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 Belkin Surge Protectors, How to switch off individual devices

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paskal
post Feb 20 2014, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Feb 20 2014, 05:13 PM)
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wow. that's not helpful.
i'm still processing.
... still ...
... still ...
... still ...
... error.
yup.
paskal
post Feb 20 2014, 11:17 PM

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From: Darul Aman
QUOTE(Papercut117 @ Feb 20 2014, 05:42 PM)
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Wow, that's alot of information to absorb.
My primary concern is power surges and then followed by lightning strikes.

I had an experience once where I switched on a regular power strip which had my pc, monitor and charger connected to it, it sparked a bit and then had a burning smell. Luckily none of my devices were damaged. What can I do to make sure that this can be avoided or at least have my devices protected from an incident like this?
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isolate your equipment into islands.
patch everything in that island into a belkin.
patch the belkin into a cal-lab.

it'll cost you ~rm300 and you're protected by the cal-lab SPD and can claim insurance from belkin if should the cal-lab fails.
money well spent.
paskal
post Feb 22 2014, 04:29 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Feb 22 2014, 04:19 AM)
First the house must be earthed to meet codes only for human safety.  Locate copper (4 mm) wires from the breaker box (power board).  These may be insulated green.  One may connect where a cold water pipe enters the house.  Another must go to an earth ground rod (electrode) typically located just outside.  These connections provide human safety.

  For transistor safety, these same connections must meet additional requirements.  For example, if a typically 4 mm ground wire from the breaker box (main switch panel) goes up over the foundation and down to the electrode, then it is too long, has too many sharp bends, and is bundled with other non-grounding wires.  It should be rerouted to go through the foundation and down to that electrode.  A critically important number was posted previously.  Less than 3 meters.

  A term 'low impedance' means a connection to earth must be short.  Just another reason why protectors adjacent to appliances are not earthed.

  The electrode is the single point earth ground.  Every wire inside each cable that enters a building must connect to that electrode either directly (ie cable TV, satellite dish) or via a protector (ie telephone, AC electric).  Thye electrode or a ground network is the all so criticallly important single point earth ground.

  An AC utility demonstrates this well understood concept with examples of good, bad, and ugly (preferred, wrong, and right) solutions:
  http://www.duke-energy.com/indiana-busines...tech-tip-08.asp

Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules are harmlessly absorbed.  Advertising is not selling earth ground.  So many only know what advertisers are selling - protectors.  Therefore many do not discuss what is most important (earth ground) and do not know what numbers are important.

  A typically destructive surge (ie lightning) is 20,000 amps.  So a 'whole house' protector for AC mains must be large enough to connect those hundreds of thousands of joules from the incoming utility wire to earth.  Therefore a minimal 'whole house' protector for AC electric is 50,000 amps.  Since protectors that fail (are grossly undersized) do not provide effective protection; do not maintain a connection to earth.

  That summarized protection as it was done even 100 years ago.  With numbers that define what is minimally sufficient.  And why even direct lightning strikes need not cause damage.  Not only a well proven and best solution.  Also a least expensive solution; a lowest cost per protected appliance.  Key to the entire protection 'system' is its most important component - single point earth ground.  That exists for human safety and is upgraded for transistor safety.
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not viable , not applicable for people who cannot access or change the building main ground connection. what about those who live in an apartment where the building grounding scheme are not accessible?

you approach also doesn't consider sparking, arching from a lightning strike where the surge doesn't enter from outside. it's pointless to fully shield the house only at the main grounding when the surge enters from say, the astro dish.
lightning strike the astro dish, or strike a pole near the dish and arch to the astro dish, travels itself down the coax, into your astro receiver and since the astro receiver doesn't have any safety earth connection, it'll run across the RCA jack into your TV, or short itself through the live or neutral wire into your power strip and damage everything connected to strip.

islanding and surge protection devices does work, according to the national lightning safety institute.
islanding and SPD is even recommended, refer http://www.lightningsafety.com/nlsi_lhm.html section 5.2

btw it's nice to sound expertly and such, but simple english are far better to convey what you're trying to explain. after all, we don't all hold a phd in electrical-ish to understand all the jargon.
paskal
post Feb 24 2014, 12:09 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Feb 22 2014, 06:32 PM)
You completely ignored what was posted.  Described was how a dish must be properly integrated into the protection system. And why a surge would not travel into the receiver via its coax.  Each complaint was addressed in one way or another.  By ignoring the science (by reading subjectively), then you failed to see how and why each concern was already addressed.  Even hypothetical sparks are only special effects from a Hollywood disaster movie.  Please discuss using science and numbers; without pyrotechnic speculations.
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which is easier and by far a cheaper solution?
isolation equipments into islands or re-doing the entire house electrical wiring and ground everything. yes, i'm sure rewiring the entire house is easier and cheaper.

