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 Yamaha LC135 Y15ZR Y16ZR Club - V18, King of kings

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xviiviiixiv
post Oct 7 2017, 05:46 PM

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Hi all, new here but been lurking for quite a bit. Time to change block and piston for my old LC v1 and I figured might as well upgrade to 150cc. Planning to change to FZ block & piston.

This bike used to be my everyday bike but I bought a scooter for everyday use and now using this LC for weekend. I chose FZ nye setup cause convenient. Not going to race it but dapat tapao Y15ZR pun ok la thumbup.gif

1. FZ piston melengkung ke dalam sikit and from what I've read, it's not so good? Is it better if I use other 57mm piston but with straight top or yang melengkung ke atas? (higher compression).

2. Do I use the original conrod from LC or change to FZ conrod as well? The valve and valve spring too, do I change it as well?

3. Is FZ camshaft good enough? Or do I need high cam?

4. Changing my ratio too. Faito (1ST: 32T, 2ND : 29T, 4TH : 21T) good enough? or yy pang? Or any recommendation?

This post has been edited by xviiviiixiv: Oct 7 2017, 05:54 PM
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 8 2017, 06:07 AM

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QUOTE(crappy123 @ Oct 7 2017, 09:59 PM)
since u wan mod already might as well put 62 with high cam, ori carb setting balik if dont wan change.
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QUOTE(man_sate @ Oct 7 2017, 10:43 PM)
Good. Ori head more durable.
Like crappy123 said. Better upgrade to 62mm and highcam.
FZ block performance same like standard even you change to flat piston.
Ratio is good enough.
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Thanks for the reply! 62mm block w/ piston, which brand set recommended? I'm on student budget sweat.gif change block ni pun cause I have to since the moto dah start buat hal sikit, dah start keluar asap and sometimes RPM tak nak turun even after lepas throttle.

recommend me the block and piston set and I try see if it's within my budget. btw it's PNP kan?
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 9 2017, 03:21 AM

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btw, I'm at batam, indonesia la. susah nak dpt sini bende LC. dorang ni semue dah tak main LC lagi. Kalau pakai block 62mm, pakai brand ape? UMA?
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 9 2017, 11:06 PM

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QUOTE(man_sate @ Oct 9 2017, 12:38 PM)
UMA good enough. On budget side you can pick SCK.
CMS & X1R problem for now.
Y15 engine same like 5 speed. No need to change rod. Original rod can withstand until 65mm.
Except for 4 speed. Need to change rod.
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so for me, if I choose to go with 62mm block, need to change conrod? Change to what? is it because sizing or because of material? Sorry, ask so much, trying to learn how to do it correctly. I don't know any good mech here so I have to know what I'm doing.

BTW, if I use 57mm, I'll be using PE 28 carb. If 62mm, use which carb?

This post has been edited by xviiviiixiv: Oct 9 2017, 11:07 PM
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 10 2017, 08:58 PM

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I think, the 3C1 block that I'm looking for probably not in production anymore. I guess I should just go ahead with 62mm block.

Will probably take me slightly longer to save up for 62mm ones, but can I ask, the following should I change or I can use back the same. My bike is LC135 v1, so it's 4 speed.

1. Conrod
2. Valve
3. Head
4. Camshaft

I'll be going with UMA 62mm. Any other recommendation besides UMA?

BTW, this will be plug and play right?

This post has been edited by xviiviiixiv: Oct 12 2017, 09:41 AM
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 12 2017, 12:27 PM

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QUOTE(man_sate @ Oct 12 2017, 11:36 AM)
1. Can use back
2. Can use back
3. Can use back
4. It's up to your budget. High cam and 62mm sure will increase your top speed usually 160-180kmh. 62mm only will increase your pickup and top speed around 140-150kmh.

When install a high cam you need to install stiffer valve spring (racing valve spring) because to prevent floating which known as valve and piston hit when in high speed.
Don't know if your place have SCK or MDS. It's more cheap than uma.
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Thanks! CMS good?

BTW if I upgrade it part by part, is this order ok and am I missing anything?

1. Block + piston
2. hi-cam + valve spring
3. carb
4. cdi
5. ratio
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 16 2017, 04:18 AM

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QUOTE(apple_crumble @ Oct 12 2017, 12:53 PM)
Batam indonesia, if u have a time, u can go to Johor region if u want to find more products and brands. I'm not prefer UMA Racing, since the brand was expensive. ahahaha.

