QUOTE(stan001 @ Apr 5 2011, 10:14 PM)
It's perhaps a kind of MKS PS(Polystyrene capacitor?)..., it claims that the capacitor was 0.1uF 50V? By the way, did I make a wrong purchase?This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 6 2011, 12:20 AM
PC Audio Altec Lansing Fans Club (approaching 90 members), Sound Leadership For The Digital Age
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Apr 6 2011, 12:17 AM
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#21
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QUOTE(stan001 @ Apr 5 2011, 10:14 PM) It's perhaps a kind of MKS PS(Polystyrene capacitor?)..., it claims that the capacitor was 0.1uF 50V? By the way, did I make a wrong purchase?This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 6 2011, 12:20 AM |
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Apr 6 2011, 12:53 AM
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#22
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QUOTE(Cosef @ Apr 6 2011, 12:41 AM) 0.1H is indicating inductance, it should be an inductor there, H is henry, uf is microfarad which is unit for capacitance. So, I'd made a wrong purchase? The original 0.1uf 50v couldn't be replaced with this one?This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 6 2011, 01:05 AM |
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Apr 7 2011, 12:41 PM
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#23
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The 1st round of replacement of capacitors:
10000uF 25V No problem The 2nd round 2200uF 16V x2 No problem The 3rd round 220uf 16v x1 No problem The 4th round 100uf 16v x3 47uf 16v x1 10uf 16v x1 No problem The 5th round 4.7uf 25v x4 2.2uf 50v x13 1uF 50v x3 0.47uf 50v x5 Big problem: very LOUD & LONG noisy "Dee" sound coming out from the subwoofer! I turned it off immediately(at power socket since the speaker's power LED doesn't even light on?), tried it again several times, same! I'd also checked with my eyes the soldering points, they seem(not sure) okay. What will probably be the problems? Thanks in advance! ![]() ![]() This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 7 2011, 12:56 PM |
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Apr 13 2011, 09:47 PM
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#24
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Does anybody know the codes printed on the PCB of the below capacitors for ACS 45.1? I wanted to reconfirm whether they were being soldered on the correct locations? Thanks in advance!
4.7uF >>> C16, C24, C33, C34 1uF >>> C37, C43, C51 0.47uF >>> C25, C27, C35, C40, C50 This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 14 2011, 04:02 AM |
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Apr 20 2011, 01:09 AM
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#25
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4.7uf 25v x4
2.2uf 50v x13 1uF 50v x3 0.47uf 50v x5 The above capacitors had been replaced with the original ones. However, there's a loud "hoo" sound coming from the satellite speakers when connecting to power! 1. Is it caused by bad soldering? 2. Is it something wrong with other previously changed capacitors like 10000uF, 2200uF, 220uF, 100uF, 47uF, 10uF, etc.? 3. Is it something wrong with some others IC parts other than the capacitors? And I do notice there's a minor pop sound coming out from the satellite speakers at the moment when I 'd connected them to the speakers' connectors EVEN IT'S POWER CUT? A leakage? Where's it coming from? Would it be a hint on how to deal with the problem? Thanks in advance! This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 20 2011, 04:39 PM |
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Apr 20 2011, 04:26 PM
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#26
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QUOTE(beggarmaster2000 @ Apr 20 2011, 03:00 PM) don't worry, you solder well =) 1. It sounds like ship horn..."hooo"!is the hoo sounds like radio hiss? hiss are from the old caps since they are of old age... pop after powercut means your 10000uf powerfilter is working good and stores power even after off, only that the caps in signal path are old and didnot block pop sound most importantly, is it still works even with hiss and pop? if it still works, time to buy panasonic capacitor replacements! cheap and good! and go get your refund + damages claim from your capacitor vendor 2. I cut off the power immediately when it's sreaming, dare not connect it to any sound sources since I'm afraid of its burning up if it's lasting long! So, I would say it's not functioning properly because it's quite impossible to test with any sound sources under such circumstances! This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 20 2011, 04:38 PM |
