hehehehehe in lowyat oso got wat....

for music...sealed sub...i like....

come come come.....mau home demo???

duoble posting again

This post has been edited by hushymushy: Oct 13 2016, 11:25 PM

jamesleetech

pre/power is definitely a better choice and without a doubt.....similar in a HT setup...a pure processor with ext power amps is the right move after AVR.....

an AVR rated 200watts can never beat a proc/power setup even rated at the same power.....technically speaking, power amp the gain stage is one notch above...

its similar in integrated stereo amps...no matter how much power they put into it....a pre/power setup will be better
this is to do with the power supply....unless they make integrated amps to the size of 4U servers...hehehehehe

in an AVR...the power supply is limited due to space....so it has to power from digital circuits to pre stage and power stage...worse is the switching power supply which typically kills off the sound quality...hence the use of class D to lower down the power consumption...AVRs generally rated between 300watts to 500watts of power consumption...

pure processors generally take about 50watts to 110watts of power consumption...and most power amps consume 800watts of power minimum...so that already tells you that pro/power will deliver more dynamics and headroom

which is also why i have my music gear separated from HT....again...the power supply noise gets into my music chain and that will kill my audio nirvana

in higher end gears...even CD players have dual power supply....one for digital circuit and another for analog circuit...this is to reduce cross talk and power feedbacks...the cd player will be dead silent
which is going to be my next project...a separate power supply for oppo 105d....but it will take time to figure out

you are right about my connecting chain....except that the LS17 bypass only works for my left and right front channels.....the other 5 channels is from my Denon pre to Medusa amp directly...

reason i do this is bcoz my L&R is powered by the Ref110...which only accepts 1 pair of XLR inputs.....

i only have 1 room....and my equipment keep piling up

I have a clearaudio TT, oppo, AVR, 2 x power amps, frank power, phono amp & a pre amp
although i'd love to go for a proper full processor for HT....i've also an issue with space for equipment...which keeps piling up
plus I can't have my rack too high...otherwise it'll block my screen...macam macam issues

the other thing i have tried is loaning a stereo amp for my Atmos speakers
1 pair powered by the 7 channel and another pair powered by a separate stereo amp...it sounds weird and out of sync.....

so its either I get another 5 channel amp or 2 x stereo amp of the same brand/model for my Atmos....if Medusa came with 9 channel class AB....that would have been perfect...hahahahahahaha

if you think Olympica 3 is good...wait till you try Amathi and above...hahahahahahahaha

Ben sifu....one unit almost sold....but its unit #2.....unit#1 still available


This post has been edited by hushymushy: Oct 14 2016, 12:54 AM

SSJBen 3 subs is better than 2....

2 in front and 1 for the rear....sibeh sui....the ambiance and feel is way different!

its not about loudness.....but the airiness and realism feel is hell out of this world

i've listened to such setup....man...even for music...the elevation is totally different

unfortunately I don't hv the budget right now...if not i would have kept my sb2000 and play something different in the setup....

put the 2 sb2000 to my rear part of the room.....LPF to 50Hz.....let it play the very low subtle frequency....or perhaps maybe try out of phase setting

jamesleetech another thing to highlight between AVRs and processors

between AVRs itself.... the difference in the digital decoding and DACs plays a huge difference in sound

example: X6200 vs X7200WA where X6200 is a tri processing while X7200WA uses quad processing power to handle the multi channels....

between Denon X7200WA and the rest of the AVRs....its a monolithic power stage class AB...hence its power consumption of 700 over watts

also it has individual per channel DAC

hence an X5200 is not a comparison against 8802A

8802A shares the same design as 7200WA.....minus the power stage....

a dedicated HT processor is usually the flagship of the brand.....so the components is off different grades....

at the end of the day....an amplifier is as good as its power supply...that includes the incoming power feed from the DB box....

currently for my power....i've almost gotten it there (except asking TNB to put up another separate pole....hahahaha like the guy in Japan)

and i'm not saying just the tail end power cord...it starts with having a separate phase power....separate grounding....matching of cable impedance...ground feedbacks....power resonance....even the damn power socket now gives my system different energy level....

i'm not sure how your Mcintosh is being powered up....but having the right power setup brings a whole new level to the system...and I am not talking about power conditioning yet...

This post has been edited by hushymushy: Oct 14 2016, 12:47 AM

Will keep you posted too....so far the newer one sold.

The other one pending payment.

