No golden rule.
Most competent speakers should be able to play with authority down to at least 60-80hz, making 80hz a very nice balance point as a crossover for most situations/rooms.

I personally have my LCRs at 60hz, surrounds and heights at 80hz.

But at the same time, I've heard and seen a few people who employs a minimum of 6 subs in the room but has LCR speakers that can play down to 40hz easily yet cross them at 100hz. Because of how even the bass is in the room due to the multi subs config, even at 120hz it is very difficult to localize where the subs are yet at the same time the LCR speakers sound extremely cohesive with the entire system.

Various factors.

1) Speaker placement, how close are they to any boundaries? From your post, sounds like YPAO is setting your fronts to 40hz because they are getting a lot of gain between 40-80hz, thus it detects them as full range speakers which is wrong.

2) Maybe your speakers -3db roll off is at 100hz, thus the close it is to the -3db cut the better it performs. What speakers are you using again?

3) Crossovers are room and system dependant. Your same system may have an entirely different crossover setting in my room for example.
Not exactly.

The more subs you have, the more headroom you have.
In fact, the more subs you have, the easier it is to tame the room modes and to reduce excessiveness of volume at any frequency.

Using a high crossover is simply for the simple fact that multiple 15" drivers (as an example) is always going to beat the usual 6.5 to 8" drivers on most L/R loudspeakers in efficiency and output.

According to this measurement from stereophile;


Your 683s -3db point is around 50hz. It rolls off to -6db at 33hz.
A picture of your room would be best to illustrate your placement though. 2.5ft from a wall boundary doesn't actually mean much, because 2.5ft may not actually be the minimum 1/4 wave length of your entire room.

An example;
If a room's length is 18 feet, then the wave cycles is approx 60. So if we take 18ft and divide it by 4 as per the 1/4 rule, the result is 4.5 ft. So you need to calculate your room's wavelength first before you actually place your speakers.

If you are very anal retentive about the placement, then next you will have to calculate the cancellation notch for your speakers. The formula is dmin (feet) = 1.4(1125) / 4f-3dB.
The f3 point is the -3db point of your speakers, which is around 50hz there are or so.

Generally people always recommend to have about 2-3 ft of space from the front wall and around 3 - 4ft off the side walls. This is just a very vague, general recommendation. Often times, it can be wrong because people generally forget that we don't all have the same room dimensions.

popping sound when turn it on is normal(  ),but turn off i'm not sure.your sub svs right?

Some plate amps has a relay on them that when you turn it on or off, they will have click/pop noise.

However, no Sledge amps that I know of used by current SVS models has a relay on them. Correct me if I'm wrong though, I'm not 100% sure on this but I haven't actually seen any.

Which Klipsch sub?

The only Klipsch sub that I feel is fairly decent is the R112SW. But honestly, it isn't priced too well - another 800-900 and you can get yourself a PB2000/PC2000.

Maybe just get an SB1000 then?

Room dimensions would be helpful to suggest a sub.

did you enable any yamaha sound effect program? or pure/straight mode?

I don't t think it's avr problem. More like dsp effect. Why don't you set to straight (aka pure direct) mode and confirm?
I'm always on pure direct. Dialog lift if you need the front height speakers to augment your center channel. Other than that, i don't see the need for extra dsp, but some may like it.

Understand that Atmos is object based audio mixing. Sometimes if voice CAN indeed come from your surround or even height speakers. It can be purposely done that way by the director.

But if you're talking about hearing voices constantly on all your speakers no matter the content, then yes - Yamaha's DSP could also indeed map voices to your surround speakers. Which DSP setting are you using?
When playing Atmos (or DTSX) content, I just use straight. In fact, I use Straight for ALL content. I don't know why you'd want to use any DSP to mess with the audio.

Which model of Yamaha you are using ? If you have the surround AI function enable that will be good

I never use DSP mode before on A3050. Currently I am using the CX5200 with the surround AI is really nice 😁

Well... it's your speakers, you can set them however you want.

But scientifically speaking, why would you bass manage all your speakers except your surround? That doesn't make any logical sense.