at around 185/196 including gst.
the rear motor on the price list is 1.2k mitsubishi part number

next weekend will go to some exhaust shops and get the leaking exhaust fixed lol

After 7 years of using stock Savvy, decided to change the heart of car. Hope it can serve me well for another 3 years. Don't know what the outcome of the engine. Hopefully it will maintain the power and FC for a such a small car

Injin apa mau masok?

Yaris 1.5 turbo TRD. The mechanic says no problem to fit. I'm still skeptical. I will update to you the progress. Baru mau tgk enjin in the workshop.

hi to all savvy sifu...i've been following this thread for a while to get some information on how to take care of savvy...fyi, i bought a secondhand savvy as my 1st car after i move to kajang for work...i sent my savvy to Renautech for service last saturday and i must say that i'm really satisfied with their service...thank you for the recommendation...

however, i just want to ask one thing...the car window on the driver side can't wind down all the way down compared to my passenger side...i also forgot to mention it to William when i send it to his workshop...what could be the prob? is it the motor? or regulator? hope the sifu here can help me figure this one out...thanks!!!

My engine just arrive



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The well known PROTON issue(Powahwindoe Rosak Oh Tidak Oh No). In fact, the caused wasn't even the mechanism issue to begin with,it was the rubber(weather seals that kapik the window). This usually caused by previous owner apply silicone lubricant onto the weather seal so the window can roll smooth. The trouble is, when oil mixed with dust, it goes cake! And we all know, then the moving part caked with greasy cake, it will create much friction & stop your window from winding down. Another reason is, if the rubber seal get softened by the silicone lubricant, it tend to clamp on the window too tight.

To fix this, u may try to pull out the weather seal, clean it with dish washer soap water. Rinse it thoroughly in the hope of restore stiffness. If after cleaned put back still didn't cure, meaning previously the friction already affected your window rack. If u notice our Shawie window rack mounted further infront, closer to dashboard. When rolling down window, the window tend to jatuh belakang a bit faster then front. As a result, our problem terbalik compare to other car. Usually people punya powahwindoe rosak can't go up, ours is can't go down.

When this happened, there's nothing much u can do other then continue lubricating the weather seals every week until something break. Do remember when u fix it, make sure u change the window rack/weather seal together. By changing the motor itself will get u no where because later on the friction from window rack/weather seal will strain your electric motor, it will burn again in 1 or 2 years time. Its like cancer, jangkit everywhere unless u get rid of them 1 shot.