What are the ways to reduce car's engine noise and changing the engine sound besides adding insulation?

use friction reducer products like torco mpz or liqui moly ceratec.

most of the noise from the engine is due to friction....by adding products above, it bonds to the metal and acts like a slippery lubricant.

pros - engine becomes smoother, less engine sound and longer engine line
cosn - engine braking is not as effective as before and a bottle can cost between 100-150

No other way. Only insulation. And no sports exhaust.

I oso very interested.
Insulation can only do so much to a practical extend.

So far i added some weights to the engine cover to reduce the vibration and cover the firewall with heavy rubber mats.

Its the internal vibration , using good engine oil reduces friction and vibration . Mass produced engine high high tolerance unlike sports/supercar with very very low tolerance in their engine fittings

I don't really buy into such products as many of them are just snake oil stuff and even detrimental to the engine as they can become oil sludge! Just buy good trusted oil brands with the proper recommended characteristics and viscosity and it would fine.

replace engine mounting
use xW50 lub oil and above. But Your car will feel heavy.
use smaller exhaust diameter piping and smaller exhaust and retain the catcon.

Apart from insulating the noise, you can also use engine oils that can helps the engine run smoother, do some research on various engine oils and you should come across some. Usually if originally it is already noisy due to poor insulation from the factory, you'll just have to learn to live with it. Adding aftermarket insulation will help but you can't expect the engine noise to be on par with luxury cars.

oredi using total quartz 10w50 fully syn wor . . .

Then u cant really do much to the engine sound anymore . The only way is to insulate the whole car firewall and adding rubber to prevent wind noise from coming in. By this u will get better driving pleasure

Can anyone tell me exactly how engine oil reduces VIBRATION? Not noise?

both torco/liqui moly are very reputable companies and have their products certified/tested under many standards which includes but not limited to the American petroleum institute

http://www.shell.com.au/products-services/...diesel-hx5.html

how exactly? perhaps less friction, better film strength reduces/prevents engine parts knocking against each other and such force is then transferred towards your engine > engine mounting which are supposed to absorb them and if they are worn/bad condition then it gets transferred to you

Thats diesel engine. Where the internal combustion is more violent than petrol counterparts. High compression engine. So noise and vibration is expected. Worn or badly designed engine mounts can be the cause of vibration transferred to car body. But engine oil? There is another thing that will definitely reduce engine vibration. But it cost a lot of money and time. Drive train vibration is another story.

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Dec 9 2013, 09:50 AM

http://www.shell.com.au/products-services/...ltra/ultra.html
nah petrol.

Rebuilt the engine if the engine is already old?

use higher ron petrol, it gives your car the required combustion timing = less rough and less vibration to your car engine = reduction of sound..

by insulating your car does the trick...sport exhaust? that one is exhaust noise...not engine lor

Use better engine oil is bollocks. Really. The best method engine balancing. Last time got a 4AGE 20v with balance rod and pistons, the engine ran on 3 cylinder but cannot feel the harsh vibration not is it that obvious visually. But lost of power. Hows that for engine vibration reduction? If balance crank i think totally does not know the engine cyclinder no combustion. 6 cylinder inline engine even better at masking vibration.

I meant additional additives that are marketed to add into whatever your existing engine oil. I rather buy good oil only without adding any more additives on it. I don't trust mixing chemicals from one brand to another one as I won't know if it will go bad until it's too late already. If one prefer Torco or Liqui Moly, then just buy the engine oil and that should be good enough already, don't use say a Castrol then add more additives even from Torco or Liqui Moly, or whatever. If still want to use such additional additives, better use from the same brand. Btw I also heard of not so good review about Torco though.

How about this? Can it reduce engine noise?

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/712191

if they are bollocks people from the motorsport scene would just stick with shell/castrol/mobil/petronas mainstream oils.

but... that is not the case. they do help, and there are dynos around that proven that it does increases hp. or even videos recordings on engine using different x/y/z brands/models of engine oil.

that's also why people still buy engine oil such as motul's 300v even when the engine oil is priced at really retarded/insane pricing.

granted, this is all ASSUMING the engine didn't have fundamental engine problems like what you said in your post. my point is that when there are 2 same engines without any engine problems running on different oil there will be differences and some may be good on NVH while others may even make it worse (i know for a fact torco EO such as the SR-1 has really shit idle/low RPM noise)

good EO ALL have additives. it either comes pre-package with the EO or it is sold separately.

example would be liqui moly's semi synthetic MOS2. if you prefer other EO (and their additives/base stocks) but still want MOS2 nano ceramic particles in your engine, you can get MOS2 additive separately. same thing goes for torco's MPZ or even royal purple's synerlac.

that is a choice that the consumers can make and it's been proven via used oil analysis that most won't harm your engine while some *MAY* potentially harm as you mentioned. (and that's a assumption based on long term usage)

and yes there are negative reviews of torco (or any other reputable brands, really)
being a huge/reputable brand doesn't mean they are perfect. it could also be individual's preference, or even the car/engine characteristics in relation to the engine oil used; like x car prefers y engine oil.

personally i am trying out motul now and after that i'll go Jpn Eneos
EO that i've tested extensively would be LM (german) > Torco (USA) > Motul (french, in progress)

It does help. But very marginal. The gains does not out weight engine balancing. Also thin oils does not mask noise. Thick one does. But thick one does not allow fast movement. Thin one does. Whats gained is lost and the other way around. Its like stirring a cup of cream vs stirring a cup of water. You won't clang the cup louder in cream than in water.

