make sure is original..BRT is most common along LCs

Good. Still strong after 5 years. You need to find seller that can provide 1 year warranty and read at BRT website to check the genuine BRT Cdi.

I never experienced UMA Cdi. Only Uma Carburetor I did use...
BRT Cdi plug n play if below 300. More than that is adjustable degree n rpm.
UMA Cdi if you have time and experienced to adjust the degree and rpm you can consider it.

You need to change your carburetor when the standard one cannot show the true performance of your big piston.
 

If your budget can go for UMA. Just get it. It just a waste when you not fully utilized it like I mentioned before. You can learn threw google or ask some experience formen regarding degree wheel. In fb their is shop that provide course for read degree wheel. Don't waste it.

What spec did you use now?

Im from Kajang.

Y&E Kajang before this ok. Now don't know because workers already change. You can try ask there.
If all still ori. No need to change big carburetor. You may start with Cdi then block, cam and valve spring. Or you can start with block, cam and valve spring ditch the cdi.
Previously I have build my friend bike without changing cdi. It increase performance but with rpm cut at 9.5k rather then aftermarket cdi which 13k to 14k. In the end, he change cdi. 
After all that, you can consider to change bigger carburetor.

ycgoh123many people go through this journey before... mod this and that. Ask everyone, all give different advise. Personally, ask yourself first, what do you want to achieve? Then, find a recipe to achieve that. CDI, porting, exhaust, carb... those are the means to achieve what you want. All have different function, and need to work together.

Some meaningful questions:
- how fast you want it to go? Peak HP
- how fast do you want to cruise at? Peak torque
- how much are you willing to spend
- how high fuel consumption can you tolerate
- how reliable does your bike have to be? max RPM, components... etc

Anyway, good luck in your search.

Save that money monthly, and upgrade to another bike.

No need to modify engine if 4 months old...I thought already several years...
You can change cdi improve you spark and rpm cut....
change coil plug for more spark...
change to aftermarket airfilter...
change racing clutch spring for good acceleration...
dont change to racing clutch plate...it's a waste...
setting your carburetor....

Usually they are riveted, or spot-welded.
Please share pic to see how yours was done.

May i know ur full spec?
there were many thing u need to check for setting.
In the carb also have many setting.
Torque or Top speed or save fuel efficiency and etc

u wan feel light and when pusing throttle need put high cam and porting the head in-ex hole bigger, set the mj n pj in carb.

Good combination.
Set the carburetor by yourself. Check your plug color. Brown color is the good tune.
This a base set for Uma 28mm
MJ = 110-115
PJ = 30-32
Needle = No 1 / No 2
Air mixture = 1 1/2 turn

Check your plug after setting.

get an adjustable CDI, and need an aftermarket exhaust to release the extra gas after engine CC increased.
I am using this combo, with custom intake, custom exhaust, custom head porting, race cam and fully adjustable CDI. the power is pretty good

intake as in air filter, or the funnel intake.
head ori with uma cam, most likely can't go high rpm, as the valve size and port size is small.

The reason is, when you increase engine size from 135cc to 178cc, there is alot more combustion gas in the engine. Using stock head means, you are limiting air into and out of engine like 135cc only, although your piston/block is 178cc.
This means, you can get max power very early (good pickup), but cant pull to high rpm as the power has clipped off (low top speed).

Besides this, UMA exhaust is designed for 150cc, the airflow out of engine isnt that good too.

U can increase the lightness and top rpm / top speed by changing the carburetor mainjet and CDI setting (recommend map3 +1).
However, as the basic mechanical has flaw, u need to change to UMA big valve head and a straight pipe (max 28mm primary pipe size) to get superb top speed.

Guys i want to upgrade my lc braking system. Last week usha here and there come up with 3 options.

1. Racing boy alloy disc with standard caliper+bracket
Disc plate same size as stock.

2.OEM LC 5S bigger disc. But need to purchase new bracket.

3.Maintain standard disc but upgrade caliper only to 4 pot or 3 pot.

Which one is the best to improve braking?

Tq

yes man.. once repair terus modi 62 block of fz 57 block can put high cam also if u wan, anytime cruise 140

cruise 110-120 @ rpm?

sprocket size?

up 38 see how