anyone interested in participating this Guerilla Photography Exhibition in Subang Empire Shopping Gallery?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/24822764529...52361131547041/
The Official Nikon Discussion Thread Ver.22, NEW RUMORE Nikon DF!
The Official Nikon Discussion Thread Ver.22, NEW RUMORE Nikon DF!
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Oct 5 2013, 11:29 AM
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#1
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5,542 posts Joined: Dec 2006 |
anyone interested in participating this Guerilla Photography Exhibition in Subang Empire Shopping Gallery?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/24822764529...52361131547041/ |
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Oct 7 2013, 11:16 AM
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#2
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QUOTE(cplow1 @ Oct 7 2013, 11:03 AM) Guys, would like to ask if you guys ever come across dust in the viewfinder because nikon quote me RM200 for the viewfinder cleaning and RM60 for sensor cleaning. viewfinder no need to care since it doesn't affect image quality and it is a lot of work like align the prism for viewfinder and etcCan i get any advice from those sifu who encountered this problem? thanks |
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Oct 7 2013, 11:19 AM
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#3
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sometime the dust is not inside the viewfinder itself but the mirror that reflect light to the viewfinder, try to brush it off at the mirror see how it goes
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Oct 15 2013, 10:30 PM
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#4
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QUOTE(exquisite_markas @ Oct 15 2013, 09:43 PM) that body doesn't have much button compare to D7000, but there are a lot you can do if you make use of the swivel LCD screen anyway.....gonna ask the sifus here a question, what should i take note of when shooting fashion portraiture? should i focus more on full body and make sure DOF is enough to cover the outfit? |
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Oct 15 2013, 11:04 PM
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#5
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QUOTE(exquisite_markas @ Oct 15 2013, 11:01 PM) Oh you are going for events then it is a different thing. I am using it for personal satisfaction. so far there isn't any major issue beside dust and oil issue in D600 units Yup, electronic gadgets nowadays are really flimsy. Hope not true for Nikon DSLR. my use my d5100 to shoot under rain and bumping here and there during event and still working fine |
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Oct 15 2013, 11:37 PM
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#6
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QUOTE(exquisite_markas @ Oct 15 2013, 11:10 PM) DSLR is not water resistance, some are weather sealedeven though your DSLR is not weather sealed you can still shoot under the rain but not heavy rain la, and of course to cover the viewfinder, buttons and mount parts when you are not shooting so the water wont sip inside to the internal parts and damage the camera QUOTE(s7ran9er @ Oct 15 2013, 11:22 PM) I just bath my 2x D7000s this morning, well light rain that is. salt can rust metal/iron very fast best to clean the body after exposed to salt water1x D7000 is in good condition, 1x D7000 has been exposed to salt water, the lens mount are covered with rust, as well as all the screws. Both are not mine. QUOTE(exquisite_markas @ Oct 15 2013, 11:27 PM) Eww... Rust will corrode the materials nearby dude. Be careful. i use wet cloth to clean the body, the lens front and back element just use lens pen, easy and no messyBy the way, it is safe to clean the exterior of a DSLR or a lens with washing alcohol? Since it is a universal solvent. |
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Oct 18 2013, 11:30 AM
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#7
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QUOTE(copperwire93 @ Oct 18 2013, 10:29 AM) Wow, seems need a lot of efforts, must've a lot of tries and errors for me then. having halo effect in HDR is like an instant kill to your pictures, proper HDR pictures shouldn't have halo Tested Tamron 10-24 today, so far it is just okay. A lot of reviews say that the edges are softer compared to Sigma and Tokina. I don't have those two but from what my eyes see, it's just okay. Some say the focus is too slow, it surely trying to focus but not that slow. Perhaps it's just right for me, since my Nikkor 35mm also have this focus speed rate when doing landscape. Also, first time testing out HDR. Surely it looks funny and cacat compared to your guys' HDR photos. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « For those who haven't try HDR like me previously and want to try this out. I follow this Serge Remelli guide by using both Lightroom and Photoshop. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « EDIT: Hah! Forgot the bbcode for youtube. Thanks Agito666 actually it can be done with just 1 RAW file instead of exposure stacking ![]() |
