To my knowledge:

W = oil viscosity under cold temperatures (winter level)
30/40 = oil viscosity under normal/hot working temperature

That's just my simple understanding though. You can google for more information.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Mar 19 2014, 09:26 PM

Last time I also almost hit a BMW X3 in gold/brownish/orange color if I'm not mistaken cause I followed too closely. But luckily even without ABS the tyres don't really lock so often under hard braking and dry conditions, and that was with the Conti CC1s. Under wet condition though it's like guaranteed to lock even with the weak brakes and even without pressing it all the way. Right now my car has the Kumho KH17s, and they suck so bad even in the dry compared to the CC1 even though they're relatively new.

Shell

How old is your car?How does the sound sound like?

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Mar 21 2014, 12:06 PM

Me, but I normally fix that by adjusting the angle of the nozzle. I also don't put the nozzle into the filler hole completely.

Zew zew zew?

Mine used to have the wheeeeee sound when turning left or right, standstill or moving. Changed power steering fluid and it went away. Power steering fluid is not so expensive anyway.

What sort of problems?

Depends... You should search via Google about CV joints / drive shaft noise and see if it's similar to what you're experiencing. Why don't you take a look at the drive shaft area and see if the rubber boot for the CV joints is still in one piece? If it is broken chances are it's time to replace the CV joint / drive shaft.

Shouldn't it be easier to stop since the engine slows quicker with the LCP?

Yup. I noticed that too since I always shift to N before slowing to a stop completely.

If you like coming to a complete stop at traffic lights w/o the usual jerk that most cars have, that's what you can do . But you need to reduce the braking force when shifting to N at the same time otherwise the car will just nose dive further and make it uncomfortable.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Mar 21 2014, 03:17 PM

If you're paying for me I'll be ready whenever you are

Whatever it takes to get something

Respray (outer body only) - Roughly around RM2000 or so for a Persona. Remember for respraying you get what you pay for, so don't try to save or you may/will regret it.. just like I did. Choose the paint shop carefully. A set of front and rear shocks for the Persona will cost you about between RM350 ~ RM400 if you're buying them from spare parts shop. There are a few to choose from like Kayaba, APM and Sachs. What's an EU system?

You can bring your car to any workshop and they should be able to get the job done. But as usual for workshop choose one that you frequent so that you won't get chopped. If you don't have one that you trust, I suppose the best bet is still to bring it to a Proton service center or something. If you're able to travel to Sungai Buloh, I could suggest a shop there that resprays car. The price there is slightly on the higher side (got quoted RM2400 last time for a full outer body respray, 2K metallic; 3 layer base and clear), but they have demonstrated how they paint their cars, and it's done in great details, unlike the one that I went to at Subang Jaya / USJ last time.

P.S I'm still pissed off at the paint job quality my car got from <insert> even though it's at least one and a half years already.

Taking eco-friendliness to the next level? Petal as pedal?



This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Mar 21 2014, 07:52 PM