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 Need help choosing rims etc.

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TSv1n0d
post Jan 8 2014, 09:41 AM, updated 12y ago

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I currently stay in an area with bad roads. There are potholes everywhere, and even when they're patched up, the patches are done very badly, leaving the roads uneven. After my Kenari's last service, the SA told me that I'll have to replace my engine mountings as they're damaged (the car started vibrating heavily over the last 6 months or so). In the same period, I visited a tyre shop to patch a leak and was told by the tauke there that one of my rims is damaged and should be replaced to prevent further damage from propagating to the rest of the car. Given that the engine mounting replacement is costly, I've saved up over the last few months to do major repairs this month.

I'd like to ask, what changes would you guys recommend to the tyres/rims/suspension etc. to make driving here less taxing on the car? I'd hate to replace the mountings only to be told I have to replace them again in the next 2-3 years.
cfa28
post Jan 8 2014, 10:24 AM

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Bro, a few simple suggestions.

1) Consider moving to another place

2) Drive slower. Even if the roads are full of potholes, if u drive like 20 km/h over them, the damage is minimal. But hitting a pothole at > 80 km/h is very damaging to any car.


Alan
post Jan 8 2014, 10:36 AM

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change to steel rim -> it won't crack in worst case.
TSv1n0d
post Jan 8 2014, 11:01 AM

Another roof, another proof.
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QUOTE(cfa28 @ Jan 8 2014, 10:24 AM)
Bro, a few simple suggestions.

1) Consider moving to another place

2) Drive slower. Even if the roads are full of potholes, if u drive like 20 km/h over them, the damage is minimal. But hitting a pothole at > 80 km/h is very damaging to any car.
*
I can't really move to another place, as it's my family house. The car is mainly left at home for my parents to use. We don't exactly drive fast, but driving here feels like an off road adventure. sweat.gif

QUOTE(Alan @ Jan 8 2014, 10:36 AM)
change to steel rim -> it won't crack in worst case.
*
I'm using the stock Kenari rims (I think this is steel, no?). A friend told me that I can get stock rims at a discounted price at the Perodua SC itself, because some people opt to swap for sport rims when they buy a new car. Does anyone know about this?
wayfeel
post Jan 8 2014, 11:05 AM

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I also have same situation as u as in our living place is quite horrible coz industrial area, uneven roads all the way home and too many bumps...I also very kesian my ride...my own way is just to drive very slowly sad.gif

How do you realise it is the mounting need to be changed oredy? Can it be felt or must be seen physically? How much your mounting cost? INM, I think generally should cost less than a thousand for all 3-5?


Alan
post Jan 8 2014, 11:23 AM

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QUOTE(v1n0d @ Jan 8 2014, 11:01 AM)
I'm using the stock Kenari rims (I think this is steel, no?). A friend told me that I can get stock rims at a discounted price at the Perodua SC itself, because some people opt to swap for sport rims when they buy a new car. Does anyone know about this?
*
The steel rim looks like this, usually comes with cap:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The usual "sport/alloy rim" is similar to this:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Steel rim is generally more durable.

This post has been edited by Alan: Jan 8 2014, 11:25 AM
TSv1n0d
post Jan 8 2014, 11:24 AM

Another roof, another proof.
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From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia


QUOTE(wayfeel @ Jan 8 2014, 11:05 AM)
I also have same situation as u as in our living place is quite horrible coz industrial area, uneven roads all the way home and too many bumps...I also very kesian my ride...my own way is just to drive very slowly sad.gif

How do you realise it is the mounting need to be changed oredy? Can it be felt or must be seen physically? How much your mounting cost? INM, I think generally should cost less than a thousand for all 3-5?
*
The car vibrates heavily, especially when idling. In my case, it rattles so much that the rear view mirror can't give a clear view unless the car is moving. I took the car to the Perodua center and had them do a full inspection. They found that my oil pan was leaking, and the mountings are damaged. Given that the tire shop guy warned me about this happening, I'm inclined to believe that it's the rough journeys that have caused the problem.

Stock mountings cost almost RM1k to replace. The SA told me that since the replacement involves removing the engine (which incurs heavy workmanship charges), I might as well fix as many problems as I can at the same time.