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Oct 18 2013, 12:48 PM
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#8
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QUOTE(copperwire93 @ Oct 18 2013, 12:27 PM) Halo effect is the white glow of the subject which prominent on top of another layer right? How'd you reduce this effect? Some say use "smoothing" slider, but I don't think it's in Lightroom or Pshop, probably Photomatix. I would like to learn bracketing and stacking multiple exposure first before into single raw hdr. if you use lightroom only then you have to mask it very careful and slow with your brush tool and also play with other sliders tooHere's another tryout, I noticed there's halo effect of the hill, but still can't figure it out to reduce it. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « in photoshop there is a auto mask feature that can easy select the hill only, leaving the sky untouch then you can do your adjustment on the hill only and not affect the sky for other software i dont know la, i use lightroom to do it only |
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Oct 18 2013, 06:52 PM
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#9
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QUOTE(exquisite_markas @ Oct 18 2013, 06:32 PM) If you are using image stacking to create an HDR image, you will need at least 3 images of different exposure values (one being under-exposed, one normal, and one over-exposed). This can be achieved by setting your camera to shoot three continuous shots using exposure bracketing. if single RAW file, you can just straight away use selective editing brush to burn & dodge each part of the image, no need to split to multiple image fileBesides doing that, you can use one RAW file, open it in any photo-editing software, and create three (or more) images by changing its exposure value, manually. Then you can use those images and create an HDR image. The reason why you wanna use a RAW file to create images with different exposure is that you don't want your image of different exposures to lose details when you bring up or down its exposure. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « but it can only be done if the camera sensor is capable to capture the dynamic range, and Nikon DSLR is good in that |
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Oct 18 2013, 07:12 PM
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#10
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Oct 18 2013, 08:21 PM
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#11
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Oct 21 2013, 10:25 PM
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#12
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QUOTE(shinjun @ Oct 20 2013, 11:34 PM) Guys, I'm planning to get an UWA for my D90. Was thinking about Tokina 116. Any input on that? I've been eyeing for pretty long. Aside from Tokina, please provide some feedback on Nikkon's 12-24mm as well. Thanks. QUOTE(jepertine90 @ Oct 21 2013, 09:38 AM) A question... I borrowed my friend 35mm f1.8g for ytd event shoot. I notice that if I crank up to f1.8 is more hard to focus on to the eyes than I use f2.2.. how come? G lens will always have the widest open aperture when it is mounted, the F number that you see in your LCD is applied when you click the shutter buttonI want that smooth feel on f.18 but is just so hard to focus.. any way to fix this?? like the focus spot, settings, etc.. using D3200 + nikor 35mm f.18g so focus at 1.8 and 2.2 makes no different, since you're in event, i assume it is indoor, there are limitation on the lens AF, if not enough light it wont be able to focus well, sometime even in ballroom also will have trouble focusing and you cant focus and recompose with f1.8, you have to compose then focus and when you focus cannot focus on single color subject, let's say your AF points is at the person's cheek then the lens might have trouble focusing, try focus between eyelid and eye ball, that way you have the color for the lens to focus |
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Oct 23 2013, 04:29 PM
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#13
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QUOTE(seather @ Oct 23 2013, 02:05 PM) i usually shoot 1~2 stops below the max aperture as a general rule.. to get max sharpness... but i find that widest aperture for G lens is quite sharp already, loving the smoothness and details of prime lens at widest aperture a non moving subject n a stable tripod helps too... QUOTE(jepertine90 @ Oct 23 2013, 03:11 PM) still can't figure out how to calculate the 1,2,3 stops thingy.. haha 1 stop means 3 clicks of the camera dial, if you use manual mode, each time you turn the dial by 1 click the exposure bias will be overexpose or underexpose for 0.3But I sure know f2.2 provide good sharpness and some bokeh.. D3200, yup my friend demo his canon 60D with this feature, and I was wondering can nikon do that? and it can, but not that great as compared to canon's.. just a nifty function, most I use the viewfinder anyway~ |
