You can pick the lines, but not the entry point/exit point due to difference in vehicle transmission nature/geometry/speed/weight(and ofcourse your driving skill). The line is more or less the same, but if u entry according to that video, you'll lose your head(甩头) instead of slide(甩尾). Mind you your tyre is currently overkill for your car, unless you can hit the same speed like the RS200 during the corner, otherwise you'll be eating grass EVERY corners. I'd personally recommend you watch this, more down to earth(instead of trying to shadow an RS200 track car)



This is not a perfect drive for the Wajunk, but his line is pretty accurate, consider the tyre he's using. Some point of improvement may be made, I list it below.

0:06 Heel & Toe too early, can further delay by late braking. Wajunk toto reponse is good enough to catch up with engine brakes. Wasted atleast 0.5seconds

0:08 is supposed to be the braking point, heel & toe downshift from 5th to 4th, then to 3rd and grind in the APEX whilst releasing the brake pedal

0:11 crappy tyre still in skating mode, understeer kao kao. Supposedly let loose/maintain gas pedal action to gain more traction before WOT. But driver choosen to sprint. Open wide kao kao. Lose another miliseconds.

0:13 immediately after grand mother panty open wide understeer, all the way until 0:33 are waste of time trying to cut back from right side to left side. If 0:11 already reduced understeer, no need to cut back in all the way from right to left. Imagine if fast car came from behind, you'll be stuck at the middle of the track.

0:35 braking point just nice. But notice the wheel traction still pulling to the LEFT. The car momentum still pushing outward as driver trying to recover from time loss at 0:13~0:33. Chain of disaster inherited all the way from 0:11 When you go OUT, heel & toe turn IN = DRIFT So, understeer all the way until 0:46. Underpants also senget ady. tsk tsk tsk. But the driver got the balls to continue to push, so you can hear tyre screeching sound. So, overall nothing can be done la. The driver handle the understeer well. If given me under the same situation, I prolly push too hard and donuted ady before hitting the right apex.

1:16 ~ 1:24 is a waste of time in my opinion. I don't hold the steering wheel, I don't know how far the tyre can go. But from the line in the video, the wajunk can achieve higher speed/lower time loss by remaining on the left side of the track.

1:30 cut in apex too early. Pay attention to the left side of the track, all those tyre marks are pros trying to cut in from outside!

1:37 open wide to give way. Nothing better can be done already.

1:41 EG2(or 6 not sure) too early braking. Consider the car light weight. Sohigh almost go eat grass at the apex.
1:42 Wajunk got distracted by the EG, also too early brake.

1:47 onwards, Wajunk copycat EG did marvelous job. Almost maxxed out the potential of a Wajunk can do. Nothing much input from my side, I would have done the same mistake/advantage the driver did in the video after this point of time. Consider a 贱兔 kakajiaojiao, nothing much can be done at those speed lines being hogged.

2:40 tyre already very tired. It's a high speed hairpin, driver punch 3rd gear to gain torque, but tire giving up. I think that is already the best that point of time can do. If tire allowed, it's better to push further into the apex. But again, I don't hold the steering wheel, I could be wrong that point of time, or spun out again

It's just my idiotic opinion. I don't hold the steering wheel, I don't know the road feedback. It could be different story when I'm driving. But there's some clear indication of choosing which side of the track is wiser at point of time. It's about strategy, not only apex. At times apex is important, at times we need to open wide. I'm not affiliate tot he Wajunk, neither I want a challenge. I just voice my point of view jek. Could be all wrong if Keichi Tsuchiya came and mark my score sheet

Don't blame the car, coz every car has it's characteristics. Don't blame yourself, we all learn from experience. You have no idea how many donut I've made(even until recently still donut with my tall GaGa, thought it's gonna tip over, scares the shit out of me).

On an automatic transmission car, that alone is a big difference if you wanted to compare tagging racing line. How do I drive properly in an automatic car? Take a look at the video below. The old man I told u before, who always drive like a moron, end up will blame the car or crap tyres, old man was on the F360 F1 with AMT. Please do take not on the  old man white F360 F1 after he pass both SMG and GTA then spun out. That is exactly what will happen when trying hard to hog on a usual racing line with unfamiliar car/tyres/transmission type/geometry/layout. The unfair point is, the whole video has been totally focusing on the automatic transmissions alone. Pay attention to how the GTA make mistakes went open wide. After the GTA understeer kao kao, it leaves a trail of bad mojo for the SMG So the SMG spun out follow by then. Even professional will fall for that, not to mention amateurs like you and me.

Pay alot more attention to the GTA steering work. Make a comparison to the Wajunk video, compare with their steering work. Now you'll redefine, tyre limit are still alot more. The only worries are always like I said previously, think I'll spin out but the pros didn't. Enjoy the video.

No need 2 ton jack la....the stock jack will do. I guide you through the things you need.

1. 13mm or 14mm socket spanar or ring spanar (Don't use open end as it will slip and damage the nut)
2. flat head screw driver (standby as you will find use for it, usually to pry open the caliper)
3. Anti squeal grease
4. Cleaner (you will need to be cleaning before you apply any grease to the caliper and pads.
5. A small C clamp use to push the piston back in case you can't refit the caliper as the piston might be in the way. (before use the c-clamp to push the piston back open the brake fluid cover.)
6. hand glove for safety and less dirty hand.

After you open your rims, everything should be very easy and self explanatory. IF got problem just PM me.

Since your backing plate as told by David is rusted, just go to spare parts shop and buy 2 new ones for both calipers and replaced them since you are opening up the caliper anyway. Do it smart and correct so you only do it once and worry free after that.