QUOTE(westom @ Feb 22 2014, 06:32 PM)
Obviously earthing a receiver would make receiver damage easier. That should have been obvious.  Nobody said anything about earthing an appliance or receiver.  If comprehending underlying science and numbers, then an earthed receiver would never be mentioned.  Since reading English by ignoring science and numbers, then these simple concepts remain elusive.  Rather than preach denials as if you know this stuff, instead ask questions to learn why your concerns were already answered.  And to learn why you read what was never written.
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let's say i'm looking to ground my satellite dish so i don't need to ground my receiver.
i could go out the window and run a wire from the coax shield to a grounded metal pole, or i could buy a belkin (or a cal-lab) and run the coax through them and have it grounded that way. both would result in the dish be grounded, but one requires more labor.
paskal
post Feb 27 2014, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(westom @ Feb 24 2014, 04:46 PM)
Islands do not isolate anything.  And do not protect from destructive surges.  But many did not read what was posted with sufficient care.  For example, neb tried to combine urban myths about safety ground with surge protection.  His 'earthing the receiver' means a surge will use the receiver as a best and destructive path to earth.  Do not earth the receiver.  Earth the surge.

  Please return to earlier posts to grasp a critical point.  Safety ground in a receptacle is completely different from earth ground outside.  Also critical was this number:  ie 'less than 3 meters'.  If the surge does not connect that short to an electrode, then impedance is excessive; protection compromised.

  To protect an LNB and receiver, that coax wire must connect low impedance (ie 'less than 3 meters') to the same earth ground used by telephone, AC electric and any other incoming wire. (Other details also apply.  But cannot be discussed until these initial concepts are first understood.)  Obviously coax must enter at the service entrace.  The term is 'single point earth ground' - each of four words has major technical significance.  And it refers to a ground completely different from motherboard, receptacle, chassis, and other grounds.

  Easiest and cheapest solution involves proper earthing of one 'whole house' protector.  Belkin is a completely different device that creates confusion by using a same name.  Best solution means no rewiring anywhere inside the house.  Protection is same and best with both two wire and three wire receptacles - all unchanged.  An earth ground that must exist for human safety may need be upgraded for transistor safety.  And again, how much wire might need be rerouted?  The expression is posted repeatedly.  'Less than 3 meters'.

  Earth grounding a Belkin or anything inside creates human safety problems.  Those must connect to safety ground; not earth ground.  Surge protection is not about earthing anything inside a structure.  Surge protection is about earthing a surge BEFORE it enters.  Only then do we know where hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate.

  Concepts proven by over 100 years of science were even first demonstrated by Franklin in 1752.  Islanding and the Belkin both violate this well proven science.  To grasp this means first disposing of myths invented to promote Belkin sales.

Surges hunt destructively for earth via appliances.  Earthing any appliance only makes surge damage easier.  Please reread the previous post to better grasp what was originally written.
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you win
paskal
post Mar 4 2014, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(westom @ Mar 4 2014, 02:11 PM)
Those conclusions are invalid for many reasons.  The most obvious one: assumptions are devoid of numbers.  No numbers is a first indication of junk science reasoning.

First:
1) Turn it off?  Will a millimeter gap in a switch stop what three kilometers of sky could not?  Of course not.

  2)  Turning it off only disconnects one wire.  Other AC wires remain connected - also destructive surge paths.

3)  Fuse takes tens of millisconds or longer to trip.  Surges do damage in microseconds.  Easily, 300 consecutive surges could pass through a fuse before it even thought about blowing.

4) Surges are a current source.  That means voltage will increase as necessary to blow through any blocking device.  An open switch or fuse may claim 250 volts.  That means a surge simply increases voltages above 250 volts to conduct (blow) through that switch or fuse.