For me, no problem if u use any brand. the most important, piston type, piston pin, and the way u setup and setting ur spec. As long u make it tidy and follow the rules, should be no problem.

But if u are the speed hunter, "hati kering" wants more speed. U need to think about the durability each brands and products.

1-Conrod - U can use back, as long it was not too loose or can pull up or push down at the crankshaft.

2-Valve - Can use back, but prefer to do re-grind valve in order to prevent lose compression or "valve bocor".

3-Head - can use back, better with port the intake and exhaust. the inlet follow the carb size. better performance. If u have more money, can change to bigger valve, 19/22. adjust compression ratio. Lay the head about 0.4mm - 1.00mm max.

4-Camshaft - Preferable to change big lift more than std. Mostly Indonesian product, they high lift but small duration. More to pickup and track session but not topspeed and long distance type. In Malaysia, use CMS T2, as cheaper and easy to find. Can support pickup n top speed, long distance.

Camshaft have many profile, i can share with u if u want.

5-Cylinder Block - SCK, the quality were great but need to see the pin piston, because if u want to change a new pin piston, u need to go to machine shop to cut or adjust. SCK pin piston not same with other type.

MDS also good choice, cheaper than UMA, can be considered too, but please check the piston material n everything.

CMS can be use because have two type, forged piston or std piston. but the price a bit higher than other.

SBM rare block, but very good quality plus have the deeper water space.

KFC block also good but rarely to find.

P/s - For myself, i'm prefer MB (Malay Bengkel) Block. Tested for long, track use, and also the engineering idea are good. two choice, std piston or dome piston.
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wah! this is good info. thanks!

BTW, I bought CMS 62mm block, piston and SP carb, will be installing somewhere this week. Will need your advise later when I going to get my head, valve, spring and cam.
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 16 2017, 04:28 AM

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QUOTE(man_sate @ Oct 13 2017, 08:32 AM)
Save your budget on ratio. It's not easy to install because required to overhaul. DIY will save money but shop will cost money. Better wait when you need to change your rod. Do it one time.
For top set, install it one time which is block, hi cam and valve spring. It will cost money if you do 2 times. Gather your parts slowly.
You can install carb and cdi later.
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I'll take note of this. I already getting my block and piston, so I'll install it 1st. Afterwards getting my head, valve and spring, cam.

I guess I'll get the ratio replaced when I change rod. BTW, original rod better or standard size/length racing rod like faito?
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 16 2017, 02:24 PM

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QUOTE(apple_crumble @ Oct 16 2017, 10:04 AM)
Nice items, but better u gather all part before u install it, or it will be double or triple cost. Prefer 1 shot cost.
May i know, SP Carb? what kind of carb is that?
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Honda SP carb, PE 28.

I roughly know what to set up, just that not enough budget to do 1 shot. So right now change block, piston and carb. Next will be head, valve, spring and cam. Mostly CMS parts. Afterwards then will be CDI.

Like that ok? the labour cost quoted by my pomen seems reasonable, that's why I doing the upgrade in stages. The parts I acquired from JB and I hand carry back to batam.
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 16 2017, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(apple_crumble @ Oct 16 2017, 10:14 AM)
Gearbox ratio, what do you prefer? Wide ratio (High RPM gear change - Long) or Narrow ratio (Low-mid RPM gear - Short) or STD but power?

U can change ur GB 1,2 & 4 or Fullset gearbox sprint or Highway or u can lay ur 4th GB. I'm currently use the lay of 4th GB. High RPM top respond, no "lemau".

For Conrod - SCK, arata or other AF brand were expensive and not sure the durability. For myself, i modify my crankshaft to install the FZ/5S/Y15ZR rod, instead of STD OEM. If u know the brand "LONG ROD". I use this one together with harden the rod. So far so good, convoy, "Larian Amal", almost 2 year, seems like no problem at all.
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I was looking at the ratio, (1st - 31T, 2nd - 29T, 4th - 21T). TBH, this is the part I really no idea what I'm doing. However, my objective is to be able to tapao MX King and Satria FU. Can tapao these 2 bikes, I ok already.

Although there is a bit of a stretch here as I'm staying at the end of the island, there's not much long continuous stretch of road here unlike malaysia. If I remember correctly, to and fro school is around 30km - 40km per trip. If the ratio can help me tapao the 2 bikes easily and at the same time maintain ard 160km/h cruising speed easily, I'm more than happy.

I probably don't know much of what I'm talking about too. I'd appreciate any advise regarding this issue.