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Apr 20 2011, 09:03 PM
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#27
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QUOTE(beggarmaster2000 @ Apr 20 2011, 06:19 PM) horn sound means short circuit... Though it's too technical for me to work on it, I'll go studying it. Thanks!something (most probably opamp/volume control fry) test the main amp if still works use the TDA7370B datasheet to bypass opamps and volume control trace to the 'input' of the TDA7370B amp chip. trace and remove the capacitor going into it... leg 4 and 5 for left/right and leg 11 and 12 for sub.... got light nao? on and see still got horn sound if got means ur acs45.1 bye bye you can also plug input directly to leg 4,5 and 11,12 to test got sound come out ALSO, you can skip all this and buy another acs45.1 at 2nd hand (around rm50) and do this all over again (with ORIGINAL parts) =) Besides the possibility of somethings short-circuiting, is the below causes possible? 1. bad soldering? 2. putting wrong value capacitors onto the wrong places? More information provided, I'd just put all those ELNA's capacitors to someone for testing with a Fluke Multimeter, it reported that they are all okay! So, it seems the problems may not be causing by any defected capacitors. If there's no way of saving its life, I have no choices but just going back to the initial PLAN B, bypassing it to an external amplifier! About this modification, it's really a quite time-consuming and money-consuming experiment...sigh! ![]() This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: Apr 20 2011, 09:13 PM |
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Apr 22 2011, 12:16 AM
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#28
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I'd saved it, the speakers' no more horning! Though the subwoofer's not yet connected, I'd tested with a small radio the left & right speakers, they sound again!
Unfortunately, it's my fault insisted replacing those original 4.7uf 25v x4, 2.2uf 50v x13, 1uF 50v x3, 0.47uf 50v x5 with the ELNA's. After the replacement(re-soldering again, this could be fatal...), there's a problem of "power on", sometimes it can and sometimes it can't...weird? After several trials, it's ON again, I dare not power off it and let it keeping power on, let the capacitors be charging & working... Don't know why, any idea? Anyway, at least the ACS 45.1's not dead yet! ![]() |
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Apr 22 2011, 03:04 AM
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#29
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If the suspicious power on problem was solved, I'll connect all the L&R, as well as the subwoofer speakers to the pcb to have a thorough test again. Hope it will be okay!
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Apr 25 2011, 06:08 PM
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#30
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Right speaker: normal
Left speaker: no sound & no virbration Subwoofer: no sound but the speaker drive virbrates Really want to give up but the sound(only just comes from the right speaker) is quite good, even my friend said so, shit...haha...sigh! |
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May 4 2011, 01:39 AM
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#31
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Fortunately, no any parts or ICs has got obvious damages! Finally, the right & left as well as the subwoofer speakers sounds normally, it's quite lucky of the pcb to be alive!
A fast test gives quite good quality of the sound...clear, bright and splendid, as the advertisements of the ELNA's SILMIC II & Cerafine capacitors described. Need sometimes for the capacitors to be running in, and also testing stability of the machine. After that, it'll probably go into the 3rd stage, replacemnet of JRC4558D(dual opamp), LM324(quad opamp using as subwoofer filter?), 7812(voltage regulator)...with some other models. Thanks to all people here of the advices and possible solutions provided! This post has been edited by Tim_HKG: May 4 2011, 02:14 AM |
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May 4 2011, 09:55 PM
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#32
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QUOTE(beggarmaster2000 @ May 4 2011, 07:32 AM) Yes, though it has had bitter times, a fun ride as a whole! I know nothing of anything relating to the fields of electronic and audio, just a copycat of doing what you had taught me!By the way, any good replacement models for the stock ones JRC4558, KIA324P, 7812A? Besides, why does the ACS 45.1 use so many op-amps? One piece of KIA324P and 5 pieces of JRC4558? Thanks in advance? |
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