Bigger carb and race cam is meant to increase power 6000 - 12000rpm. Anything below 6000rpm will have drop in power, so u cannot suddenly go full throttle when launching bike at start, due to vacuum around intake area (race cam character). Stock cam and stock carb can do it as they are designed to have good power from 3000rpm to 7000rpm. So, when you ride the bike, first must understand the mechanics of race cam and bigger carbs. Of course, I am suspecting the carb setting isn't accurate too.
Besides, it is a weird combo: your race cam and big carb is meant for 6000 - 12000rpm power, but the head and pipe doesn't allow it. That's why the carb and CDI setting is tough, not easy to get accurate one.
Speed drop when 4th gear is because the exhaust (head and pipe) backpressure is too much, limiting the airflow. Pipe and head need to lepas more gas at higher rpm, so the engine can breathe in new fresh air.
stock pipe is even worse than UMA pipe. Open pipe need to custom make, I DIY ownself and ask fren to make it. Not expensive, just around RM250+
For my case polis no kacau bcoz when I cruise, the bike is very silent. Only when going all out, then the bike will scream (which sounds very nice).
Im from Penang. I only know Tuneboss fella in PJ, but they are not setting CDI/Carb.
penang many mechanic can mod decent lc with cam carb korek head and 62-65 block, bcome quite normal