QUOTE(Alan @ Jan 8 2014, 11:23 AM)
The steel rim looks like this, usually comes with cap:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The usual "sport/alloy rim" is similar to this:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Steel rim is generally more durable.
*
I'm using the alloy rim (as in the 2nd pic you posted). No cracks so far, the tire shop tauke told me that the rim is dented and that the chambers have sustained damage as well.

This post has been edited by v1n0d: Jan 8 2014, 11:27 AM
mADmAN
post Jan 8 2014, 03:12 PM

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QUOTE(v1n0d @ Jan 8 2014, 11:24 AM)
I'm using the alloy rim (as in the 2nd pic you posted). No cracks so far, the tire shop tauke told me that the rim is dented and that the chambers have sustained damage as well.
*
means ur using 14" wheels. u could opt for a higher profile tire. the thicker sidewall can help absorb the bumps as well as give a slightly more comfortable ride. but check around and see whats the thickest profile u can fit for ur wheels/car.

or u could downgrade to 13" wheels and a thicker profile and go with that.. standard proton wira/satria used 13" wheels can be bought for cheap at tire shops (if they have them in stock, ur gonna have to find them)...or u could always find kelisa/kenari 1st gen 13" wheels.

suspension wise, leave it stock.

as for ur bent wheel, it can be fixed at most tire shops. camber wise, usually can be adjusted, but if theres actual damage to the arm or watever that affects the camber, then u definitely need to get that changed.

as for mountings, i have a feeling ur going for original perodua ones which can cost up to RM1k+... those are good and can last quite awhile. or u can opt for taiwan mounts at outside workshops which can cost as low as RM250, but will last 2-3 years.

when it comes to the engine mountings, no 2 ways about it, kenari uses 3 cylinder engines which vibrates alot more than the typical 4 cylinder engines... and this puts ALOT of stress on the mounts which is why they tend to die much sooner than 4 cylinder cars...same goes to the driveshafts as well. i change my kenari's driveshaft and mountings roughly every 3 years.

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jan 8 2014, 03:14 PM
Ericz
post Jan 8 2014, 04:43 PM

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down size rim for higher profile tyre

my previous hostel also same.. potholes and uneven road..

use the road almost everyday, but still can break my bumper (the holes like can move one zzzz even after a night can become so much deeper)

thn kena "square shape" hole.. rim dented, tyre bocor, suspension mounting giving up .. and waiting for the next problem to come mad.gif
TSv1n0d
post Jan 8 2014, 06:19 PM

Another roof, another proof.
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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jan 8 2014, 03:12 PM)
means ur using 14" wheels. u could opt for a higher profile tire. the thicker sidewall can help absorb the bumps as well as give a slightly more comfortable ride. but check around and see whats the thickest profile u can fit for ur wheels/car.

or u could downgrade to 13" wheels and a thicker profile and go with that.. standard proton wira/satria used 13" wheels can be bought for cheap at tire shops (if they have them in stock, ur gonna have to find them)...or u could always find kelisa/kenari 1st gen 13" wheels.

suspension wise, leave it stock.

as for ur bent wheel, it can be fixed at most tire shops. camber wise, usually can be adjusted, but if theres actual damage to the arm or watever that affects the camber, then u definitely need to get that changed.

as for mountings, i have a feeling ur going for original perodua ones which can cost up to RM1k+... those are good and can last quite awhile. or u can opt for taiwan mounts at outside workshops which can cost as low as RM250, but will last 2-3 years.

when it comes to the engine mountings, no 2 ways about it, kenari uses 3 cylinder engines which vibrates alot more than the typical 4 cylinder engines... and this puts ALOT of stress on the mounts which is why they tend to die much sooner than 4 cylinder cars...same goes to the driveshafts as well. i change my kenari's driveshaft and mountings roughly every 3 years.
*
Very informative post. Thank you.

Yes, I'm getting original mountings. I've had a string of leaks that were fixed at third party mechanics, and they were beginning to drain my wallet on a monthly basis, so I opted to get everything sorted out at a Perodua center. I've not checked on the driveshaft, I'll make a note to do that when I send the car in for repairs. Also, I didn't realize I mistook chamber for camber, I swear the guy at the shop pronounced it that way!