Nice

there's a lot to just a cabling question....whether a branded will be better than an OEM.....short answer....not necessary

understanding basic fundamentals regarding cable cores, cable materials and some electrical and electronics will come in handy

some people believe cables won't make a difference....some believe it does....

it all starts with your very home power cabling....

from the fuse to the wall socket.....if you are running a single 2.5mm cable from ur fuse to your wall socket which shares among maybe 4 to 5 equipment...
if you think a Richard Gray or Quantum Resonant can help you fix your power issue......then the way off applying is wrong....

to begin with proper cabling...it would be advisable to multiple fuses and multiple power lines going from your fuse to your equipment....
esp the power amps and subwoofer should have its own dedicated powerlines.....
why??

bcoz generally in MY....when electrician lay consealed cables, they will use the normal Mega/Fajar/Jaya 7 strand copper cables....so unless you specify to use a 75strand or 105 strand copper.....

what's the difference? basically speed of electrons travelling over the surface of conductor....this is something perhaps read in E&E.....also....current flows to wherever that has a lower impedance....

in short.....if you are using a common wall socket that you are not sure connected so whatever other house hold items....a few hundred or few K power cord....will not do any good....bcoz the setup is not optimized nor able to show any benefits of the cable


cabling material....you can read about the various types of coppers.....why some use upocc...some use HPOFC...

termination......well...yes and no.....let's talk about wall socket first....is there a difference between brand A....brand B and normal house hold???
Yes....in terms of the built quality, material and EMI rejection
If you have a EMI tester pen (you can get from Mr.DIY cheap cheap)....those are what electrician use to search for power cable...esp in-wall power cable

you can try it on different brand metal wall socket plate....be it Sine, Furutech and so on...so far Furutech is the only 1 I have tested with an EMI pen where the plate is able to remove the EMI...how did they do it?? I have not answer.....the closest possible answer I have is the grounding
why is this factor important?? I have tried over and over switching between brands... and material....the removal of this EMI at the socket creates a proper clean background and very low floor noise...

second factor is the internal connecters esp if you use US wall sockets.....the copper strips between the top and bottom plug have high impedance....again....Furutech and Wattgate have better quality parts

I have perhaps 4 types of wall socket in my audio room....do they sound different...they do...in an 'analog' system...in a digital system like AVR or for HT....the difference is there but not so apparent....
some even call me 'sinkalan'....you don't try...u won't know.....

termination heads....does it make a difference...well if you use basic household brands like MK or Schneider....dont invest in stuffs like Furutech or Wattgate or watever other brand...

interconnects....honestly...if your source is not any top notch or ain't analog.....again...don't waste your money
your sound is only as good as your source....dumping few K on cable hoping to hear magic??
but if you are running something like DCS....or Audio Research Reference....or something highend...yes....it will make a difference

again....the higher end the gear....the more quality and resolution it brings on the output...therefore every bottleneck needs to be checked....

but if you are talking about Oppo to a good projector like JVC....will a 20k HDMI make a difference???
nope.....digital signal is more of meeting the compliance spec....I rather spend on the screen and projector calibration

analog interconnects....for HT....does it make a difference....yes but not significant between say a Gotham vs a Transparent Ultra

so in short...my point here is that....cables should be your last of the worries for now
if you have some budget and thinking of getting your equipment sound even better.....focus on your incoming power

when I first did my audio room...the first thing i invested was a 3 phase power for my house..
with 1 phase dedicated for my audioroom....
second...i invested in good quality fuses like Hager....invested in installing a separate earthing rod
3rd....proper 4mm cabling for the room

the second is equipment and speaker placement.....more than often...unchecked resonance kills your sound...
we have alot 'in-house' experts who can tell you all about it

end of day.....this is a long journey.....happy playing and enjoy the movie or music...thats more important

well some people may not have the luxury to break walls and rebuilt....i only had the opportunity when I renovated my house

also bcoz some retailers do not share such information...not everyone is educated about E&E basics right....
plus ppl wanna sell stuffs...so its like that lor

in actual fact....hacking the wall and changing the fuse box and even equipping the sockets with Furutech wall socket is still cheaper than buying conditioners.....

actually just a generic question ah.....dont marah me ok

for Darbee setting...do you all use alot?

for me...after the projector calibration...the Darbee is used about 5%....

what about u guys?

jamesleetech yah....i can see the grain quite bad if i set it higher than 8%....
at 5% for me is a balance of sharpening but not too much...

the grain is probably also bcoz I zoom my projector alot due to screen size....