Dares, I thought also running NGV

Ericmaxman, u did already?

Mahihi, need to inform you about the brake hose length. If you follow IMP hose length. If fit on lowered car the hose section from the caliper to the absorber mount when the steering is turned will cause the hose to rub against the hose bracket on the car body one. I think need to shorten the hose length more. I will need to measure the stock hose length and let u know.

I notice this after I put the car back on the road ad drive when the clear casing get tear it will rub the ss hose body and will make sound. In long run, the hose might bocor that's why yesterday I spend some time to modify the hose length ratio between the caliper to the absorber mount and to the chassis body mount. Now solve the rubbing problem.

Ericmaxman. Could be a sticky caliper or the metal shim on the brake pad didn't put back

Ericmaxman. Could be a sticky caliper or the metal shim on the brake pad didn't put back

Mahihi. Stock hose length 38cm only

Mahihi, yes front only rear no problem. But the gosok problem can be solved if hose length no reduce just need to change the length between caliper to absorber mount and from absorber mount to chassis mount.

Eric you can try open the wheel and check see got the backing plate on the pads

Nice headlights....sure add 25kw horse power....

For me just no give F to the warranty. For us that know we not going to keep the car stock we are prepare for it. If problem comes than fix it DIY style. Like my car I started modded it the 2nd month of owning it so most of the stock part is only use like 5-10k km only.

For those that worry about warranty matters just stick to stock car for 1 year then only mod.

I remember when I was driving Atos and having ECU problem I was told to go to HQ in Glenmarie. My Atos was not stock that time. Stroke the engine from 1 liter to 1.1 then put in RSM, S-afc, Defi meters when I go to Glenmarie to claim warranty on the ecu they didn't void it. They change for me a new ecu and update it plus the head tech even go the extra to help me set back my RSM and S-afc. Not a single cent charge he even share with me on the S-afc setting to help gain more power from the engine. Found out he drives a DC2 also

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 27 2013, 09:58 PM

When I corner or go very fast over some slope my car don't roll is the things inside my car fly side to side (that's why my car inside I no keep any stuff only a payung actually want to take out that payung also but my wife sure nag....when go over slope my pasengers all fly up also.....

BTW, over the weekend, I did this as recommended by V12 and woof woof.....but my hose OD is 11mm ID 6mm I didn't put any lubrication when I slip the hose in....very difficult and painful to my hands and fingers....and need a lot of elbow power.....I wrap 1.5 rounds on the mounts....I know mine is MT don't have so much jerking compare to CVT but I put this also to reduce engine vibration on idle and the engine from moving too much during engine braking or hard acceleration. MY steering feels less vibration after put this and felt more solid....I wanted to do the other 2 mounts but hose not enough jor....since I jack the car up to mod the SS brake hose....Just to add, I found out that my car is very difficult to jack up now after using adjustable and with chassis bars...Now when I jack up the front using the OEM factory jack my whole left or right side will get lifted up both front and rear tire also up in the air....bugger...jack until my hand lembik....I think I need to go buy a good 2 ton jack....last time I borrow that one for installing adjustable already return to shop owner.....

Federal 595RSR...good stuff sticks like a cicak...threadwear 140

then use Ecopia or NCT5 or CC5 or Sime...

V12, no senget la....it was like that when I got the car...I got ask the SA why like this he say is built like this.... I also speechless.....

Err....just like how V12 do it....my difference with him only how I loop the hose only still same method doing it. Can refer to V12

Actually I found that BLM engine mount gap much smaller than FLX. Kenji show me he's very small gap only...FLX mia...Niama macam the pacific rim kajuu under sea crack....

Mine cannot rotate at all. When I install the hose it was really damn difficult as I not just wrap around the mount. I use a logo force to force the hose to go deeper into the mounting and keep pulling and holding so that there's totally 0 free play on the mounts. That's 1 of the reason why I do the mount until my belakang also sakit.

Just park beside a stock FLX find out my car not so low after all about the same height as stock. Maybe little bit lower

the compressor oil need to change when service. The oil is to lubricate the compressor inner bearings and the compressor itself.

kenjilew you need this.....
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=571860...&type=2&theater

Quazacolt Watch his line.....good reference..

There's a piece of rubber items which you can't see in the pic because it is obstructed by the hose I put on.


Next, I park my standard saga beside you....

Actually the technology of lubricants improved from time to time including the life span of the oil itself. There's some reason why oil company will want to improve the life span of the oil. Car manufacturers work hand in hand with these oil company.

1. Increase OCI = reduce the amount of OCI needed. = reduced SC fill with cars waiting for OC = reduce wate pollutant....Amount of cars on the road is increasing faster than SC the longer the customer waits the more unhappy they are. Less oil change means less oil pollutants to the environment.

2. Oil company can hike up the price for the improved oil since it delivers longer lifespan customer will find it more economical. Less oil change = less labour paid as frequent visits to SC has reduce also less time wasted on waiting.

3. Reduce man power at SC, less workers are needed to cater to OC as SC won't be flock with tons of cars (but currently still is) Too much workers is also a burden to the service center as they need to pay salary also.

Just my 2 kupang.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 29 2013, 11:24 AM

Niama....Hahahahaha



Actually 1st gen Vios SI can be 10K. Engine wise nothing change only mapping change. That time 5K service is customer all using engine oil which are not full sync ones (standard procedure not to use full sync if customer no special request) Full sync from Toyota comes in tin of 4L only for normal ones we don't use tin Toyota has a system where each technician is given a 4 digit pin code to enter into a what we call automated lub oil system. These are 15w-50 oil, they comes from oil tanker and fill into a big tank.

What we do is after drain the oil and change the oil filter when we want to fill in new oil we go to the ALOS keypad keep in 4 digit pin and the lub oil quantity say 3.2L then pull the over hanging hose to the bay we are working then fill in the engine oil into the engine and there's a digital counter that will keep track of how much oil is going in and stop at the quantity we set earlier so there's no overfill and no stealing of oil as each JSF has already indicated the required engine oil amount so customer is charge per liter on it.

For Camry and above cars all compulsory using Full sync including CBUs. All others on customer request.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 29 2013, 12:44 PM