I do have some follow up questions, if you don't mind:
1. How do I request for a thicker profile rim?
2. Does downgrading from 14" to 13" tires have any adverse effects on the vehicle?

mADmAN
post Jan 8 2014, 06:52 PM

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QUOTE(v1n0d @ Jan 8 2014, 06:19 PM)
I do have some follow up questions, if you don't mind:
1. How do I request for a thicker profile rim?
2. Does downgrading from 14" to 13" tires have any adverse effects on the vehicle?
*
For number 1:
u dont request for a thicker profile rim... the rim remains the same... u request for a thicker profile tire.

how to tell the tire profile is from the overall tire size. most tires sizes are displayed as (Width)/(Profile) R(size) which are usually printed on the side of the tire.

so for 195/55 R15.... 55 is the profile basically the bigger the number, the higher the profile (aka the thicker the tire sidewall)

so 195/50 will have a thinner sidewall/lower profile than the 195/55... i wont go into how the sidewall is calculated, as its not relevant now...

im not sure of the stock kenari's tire size for 14" wheels, but i have heard of people going to higher profile tires and gaining more comfort. unfortunately, i cannot give u the recommended size as i have never used 14" wheels on my kenari or on my ex-kelisa so that info was never relevant to me.... perhaps try googling for the thickest tire profile that can fit a kenari 14" wheels.

take note though, higher profile tires will most likely cost slightly more than a lower profile tire of the same brand n model.


For number 2:
actually, ull probably get more benefits from downgrading to 13" and the stock 1st gen tire size which is 165/60 R13... theoretically, there should be a slight increase in pickup and maybe even better fuel consumption. and of course when going smaller wheels, tire profiles will increase hence give u better comfort.... tire prices "might" be cheaper too...not too sure about the prices part as ive never compared them.

downside is, tire choices are a lil limited... availability is easy...just not much choices, and perhaps handling performance will be slightly compromised though i doubt u or whoever else drives this car will notice the change in handling.

and of course, theres the whole looks thing....cars typically look better with bigger wheels and low profile tires... but im fine with my kenari biggrin.gif
TSv1n0d
post Jan 8 2014, 07:25 PM

Another roof, another proof.
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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jan 8 2014, 06:52 PM)
For number 1:
u dont request for a thicker profile rim... the rim remains the same... u request for a thicker profile tire.

how to tell the tire profile is from the overall tire size. most tires sizes are displayed as (Width)/(Profile) R(size) which are usually printed on the side of the tire.

so for 195/55 R15.... 55 is the profile basically the bigger the number, the higher the profile (aka the thicker the tire sidewall)

so 195/50 will have a thinner sidewall/lower profile than the 195/55... i wont go into how the sidewall is calculated, as its not relevant now...

im not sure of the stock kenari's tire size for 14" wheels, but i have heard of people going to higher profile tires and gaining more comfort. unfortunately, i cannot give u the recommended size as i have never used 14" wheels on my kenari or on my ex-kelisa so that info was never relevant to me.... perhaps try googling for the thickest tire profile that can fit a kenari 14" wheels.

take note though, higher profile tires will most likely cost slightly more than a lower profile tire of the same brand n model.
For number 2:
actually, ull probably get more benefits from downgrading to 13" and the stock 1st gen tire size which is 165/60 R13... theoretically, there should be a slight increase in pickup and maybe even better fuel consumption. and of course when going smaller wheels, tire profiles will increase hence give u better comfort.... tire prices "might" be cheaper too...not too sure about the prices part as ive never compared them.

downside is, tire choices are a lil limited... availability is easy...just not much choices, and perhaps handling performance will be slightly compromised though i doubt u or whoever else drives this car will notice the change in handling.

and of course, theres the whole looks thing....cars typically look better with bigger wheels and low profile tires... but im fine with my kenari biggrin.gif
*
Ah, okay. I'm fine with it not looking great, it's family car anyways. I read in another forum that there are more tire choices available for 14" rims, so I'll look into the options available here before I make a decision. Thanks for your help. biggrin.gif

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