not only that its also got subwoofer htbypass very handy if you doing 2.1

Yes, you can but I don't see any reason for you to use CD Player 3 types of outputs connected to the same pre-amp loh. What you should do is test which type of connection to the pre-amp that gives you the best sound. If CD Player co-axial out to pre-amp seems to be the best for you, then not necessary for you to use CD Player RCA and Optical out to the same pre-amp.

I have a CD Player which I use its 3 type of outputs to 3 different devices... Coaxial out to my External DAC 1, Optical out to my External DAC 2 and RCA Interconnect out direct to my HT Pre-Amp. By connecting in this way... hehe... I have 3 different "flavours" of sound loh.

Of course different quality cables between the 3 types do affect the sound quality but let's not make it more complicated by temporarily ignoring this. When you connect CD Player 3 different types of output to the same Pre-Amp, the difference that you may hear will be whether its digital or analog. CD Player Co-axial and Optical output is digital which means that you are basically using the pre-amp to decode the audio... for RCA Interconnect, the CD Player decodes first (also using its internal clock) and output analog audio to the pre-amp which just amplifies the signal and passes it to the power amp. What this means is this... do you feel that your CD Player internal DAC can perform better than your Pre-Amp, then use RCA Interconnect BUT if you feel that your Pre-Amp can do a better job, then use Co-axial or Optical.

To better understand this "digital and analog" thing, l use my Oppo BDP-105D as an example. 105D has a good internal DAC so its XLR out to my HT Pre-Amp so it means my 105D internal DAC decode first. However when I use either 105D Co-axial or Optical out to my Pre-Amp, I can use my 105D Settings to change the way the audio is output to my Pre-Amp. When I set my 105D to "Bitstream", the 105D Co-axial and Optical output will be sent out "Raw" without 105D internal DAC touching the sound and so let my Pre-Amp to decode. When I set my 105D to "48/96/192 PCM", it means my 105D internal DAC decode first, audio sent out and then my Pre-Amp decode again!!

When setting the 105D "Co-axial/Optical" audio output to "Bitstream", I must make sure my receiving "device" can decode the raw untouched audio. Ok... let's say I use 105D to play a DSD 64bit 354khz file so this bitstream setting and Coaxial out to my HT Pre-amp play perfectly because my HT Pre-Amp can decode such DSD file. BUT... when 105D "bitstream" Co-axial out to my External DAC, then only got hissing sound because the international standard maximum for Co-axial output is 24bit 192khz and Optical/Toslink is 16bit 48kHz (not sure of this maximum) so I need to set 105D to decode first to PCM and then send out to my External DAC... hehehe. Crazy, isn't it? Mmm... I do notice that there are external DACs that do support maximum 24bit 192khz for Optical connection

DSD is basically is the file format used by SACD discs. Most (maybe all) SACD discs have 2 layers, CD and SACD layer. When I play with 105D, the player will read the SACD layer so the Co-axial/Optical still needs to set to "PCM" out to my Ext. DAC. Of course, playing the multi-layer SACD using a CD Player don't have any problem because my Ext. DAC can decode 16bit 44.1khz loh.

For your situation with the CD Player, it don't have such "bitstream or PCM" setting. This means your CD player will always function as a "Transport" without its internal DAC decoding when you use its Co-axial/Optical out loh. And when you use the CD Player RCA Interconnect, it means that you are using its internal DAC to decode first. Connecting the CD Player to an External DAC or to a bluray player (Oppo BDP-105D) will play perfectly because CD is always 16bit 48KHz.

There are such "CD Transports" available and its not cheap. Example... CEC TLOX CD Transport.
http://www.cec-web.co.jp/products/cdplayer...x/tl0x_rup.html

What's the difference between CD Transports and CD Players? Simple... CD Transports don't have Internal DAC! When you look at the rear of the CEC TLOX, there is NO RCA Interconnect (analog) Output because no Internal DAC. The CEC TLOX only have Co-axial, Optical and AES/EBU output which are all digital outputs.