What do you mean by STD but power?

QUOTE(man_sate @ Oct 16 2017, 12:43 PM)
Just my recommendation. No need to follow if you have set your target.
Go for original FZ/5 speed/y15 rod. Need to cut crankshaft 1 mm side by side.
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For conrod, if I need to change it, I prefer it to be pnp. Possible?

This post has been edited by xviiviiixiv: Oct 16 2017, 02:40 PM
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 16 2017, 05:20 PM

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QUOTE(man_sate @ Oct 16 2017, 05:05 PM)
Yes possible to pnp. Forged rod is there. I forget to recommend this.
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Any brand recommendation? Faito? True pnp, just buy and install without modification right?
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 16 2017, 05:38 PM

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QUOTE(man_sate @ Oct 16 2017, 05:34 PM)
CMS or Arata. Yes true pnp. No need modification.
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Noted, will take CMS then. Thanks! thumbup.gif
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 16 2017, 08:44 PM

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haiz, problem with this seller, end up never manage to get the block and all.

Anyone know of reliable shop that sell these items? CMS 62mm block + piston set and PE 28 carb. Preferably that can do shipping or if pick up, in JB area near stulang.

I can get UMA cause it's sold here locally. Is it good enough? Or should I just go with FZ set-up (57mm)?
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 16 2017, 09:03 PM

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QUOTE(apple_crumble @ Oct 12 2017, 12:53 PM)
5-Cylinder Block - SCK, the quality were great but need to see the pin piston, because if u want to change a new pin piston, u need to go to machine shop to cut or adjust. SCK pin piston not same with other type.

MDS also good choice, cheaper than UMA, can be considered too, but please check the piston material n everything.

CMS can be use because have two type, forged piston or std piston. but the price a bit higher than other.

SBM rare block, but very good quality plus have the deeper water space.

KFC block also good but rarely to find.

P/s - For myself, i'm prefer MB (Malay Bengkel) Block. Tested for long, track use, and also the engineering idea are good. two choice, std piston or dome piston.
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SBM or SBK block? BTW, heard of M-Mate block? Reliable?

Between 62mm, 63mm and 65mm block, which one is a better choice for daily use?
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 16 2017, 09:39 PM

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Trying to delete the above post, but cannot. Sorry I post many weird things.

Manage to get the 62mm block with my previous seller. Getting NSR carb but I got no idea what jetting to get. Does the type of cam I use affect the jetting sizing?

What will be the pilot and main jet for 62mm block and 28mm carb?

This post has been edited by xviiviiixiv: Oct 16 2017, 09:55 PM
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 16 2017, 09:57 PM

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QUOTE(man_sate @ Oct 16 2017, 09:24 PM)
Online shoping
- http://motor-part4u.blogspot.my/
- http://chmotorcyclestore.blogspot.my/
- http://syark86-pma.blogspot.my/

This 3 is reliable seller. I have buy many parts from them. They will post it.
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Bought from all 3 before and yeah, they very reliable. I was trying with this new seller from JB but fail la, so I decided to get from CH je.

Getting NSR carb (28mm) and 62mm CMS block set. The main jet and pilot jet pakai size ape?
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 17 2017, 06:49 AM

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QUOTE(man_sate @ Oct 16 2017, 10:11 PM)
Good. rclxms.gif  thumbup.gif
Start from
MJ (mainjet) - 150
PJ (pilotjet) - 38
Air screw - 1 1/2
Needle jet - no 3

Need to do plug check. Brown plug color is the good tune. White means lean. Black means rich.
White need to up your MJ/PJ.
Black need to lower your MJ/PJ.

Plug check
Outer of plug - for PJ
Inside of plug - for MJ
If unsure you can upload your plug picture here.

user posted image
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I buying the 5 MJ and 5PJ as it comes in a set, apart from MJ 150 and PJ 38, the other 4 can recommend the range?

Thank you!
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 17 2017, 12:26 PM

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Thailand Honda NSR Carburetor, should be original right?
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 17 2017, 04:23 PM

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Now waiting for the items to be shipped to me. Gonna have a lot more questions later, hope all the otai here can help me with the questions later notworthy.gif
xviiviiixiv
post Oct 20 2017, 11:36 AM

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QUOTE(crappy123 @ Oct 19 2017, 10:30 PM)
depends on your luck normally if its thai ori 140 bucks. u be like riding horse.
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Let's hope this incoming carb is ok, otherwise I'll change to UMA. rclxub.gif

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