  Nothing stops a surge even though advertising wants all to promote that protection myth.  Any device that claims to stop a surge is bogus - a profit center.  Furthermore humans rarely are avaiable to disconnect or turn off anything. (8 hours sleeping, 8 hours working, 2 hours doing body maintenance, etc).  Disconnecting depends are a very unreliable actor - the human.  Furthermore surges even do damage before anyone knows a storm is approaching.  And that includes other surge sources such as stray cars, utility switching, and pesky rodents.

Second:  Disconnecting means everything must be disconnecxted.  That includes the air conditioner, all clocks, refrigerator, and the most important devices during a surge - smoke detectors.

Third:  An operating voltage is completely different from what devices can withstand without damage.  Phone may operate at -48 volts or lower.  But phones long have been designed to withstand up to 600 volts transients without damage ... for longer than anyone here has even existed.

  Ethernet has tens of times lower operating voltages.  And also must withstand up to 2000 volt transients without damage.  Do not confuse operating voltages with other voltages.

  Previously provided was a datasheet for an interface chips - single digit voltage signals - and also withstand up to 15,000 volts.

Fourth:  A thermal fuse disconnects protector parts as fast as possible.  To avert a house fire. An emergency device to only protect human life.  Thermal fuse leaves a surge connected to appliances.  Some only assume that maybe 1 amp thermal fuse does appliance protection.  It doesn't.  A blown fuse is the homeowner's last warning that his protecxtor was grossly undersized and a potential house fire.

Do not confuse a thermal fuse with another and completely different fuse - the line fuse or circuit breaker.

Finally: for over 100 years, there has been no alternative to this well proven concept.  Protection is about diverting surge currents to earth on a path that does not enter the bulding.  Either hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside. Or that current goes hunting for earth destructively via appliances ... no matter what magic device or disconnecting tries to stop it.  Those other techniques and protector are only for systems that first properly earth a surge current BEFORE it can enter a structure.

Protetion is always about and performed by earth ground.
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niceeeee.... voltage increase to compensate current to blow through a fuse or switch.

you go westom. explain to these little b****es us the proper way to insulate our house from those damned lightning strike surges. we need more guidance from you.
paskal
post Mar 5 2014, 10:26 PM

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QUOTE(neb @ Mar 5 2014, 01:20 PM)
http://www.lightningsafety.com/nlsi_lhm/IEEE_Guide.pdf

an interesting read on lightning protection in easy to read plain english

according to above IEEE paper, plug-in protector+building earth does work in protecting home appliances! Tenaga and telekom lightning protection system do not provide 100% lightning protection to home appliances
check out this forum, the same westom?
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2334015
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who is this ieee fella? must be some bogus commercial institution selling fake products. the paper must be a sales brochure.
must not be trusted this ieee fella. must place trust in westom.

must trust some random guy posting some random jargon in some random internet forum. better than trusting this ieee fella.
it's on the internet, i.e. it must be true. biggrin.gif
paskal
post Mar 7 2014, 11:19 AM

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QUOTE(westom @ Mar 5 2014, 11:44 PM)
And again, a claim without spec numbers.  How many volts is sustained overvoltage/undervoltage?  All appliances also feature sustained overvoltage/undervoltage protection well beyond what most will see.

  For example, an overvoltage that causes incandescent bulbs to fail twice as fast is ideal voltage for all electronics.  An undervoltage that causes incandescent bulbs to dim to 50% intensity is normal voltage for all electronics.  What is this sustained voltage that causes damage?

  What is that plug-in protector protecting?  An attached appliance or only itself?  Making such claims ALWAYS requires spec numbers.

  Lightningsafety.com shows how to use 'whole house' protectors and plug-in protectors as part of a 'system'.  And makes some important points.  A protection 'system' is defined by the one always required 'system' component - earth ground.  A plug-in protector does not make the earth ground connection.  The 'system' does not work without a 'whole house' protector to make that connection to earth.  On page 22:
  Required is to accomplish these three functions that no plug-in protector can do; only the 'whole house' protector can do:

A plug-in protector without a 'whole house' protector is ineffective - accomplishes near zero protection. And IEEE paper notes that a plug-in protector without a 'whole house' protector can even make appliance damage easier.

IEEE even provides numbers for what the 'whole house' and plug-in protetors do:  A plug-in protector adds maybe 0.2% protection - and only if a 'whole house' protector exists and is properly earthed.  The above quote even notes a plug-in protector must be protected by an earthed 'whole house' protector.
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say westom, are you based in malaysia?

 

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