Yes, eventhough not necessary, there is nothing wrong to use your CD Player 3 different outputs to the same Pre-Amp because it will NOT damage your Pre-Amp. Probably you feel that the CD Player internal DAC (RCA Interconnect) perform better for Jazz CDs and the Co-axial (Pre-Amp DAC) is better for Rock CDs. Well, just understand that the DAC is the big boss that decodes the audio so which DAC (CD Player or Pre-Amp) performs better can also depend on your own ears ultimately, hehehe. Just understand which DAC is doing the job, what cable quality to use and finally let your ears decide.

I hope I have not confused you. I can be very looooong winded in my explanations, my bad habit. If anyone finds any errors, please do correct me.

Oh, Parasound Halo P5 is a very good pre-amp. I recently bought the Parasound A23 Stereo Power Amp for my 2 surround speakers. 125watts @ 8 ohms per channel is enough for my surrounds.

Regards.

Let me quote your earlier reply below...
You said you intend to get A21 or A23 so that's why I also give the price of A21. You should already know the A21 watts so why you also mention A21 as one of your choices?

It won't be a day and night difference. The signature character won't change that much after burn in. It is usually marginally better.

Yday,  a cust asked me about calibration whether he can get huge improvement if he redo it again. Well, if you had done it right at the first place for your new equipment, the second one will not yield a big improvement (unless you screwed up badly on the first calibration)

What did I say that have offended you? Accusing me of being paranoid when I said that "Lifespan too long also no good, old things don't go.. blah blah" which I intended as a cheeky joke! Lol... why are you so uptight? Seriously?

Nobody even mentioned about trolling here. Not to worry, I did not think that you were trolling in any way. Oh... trolling is clearly an assumption made by you. You also do make assumption too. Is it bad? No... its perfectly okay! I will NEVER think that you are being paranoid about "trolling".

Man... you are certainly a person who clearly don't like me making "assumptions" here. You can but I cannot make assumptions?  There were no assumptions for the "Smart TV" explanations made by me. Did you read this sentence... "I think it may affect lifespan only a little bit" which I actually meant as "don't make any difference". This was my answer to Dickong who asked "will it shorten the life span". Yes, I can accept it if I have been too much in giving out my suggestions on how to improve lifespan and just because of this, you think that I am paranoid?

I did not say that I was worried about lifespan. In fact.. when I said "If still worried about TV lifespan, here is what you can do", I was merely replying to Dickong who was worried about the lifespan ! Do you also mean that Dickong was also paranoid for worrying about the lifespan? I certainly am not worried about lifespan because I "usually" change my TV every 3 years.

You said... "all this lifespan thing were developed/assume by you".. are kidding me? ALL things last forever? Just like a dog with average lifespan of 11 years and humans with around 80 years do NOT mean no lifespan. The difference is just how "long" anything lasts. Even if a LED TV lasts 30 years (assume only) doesn't mean there is no lifespan. As I said before.. any reduction in lifespan from changing any settings in a "Smart TV" is little which only affect lifespan minimally.

Sarcasm won't get you any respect ! Yes, you can disagree with any of my comments and "assumptions" there but do explain your reasons instead of just calling me paranoid and making the ridiculous comment of "go back and use CRT TV".

Maybe you think that I deserve being labeled as paranoid. As far as I am concerned, I won't call you with whatever names because I will still try to be as respectful as possible. Rest assured that I do have a couple of nasty words to use but I will never use it to annoy you or anyone.

Well... this is what I get for trying to help others here. I don't expect any favours returned for any good deeds but I will still be civil and continue to respect people (including you) without using any "undesirable" word or words. I will not be nasty eventhough being treated as such.

Anyway, with all being said... my bad... I am sorry if I have caused you any annoyance with my "lifespan joke" or anything in my comments. Is that enough to cool you down?

Merry Christmas and A Happy New Year to you and your family. May this festivities also bring goodwill and tolerance to everyone.

No problem

lol your next chase will be OLED 

Arrived today
[attachmentid=8328262]

Did you switch your pre amp to the correct input from AVR

did u assign avr preout correctly ma?
if not assign or wrong channel is no sound

Yamaha aventage rite.
Using What pre amp