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Model Kits Gundam & Mecha modelling thread V33, Gunpla builders assemble!

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TheAdmiral
post Feb 5 2014, 02:52 PM

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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Feb 5 2014, 02:31 PM)
This require for hand painting with micro brush like 00 or 000 size and steady hands. sweat.gif
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u forgot magnifying glass.

QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Feb 5 2014, 02:41 PM)
Sadly, my first few attempts to do this ended up with horrendous results laugh.gif Anyone here that actually paint the figure?
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very rarely u c ppl actually do it. Too much of a PITA and the final results no matter how good is drown out by the actual kit itself if u place it side by side due to size differences, meaning most of ur effort gone to waste since its so small that no1 would actually take notice unless u point it out or take really close up shots. Too much of a bother imho.
TheAdmiral
post Feb 5 2014, 04:55 PM

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QUOTE(onnylam @ Feb 5 2014, 04:31 PM)
With Bandai kept releasing mouth-watering kits, I don't need painting for a reason to keep buying new kits tongue.gif

Sazabi if I'm not wrong, have 3 shades of red; normal red, darker red, and a orange-red. Do correct me if I'm wrong...
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pure plastic is 2, the 3rd shade is via sticker ala nu ver ka.

QUOTE(orestes @ Feb 5 2014, 04:34 PM)
anybody own this MG?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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1 word, horrendous. Its not the worse of them all, but still pretty bad in comparison to modern MG's.
TheAdmiral
post Feb 6 2014, 09:25 AM

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QUOTE(orestes @ Feb 6 2014, 08:40 AM)
alaaa... tak cantik ke ...  sweat.gif
thinking of getting since it can transform..
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its an old transformable kit, old and transform dont mix well. Heck some newer MG that can transform dont even go together that well let alone an old design. Sure its not the worse of its kind, but its among the worse thats for sure.

if u just let it stand there then sure it look ok, but other then that its meh.

its a very old kit, technology in it is crude, transformation is clunky, mobility is close to non existence, proportion is off, and it doesnt even have a full inner frame. Action base is out of the question since this was made before Bandai introduces action base (i dont know if the generic base connector will even work but even if it does it wont be very good). In addition, because of this the G-Fortress mode is forever grounded, rendering it pretty much pointless since u cant put it up into the air as it is intended to be.

if u r a fan of its design and can accept all the above then sure go ahead and try it, at the very least u'll gain some experience building an old kit. However its not an amazing build experience and the outcome may be a let down to some.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Feb 6 2014, 09:26 AM
TheAdmiral
post Feb 6 2014, 10:37 AM

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QUOTE(orestes @ Feb 6 2014, 10:16 AM)
one that was on my wishlist ; mg gundam physalis ..
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thats an even bigger turd.

no full inner frame, bad seam lines, sticker for color separation, weight issue, limited articulation, horrible hand design, ridiculously unwieldy shield, bad nub marks, confusing manual, bad proportion.

stay away from it.
TheAdmiral
post Feb 8 2014, 08:47 AM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Feb 8 2014, 02:39 AM)
actually it does have 3 different shades of red in plastic, I even double checked mine
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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oh my sazabi is still sealed in the box, mayb the plastic bag make the color look the same to my eyes. I saw the red sticker just like nu black sticker and immediately thought thats the 3rd shade. My bad, thx for correcting.
TheAdmiral
post Feb 10 2014, 07:48 PM

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QUOTE(darude87 @ Feb 10 2014, 05:50 PM)
sry interupt any ongoing conversation, wanna ask the HG bearguy iii(san), got some extra parts look like acguy parts, any idea what is it for?

http://dalong.net/review/hg/bf05/th/s_bf05_20.jpg
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designing and maintaining a brand new mold is expensive. In the case of redesign (beargguy), Bandai will reuse existing molds to create runners that it is base upon (acguy) to cut cost. As such, there will be some excess parts not use in the said model kit.

just think of it as some bonus parts, keep it as future potential customization parts or replacement parts or testing parts or u can just throw it away if u wan.
TheAdmiral
post Feb 13 2014, 02:57 PM

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QUOTE(Vorador @ Feb 13 2014, 01:44 PM)
eh how many of you own MG Epyon here? Suddenly feels an strong urge to buy it...
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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


extremely underrated. One of the best kit of 2011

pros: Very solid for a transformable kit, good articulation, wing sliding gimmick, extremely articulated whip leading to many posing possibilities, unique beam saber (and glow under black light too just like unicorn psycho frame), easy transformation

cons: Lots of bad nubs, back heavy (however when fully extended the tip will reach the ground), out of the box the whip while articulated cant really stay in position (can be easily fix with a layer of paint/top coat)
TheAdmiral
post Feb 14 2014, 04:23 PM

