Firstly you will need 5 sections long of a connector block.
Then you will need a test pen and a phone with camera.
And masking tape + marker pen.

Before you start, test the test pen by poking it into a live terminal at a socket just to see it is working (when wire is hot) and not faulty.
TURN OFF THE WHOLE DB BOX. NEVER WORK HOT. It is too easy to die from 230V.
Open up ding dong bell cover.
Test all wires/contacts (which are connected) with the test pen again to ensure that nothing is hot.

Label the wires ABCDE or 12345 with masking tape and marker pen. It is a headache to retest everything once messed up.
Take a few meaningful pictures (the as-installed wires and wire labels relative to the ding dong bell) before you open up any screws.
Email those pictures to yourself for safekeeping.

The conblock may come in strip of 12 so count how many and cut it off accordingly.
Now open up wires one by one and screw them into the conblock, one wire per section.

Leave the tape labels on the wires for easier reinstallation.
For added safety, wrap up the conblock in insulation tape, very cheap only, to prevent against accidental touching (regardless by humans or lizards) or water ingress (in case ceiling leak) as some of those wires are operating on 230V.

You may now dispose the old ding dong bell.
After safely terminating the wires into the conblock and mummifying the conblock, it is now safe to turn on your DB box.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 9 2021, 11:15 PM

Where does this blue wire come from?

Noted on test lead as blue wire.

Colour mismatched cables will be rather tricky to test for continuity with power running. I worry that one of the gate post wires are actually 230V live.

If you have a long enough spare wire and a multimeter can try to check 1 by 1 wire (turn off the whole DB box) from the gate to the doorbell point inside (separate them out using a spare connector block) for continuity. It may have been mixed up or they are using half of yellow outdoor and half of black indoor. Or worse, hooked up the gate post wires into DB box. Macam macam can happen.

By right it is 5 wires at doorbell.
3 from MCB box to doorbell. 230V.
2 from gate to doorbell as unpowered (for low voltage) as dingdong button trigger.

I'd test the gate post wires to see if they light up a test pen.

many funny² things can and have happened in my experience.
see WRT DEVELOPER WIRING in https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=100869300

Not all banglas know what they're doing.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 9 2021, 11:17 PM

Major screw up if the gate switch actually controls the 230V supply to the wall point. Things in the wet like outdoor switches should never run on 230V high voltage as it is not waterproof rated for industrial use (IP67+). 230V AC kill people very easily. It just takes 0.05A (very little current), at 230V to be RIP.

That's why ur doorbell is running on safe low voltage 8V to outside gate post button. Like smarttag battery (9V DC).

However some uninformed bangla seem to have decided to wire the outdoor gate post to run on live 230V AC

If the wall point 230V L (yellow) is always hot regardless whether the doorbell switch is pressed then this is normal.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 9 2021, 11:42 PM

I read 1st page of this thread. This is the type that can electrocute friends coming eh?

the power goes in the top two terminals as per Fig 2 and the switch wires go in the middle two terminals.


identification of the switch wire colours as a rough guide can be done by turning off whole DB box and opening the doorbell switch.

use a test pen to figure out which is the live wire for the power side.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jul 7 2021, 02:44 AM