Thats the thing. The design is similar but not the same, maybe the pcb is thinner and the solder pad only on one side so even if the qc is very good, the product won't be as good as the Filco.

Check out the recommended brands on the first page of the thread. There are tkl models there.
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3055950
And theres the ducky tkl for RM250 at Cyntrix but they have to order.

When I asked it was the ducky zero tkl. I think I first saw it on the Cyntrix facebook page (which said RM250 any switch colour)
but I can't find it now. They said they couldn't guarantee the price until it ships, so I didn't bother and looked up China brand keyboards.

There is are useful tips on the first page of this thread.
Google mechanical keyboard faq and read through the results on the first page.
Read through those and you will have enough background on mkd.

No. Its the complete opposite.
People who don't need to type much everyday or type slowly and poorly do not need a mechanical keyboard. Any RM20 cheap rubber dome will do since they type so slow anyway. Don't waste money on mkb if you fall into that category.

People who use it for work like me find cheap rubber domes need more finger pressure because of the need to constantly bottom out. The biggest defect of rubber dome is the jiggly feel which causes mistakes while typing semi fast or fast. Then rubber domes wear down faster and the feel changes and keys bind even though it still works because the stabilization is poor (or missing). There are good rubber domes in the past like the Dell quietkey but its discontinued and scissor switched keyboard which are hard to find so the only choice for serious typists are mkb.

Again, if you don't type much, stick to cheap rubber domes since you'll never wear it out anyway.

I don't see why I was wrong since you yourself agree that a person who doesn't type that much can't tell the difference. It takes some training to type faster on a mkb to take advantage of the shorter travel. For a person who types slowly and doesn't need or want to improve their typing speed a rubber dome will be just as good. I agree that some of those people will just upgrade to a mkb just because it is 'expensive'.

Rubber dome doesn't always have to be horrible. There used to be good rubber domes like some old Dells or Keytronic which are very good and relatively cheap. Keytronic is still selling on amazon and from their website for USD18-30 before shipping. Or gaming rubber domes like the CM devastator or the K3/K7 which are quite alright and the keys don't feel sticky to me when pressed off centre.

So no, I don't feel that cherry mkb are that much superior to good rubber domes or scissor switched for people who don't type alot or for poor typists.

Is there a local source for costar stabilizer clips/wires/inserts?
Or how can I get it from taobao- the Chinese characters for costar clips/wires/inserts.

I already said in my post that I need the Chinese characters for the parts I need.

Who is hammer?

Edit-
Thanks (机械键盘 平衡杠) I got it.

Edit-
Blame you? I wasn't blaming you for anything and I did mention it clearly and you need your cup of coffee this morning. Thanks anyway.

This post has been edited by imbibug: Dec 24 2013, 09:52 AM

Does your QFR work in bios? There is a problem with usb keyboards in nkro mode getting recognized before windows starts up because nkro needs a windows driver to work properly. You could try using the ps/2 adapter. But the best way would just be to change the mode to 6kro.

I asked a chinese speaker and he said it was a slang word for those who have money but are uncultured. So they spend their money gold plating objects and making them uglier at the end.

I've got a problem with keycool ABS keycaps. It look like the legends are abit small for me (it is quite abit less than 1/4 of the keycap size) and to make things worse, the infill is fading/coming off abit.

Do the keycool PBT/POM replacement keycaps share the same font and size as the ABS version? From what I can see from the pictures, all 3 share the same font for the legends. Are the PBT/POM versions also laser infilled?

I prefer white on black keycaps (well actually maybe gray is ok after having a look at the Ducky dyesub grey). And that set still has smallish legends.
The legends on the imsto's look great but I can't justify the price even they came in black keycaps.

Are the legends on the keycool black poms the same size/font as the ones on the abs version?

Well for me I'd rather spend the difference to get a filco in the first place.

I was surprised to see the keycool legend coming off so fast, I can see faint traces of the black background of the 'A' key already. Its a shame for an otherwise pretty well made keyboard.

Not all 'laser printing' is bad. Etched is quite durable, it quite good actually. Engraved infill may have problems but I think there is some sort of coating to protect it in better implementations.

This is not a question about having the best doubleshot keycaps for RM300 but something that is at least usable like good pad printing instead of poor quality infill that fades and comes off in a week.

I'll post tomorrow.

All the switches are good. Only you can decide which switch is better. Try them out.
Brown are generally preferred because blues have trouble with double taps and quick tapping because the reset point is furthur away from the actuation point compared to other switches and blacks are too heavy for many. But some people can game with blues, so get what is best for you.

I didn't get the pbt or pom version. I got the 'team edition' with abs keycaps. Its the same thing with the detachable cable, ps/2 adapter, extra costar plastic inserts without the keypuller and the coloured keycaps. And it comes in a brown box.

Because of the lighting the pic doesn't look exactly like it does irl. q/z/x are also starting to rub off but they are in better shape than the others. And I find the legends to small for my liking.