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QUOTE(kyuen7 @ Feb 14 2014, 03:45 PM)
Can anybody explain to me what is 'g-system'? Where is it made? and is it licensed by Bandai? I know they make some different versions of the kits available or even unavailable ones...
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G System: one of many 3rd party resin kit maker

made in: hong kong

licensed by Bandai: no, the only resin maker authorize by Bandai is B-Club (they r a Bandai's subsidiary so thats a given)

price: extremely expensive since its not mass produce in the same scale as Bandai.

packaging: each parts come in its own plastic bag, there is no runners since each parts is individually casted

quality: great for a resin kit but cant compare with Bandai. Expect flashes, warping, imperfection etc all common problems associated with resin, the only thing is it has less problem then most other resin maker.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Feb 14 2014, 04:26 PM
TheAdmiral
post Feb 15 2014, 01:54 PM

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QUOTE(Zheng26 @ Feb 15 2014, 12:53 PM)
Manual brushing, apparently i don't own a airbrush was about to get one but still not sure yet. A question for the mr hobby paint i have to use thinner? any guides on manual brush painting?
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u need to thin it, paints straight out of bottle is too thick.

however in ur case, u have acrylic mr hobby aqueous. U hav the option to thin it with water rather then thinner (not recommended but still an option nonetheless).
TheAdmiral
post Feb 15 2014, 10:06 PM

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QUOTE(gunplakk @ Feb 15 2014, 02:13 PM)
Can aques thinned with water used for airbrushing? The drying will be slow right? I tried using tamiya acrylic with rubbing alcohol, it's but the end product becomes kinda sticky
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yes the drying will be slow, it tends to get a little runny and the ratio is also abit hard to get right. Its more suited for hand painting then ab, but so long as u get that milky consistency u can spray it out of ab no problem. Again while worked its not recommended, just think of it as cheapo alternatives or last resort in case u suddenly run out of thinner midway through ur painting.
TheAdmiral
post Feb 17 2014, 12:31 PM

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QUOTE(carpathia @ Feb 17 2014, 11:49 AM)
Put on top of the Detolf la..... eh...i remembered someone said Ikea Malaysia no longer selling Detolf...true or not
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No. The old detolf sku is being phased out, new sku is replacing it. The new sku is still called detolf but with different product id, to avoid confusion with 2 product with the same name with different id, ikea pull out the old detolf from shelf and labeled as "sold out" or no longer being listed by ikea pending the arrival of new detolf. The new detolf is the same as the old, just with different product id and different packaging. New detolf is being replace all around the world since beginning of January.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Feb 17 2014, 12:35 PM
TheAdmiral
post Feb 17 2014, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(St0rmFury @ Feb 17 2014, 02:52 PM)
That's good to hear. Any other difference besides the product ID?
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It came in 2 boxes now instead of 1, no idea what is in which box though. This is to distribute weight around so that its not so bloody heavy like the old everything in 1 box packaging. Not sure if u could buy each boxes separately though.

Other then that everything the same, as far as i know.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Feb 17 2014, 03:40 PM
TheAdmiral
post Feb 21 2014, 11:31 AM

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QUOTE(carpathia @ Feb 21 2014, 09:48 AM)
3800 YEN translate directly to RM122 (according to xe.com ) so, i was thought most resellers will increase a little to cover shipping/tax/margin cost
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No. The item says 3800 yen but that is SRP for consumers aka u and me, retailers buy at different rate + further discount due to bulk orders. How much it actually cost to the retailers per item depends on their negotiation skills or relation with distributor and r hence private and confidential.

But u can imagine its pretty cheap per item since they could sell each at roughly SRP (some even slightly lower then SRP) but still manage to keep the business afloat while paying utility bills, shipping, storage, salary + profit. If u c those charging much higher then SRP, it means they r either a bad negotiator or r targeting higher pure profit margin out of ur pocket.

In summary, if u c sellers trying to sell u a kit higher then SRP (higher by about 15bucks) u should try to avoid. Of course this only applies to normal releases.
TheAdmiral
post Feb 21 2014, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(carpathia @ Feb 21 2014, 02:35 PM)
Thanks for the info but most retailers here sell a little above Japan SRP right?

When I was in Japan I saw turn A going for less than Rm100 and that was when the yen was at its peak
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Slightly above by 2/3/5 bucks those r fine. But there r sellers that r ridiculous so just keep an eye out and avoid them if u can.

Japan has stiffer competition hence the cheap price. Buying in SRP in Japan is actually overprice since u can easily find stuff below SRP.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Feb 21 2014, 02:48 PM
TheAdmiral
post Feb 21 2014, 04:53 PM

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QUOTE(Exiled_Gundam @ Feb 21 2014, 04:10 PM)
Hahah not necessarily.. when I went to Japan last time many shop actually sells at SRP + GST; really need to go checking around to find shops that sell below SRP
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Show the cashier ur passport n u get 5% consumption tax discount, of course only apply to certain shops. Yodobashi sell at bellow SRP, show them ur passport n u get further 5% discount.