Also motorsports people use money to balance engine. Which no average joe does. So the oil could not matter much. The super budget racer uses 20/50 oils. Which is crazy given that everyone says race cars should not use thick oils. Sure they loose power, but they gain reliability. But thats another matter together as race engines dun care about tuning vibrations so long they make power.

yes i do agree. however how marginal that also depends on the individual and/or even his car/engine. unless someone scientifically does a pre/post test with actual equipment to measure sound decibels there really isn't much we can say about it.

and no i'm not really referring to engine oil viscosity being able to mask noise. i'm merely saying that engine oil with good lubricating properties would reduce friction of moving parts and that may effectively reduce engine nvh.
personally i'm also an advocate on using thinner viscosity EO and there are EO that really does the job in reducing NVH.

yes, of course if you have the budget you would perform engine balancing too. but hey, xw50 EO aren't exactly "super budget racer", some examples would be:
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/sr-5.html xw60
http://www.motul.com/my/en/products/19?f%5...f%5Brange%5D=25 xw60

you go find out how much those EO cost first

I know all good oil already has additives in it that's why I don't buy additional additives, coz I don't fully trust if they won't make bad chemical reaction with the existing additives & oil. It doesn't matter if the additional additives is made by very popular brands like Torco or LM, I still won't use them, coz I'm not willing to risk it. If I want to use additives form LM, then I might as well buy LM oil.

Anyway previously had used Repsol, Total, Shell, Petronas, & Castrol, now I'm only using good ol' Mobil 1 FS. Next will also try Mitsubishi Eneos oil since I've bought already on sale. Not really into expensive oil like the ones you've tried.

consider myself unlucky for having a taste in boutique brands la... and information from the internet does make it worse when UOA info/data are widely available from forums such as bobistheoilguy.com lol
i've never had good experiences with mainstream brands although admittedly i've yet to try out their top of the line full synthetics. but here's the thing: their top of the line FS cost almost the same, if not even more expensive than boutique brands. and when even said boutique brands are API certified, i don't see a risk in them while yet they are proven to be able to have much better price vs performance ratio.

i suppose one of the reason is that they do have to work harder in the sense that most people will never know of the existence of such EO. talk to any uncle aunty they'll tell you something from tesco sales or what you can buy off petrol stations.
EO from those companies get EASY sale while boutique brands... not so much.

btw i'm going for eneos sustina, basically eneos' top of the line. it is retailing in msia officially for 350-400+ per 4 liters. however if you get it from some LYN autogarage seller, which most likely is getting his stock from singapore since he is JB based, it's only about 5x/liter, even cheaper from the bigger boutique brands rofl. (eg: torco goes for 6x/liter for their SR1)

Well you can consider me one of those uncles buying from Tesco during promotions. It becomes much cheaper and very worth it IMHO. If you buy Mobil 1 FS for rm140/4ltr during the promo, and use it for 10k kms, it actually becomes even cheaper per km than using semi-synth at rm80-90 that usually need to change at 5k kms. To me those are good enough already, my cars still running nice and the metals inside still look very clean, hence I don't feel the need to buy such expensive ones.

hehe that's EXACTLY why i went with full synthetics and never look back:
i just go with extended OCI while changing oil filters at manufacturer's recommendations.

i end up going 13-16k km++ without any noticeable degradation except minor ones such as torco EO's high rev characteristics diminished at around 13-14k km mark.

overall i ended up paying less than semi synthetics that can barely survive over 6k km even for the reputable/boutique brands.

Try Torco RCL. but not long term. about RM30 for 4 petrol tank fill up. Engine smooth and quiet. I have tried REVO also good result.

But the thing is...authentic or not?

I think it's not so much authentic. I believe they are real.

I'm holding back more because the one sold is 15W50 ! Your engine will slow down to a halt.

Hi guys, may i know how to reduce the "Noise" from the Belt alternator?

Is there anything i can apply on the belt or tighten it?

that noise is usually due to slippage or pulley bearing worn.

either tighten or replace bearing

what. the hell. is this.....

I'm pretty sure it's original. I don't think Tesco/Carrefour/AEON will dare to play2 selling fake stuff. I've used many times already, all good and no complains. Many in ZTH forum also have done the same. When normal price actually they're selling the same like other places, just sometimes they do promo to clear older stocks but still good nonetheless.