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Oct 24 2013, 11:30 AM
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#14
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Oct 24 2013, 01:01 PM
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Oct 24 2013, 04:40 PM
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#16
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QUOTE(jepertine90 @ Oct 24 2013, 01:44 PM) haha thanks. cosplay itself is not dangerous but quite beneficial, only the people around everyone of us that have a negative perspective on cosplay and ACG is dangerous, you dont see japan being a dangerous country right? and cosplay always a danger with those sexy costume, make up and super not safe protection. combined with the Otakus, who usually watch anime and h**tai every single day(at least some of them), lust and imagination tend to lead the wrong path. Especially the audience in Malaysia cosplay are mostly between 15-23 ish whose mind are still immature and lack of rational and self control. With those recent news, cosplay = p**n = dangerous hobby. Off topic here haha! This post has been edited by amduser: Oct 26 2013, 08:06 AM |
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Oct 25 2013, 05:49 PM
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#17
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Oct 25 2013, 07:16 PM
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#18
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QUOTE(copperwire93 @ Oct 25 2013, 06:59 PM) Thanks! Although, I think only the first one works, the others are like quick snapshot since I wanna hurry. Sun moves up quickly. you already got 24mm to 50mm range? those range are quite important tooI'll probably will sell of my Sigma 18-200mm since there's not much of a use now that I have UWA. Anyone tried Tamron 90mm macro? Might trade in this sigma for the tamron. |
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Nov 5 2013, 12:05 PM
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#19
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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Nov 5 2013, 11:58 AM) that is a thing, i duno read those voltage and amps.... for phone and tablet there's no such thing, even though your phone USB port can only take 1A charging power max, but you plug in to a 2.1A powerbank or outlet, it will only take in 1A of power even i last time read ipad charger charge iphone also cannot supposedly, it will accelerate battery spoil faster maybe i open new thread for that question see who own grey set and charge see got problem or not for your d70s, it is recommended to use back the charger when you bought your dslr, cable can change, use universal adapter also no problem, make sure your charger can take in 110 to 240v of power |
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Nov 8 2013, 11:27 AM
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#20
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QUOTE(freestyler87 @ Nov 8 2013, 09:29 AM) yoz , looking nikon group in facebook with active outing for photoshoot.. anyone? the group i join all canon kaki... damn hate the group im in now... all ask me jump ship to canon... sien... why cannot respect me to use nikon? to generalize all the fans boys: i found out alot of sony and canon kaki like to ask other brand jump ship... canon = gear head, we are the white knight, the noble, our cannon is the biggest and it is white so it doesn't absorb heat like the black does thus it prevent overheat of the lens sony DSLR (not so applicable for NEX user) = my camera has this this this and that features that other camera dont have, 12 fps jpg panorama stitching which is faster than D4 shutter speed, and i got the translucent shutter not to mention that our flash can bend left and right unlike C and N. Sony also made camera sensor for nikon so our sensor will definitely be better nikon = judge it yourself QUOTE(coolkwc @ Nov 8 2013, 10:23 AM) Thanks bro. welcome welcome....I noticed that at ISO 1600 the noise is quite noticeable. I will try to capture tonight and post here. May i know what's the outcome different for condition below? Given that ISO setting and environment is fix: 1. Using large aperture. 2. Using small aperture. Is it just the shutter speed different only? Or does it affect picture quality too? no point learning so much on the paper without going out and shoot, so the most important is still "take your gear out and start shooting" but of course you have to learn from everyone and apply the concept/skills/ideas to get what you want the aperture control how much light is allowed to pass through the lens for as long as the shutter is open, wider/bigger aperture (low F value) create blur (bokeh) to area that is not in focus, while smaller aperture (higher F value) make depth of field (the focus area) is larger, thus more area in focus and less blur area, but you are letting less light through your lens that's why you need slower shutter and higher ISO to proper exposure QUOTE(Everdying @ Nov 8 2013, 10:56 AM) somehow we prefer to be active in LYN instead |
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