Infact even if some shops dont hav that discount, there r plenty of shops that give special sales price. Sinanju ver ka at 50% off is 1 i remembered, and that was 2 month after it was release.
TheAdmiral
post Feb 24 2014, 06:15 PM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Feb 24 2014, 05:54 PM)
I still fail to find the reason why HGUC Kshatriya Repaired cost about 7000 yen

way expensive than original one
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6500 actually, Japan VAT increase to 8%.

But still i agree its ridiculously expensive for a hguc. Its in the price range of big MG already, another 500 yen more and u can get a god damn Sinanju ver ka....

I duno, mayb they r bundling normal Kshatriya parts in it, mayb printing error, mayb Bandai smoke too much weed. Between this ridiculously price kit and another ridiculously price Neo Zeong, UC fans may well go broke.
TheAdmiral
post Feb 26 2014, 04:25 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Feb 26 2014, 02:43 PM)
off topic a while  notworthy.gif

the reason why Mobile Suits need legs in space explained tongue.gif
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

summoning TheAdmiral  whistling.gif
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hmm.gif not sure if this is the right thread but alright i'll entertain it. tongue.gif

universal century can get very technical at times but a lot of them technical rules r made up by themselves for themselves. UC also explain in vivid details (with actual formula to boot) on the physics of Minovsky particles but it doesn't exists nor will it ever exists because real world physic wouldn't support it. Its all made up in order to present the show as a real robot show, to present itself as hard science fiction rather then an all out space fantasy, to present some sort of justification as to why giant robot shooting pew pew lazor with psychic pilot in space exist within the universe. In the 70's, robot shows r confine to the realm of super robot genre, an all out fantasy setting in which they have no needs and no obligation to flesh out the technical aspect of the show. Gundam essentially created a new genre with its intricate details (albeit fictional), concept tech that could work, pseudo mathematical formulas, amalgamation of real world physics with its own made up physics, etc etc all this effort is to create an illusion for the viewers to present the show as real as it could be. Credit where credit is due, I salute Bandai and Sunrise dedication in fleshing out the Gundam universe (well the UC stuff anyway), the physics of the show may be largely fictional but its real enough to the general audience that the kids growing up watching it is inspired to go into scientific fields and/or intrigue them into researching and reading more scientific articles.

tldr: its all fictional. In fact 3 words is all we need to counter any reasoning for giant robot existence, square cube law. Ball is the closest mobile suit in terms of plausibility.

This post has been edited by TheAdmiral: Feb 26 2014, 04:28 PM
TheAdmiral
post Feb 26 2014, 06:53 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Feb 26 2014, 05:40 PM)
yeah i know it's fiction, but at least it's a more plausible reason to why they design space mobile suits with legs than how Treize explain it  laugh.gif  tongue.gif
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If u r more of a technical person u'll appreciate UC reasoning, if ur r more into the social aspect of a show u'll lean more towards Treize's reasoning.

both offers different take and explaination on what is otherwise a nonsensical element.
TheAdmiral
post Mar 2 2014, 10:11 AM

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QUOTE(Pony90 @ Mar 1 2014, 09:27 PM)
Guys... need help
Ok... i'm spraying my strike-e iwsp with some hardware spray can..
And shit happened... the paint won't stick on it.. and i wish to wipe it away...
And guess wad.. i'm so clever and i sink the parts into some hardware thinner...
And now.. those part almost melt into nothings..............
Guys,i need help to get those spare parts that i ruined...
Anyone selling here?
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No 1 sells spares here, or anyway outside Japan for that matter. If u look at the manual there is a section detailing how much each individual runner cost and order form but mailing is only valid in Japan. If u hav friends in Japan ask them to order and then mail it back to u or go pay a visit to YellowSubmarine, else buy a new 1.

What model u ruined? If there is *ehem* kit of it u can try buying that and scraping it for spares. *ehem* part dont always fits with ori, u'll need some mod work to fit, but at the very least its far more cheaper then buying a whole new ori kit just for 1 bloody parts.
TheAdmiral
post Mar 12 2014, 08:46 AM

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QUOTE(ralph_d @ Mar 12 2014, 01:05 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

help, my 3.0 have this problem, hand is loose already
any solution? or i have to accept this and move on
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3.0 hand the moment the joint pop off its forever loose, just reattaching it wont make any difference. Put a layer of super glue on the joint, let it harden first and then reattached it and see how. The extra layer of super glue could help in tightening the joint. If that fail then just accept it and move on.


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