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 Water Cooling 101, How to Build a Water Cooled System

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gxthelord
post Oct 4 2013, 03:38 PM

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I'm totally new to water cooling and this guide actually lead out the most basic and most important things that I need to know instead of packing up with links that I dun understand. Nice guide TS! Will add to my bookmark for reference in future ^^ Good Job! ^^
gxthelord
post Oct 12 2013, 10:12 PM

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btw TS would u mind add one more part, as in what type of temperature we should be expecting in water cooling? biggrin.gif
pristine

This post has been edited by gxthelord: Oct 12 2013, 10:15 PM
gxthelord
post Oct 12 2013, 10:21 PM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 12 2013, 10:17 PM)
Hi bro, I didn't include that part as there isn't a proper range that I can reference. The temperature range varies a lot because of the different parts that go in the loop, the case + ambient environment, clock speeds, real core temperatures and a whole lot of other things.

And also, if you were to compare the top of the line air cooler and a budget AIO water cooler, on occasion, you'd get similar temperatures. laugh.gif
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yup I was wondering cuz I read alot reviews and many shows similar temperature. Let's just take an example of comparison of All In One and full water cooling? Would we able to see temp as low as 20C in our heaty country in a full water cooling setup?smile.gif

This post has been edited by gxthelord: Oct 12 2013, 10:22 PM
gxthelord
post Oct 15 2013, 12:46 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 12 2013, 11:43 PM)
Even for AIOs, with the existence of Swiftech's H-series, it's quite interesting as it's pretty modular, and easy to change stuff. If you were to compare the top end AIO solution (not kit) with a full out customed or even a good kit, the custom or kit solutions would give you better control over the temperatures you're getting simply because there's things you can change out and add. If you compare a H100/110 to a kit, chances are the temperatures will be only a few degrees from each other.

You won't be able to get 20C, unless your room itself is below 20C, say maybe 15C? 20C idle maybe. 20C load, no way. Even then, no promises you'll hit 20C unless your cooling setup is THAT good.
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Ohh No wonder... So I guess in our heaty country the best temp could achieved in non-air cond room would be roughly 26-30C then. biggrin.gif

On a Side issue, would be getting my parts soon.
EK DCP 4.0(OTW), EK DCP 4.0 RES COMBO(OTW), XSPC RAYSTORM INTEL(OTW), EKGTX660 GPU BLOCK(Already with me) RX360/EX360(waiting quotation? brows.gif )
So what I've read from TS page is I think I still need some compression fittings(I prefer these to barbs they look much tougher and safety-er), and tubings that's all right? smile.gif
gxthelord
post Oct 15 2013, 12:59 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 15 2013, 12:50 AM)
Fittings, tubing, fans...coolant? Haha
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Fans already standby when last time using my AIO. xD SP120, maybe will get another pair (cuz it looks better) biggrin.gif
Coolant I read that those distilled water in bottles from Petrol Station would work fine? On the safety side I rmb reading we can use non-conductive koolant which are safer is it?
For my tubes I will be going for colored/uv reactive tube, then using colourless koolant I guess. biggrin.gif
gxthelord
post Oct 15 2013, 01:20 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 15 2013, 01:16 AM)
Yes, distilled water will work fine. Just make sure you don't end up buying something else. tongue.gif

You can also use coolant, which has all the anti corrosion and what-nots already mixed in, complete with colour even.

Good choice on the coloured tube, but I'm guessing your res will be transparent, so might want to consider coloured coolant or dyed water. laugh.gif
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lol what type of other things I might end up buying? ><
Err damn i totally forgotten the res is transparent~! LOL... So are there coolant that are non-conductive n coloured??? smile.gif
I'm thinking of going colourless cuz from many reviews I read those premixed coolant or dye will make the tubing deteriorate faster than distilled water :/
gxthelord
post Oct 15 2013, 01:36 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 15 2013, 01:28 AM)
Deionised water, RO water, Mineral water. laugh.gif

Pretty much most coolant will be "non-conductive", but not all of them mention how "non-conductive" they are. Personally, I'd recommend XSPC's EC6, a formula based on Thermochill's excellent EC6 coolant which you can google up and read about. I have EC6 in stock if you're interested. Else, there's always Mayhems, but from infernoaswen's results, seems like the dye breaks down as well. But you can try Mayhem pastel coolants, haven't heard of issues so far.

Deteriorate?  blink.gif In what way? You mean stain? Staining will occur at high temperatures and if and when the dye in the coolant/water destabilises. From tests, the original Thermochill EC6 colour does not separate or destabilise. If the rebranded EC6 is anything like it, you shouldn't see staining.
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ohh~~ just make sure it stated distilled water then? XD

So distilled water are not "non-conductive" then eh? :/ EC6 eh? I'll do some digging, definitely will pm u if I need'em biggrin.gif Also might get some compression fittings n tubes from u after knowing what size I'll be needing. biggrin.gif
gxthelord
post Oct 15 2013, 02:53 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 15 2013, 01:41 AM)
Yes, be sure it's stated distilled.

Like it or not, everything will still be conductive. Just a matter of how much. The purpose of using Distilled and not anything else is coz it's pretty much pure in the sense that there's nothing, or at least very, very little things in it since it's considered dead water.

Sure bro. Consider your case size and then figure out your tube size. Be warned that if you choose to go 1/2" 3/4" tubing, you might have an issue with compression fittings when assembling on WC parts that have the ports next to each other.
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any recommended compression fittings o? I'm looking for black colored if possible seems like it will look better imo. I think I'll most probably going with 1/2:3/4 seems like it will look just nice. ^^
gxthelord
post Oct 15 2013, 03:08 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 15 2013, 03:03 AM)
Trypical choice will be Bitspower. haha. But if you want to budget, there's Enzotech.
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I think stick with Bitspower would be better is it? biggrin.gif dun wanna risk leaking cuz save few bucks on fittings lol.
Btw wanna ask recommendation for setting up the res/pump location. My idea is setting up there cuz there a panel there that can seen from the side. But the length of the tube from the GPU to the pump seems wierd ._."




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gxthelord
post Oct 15 2013, 11:09 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 15 2013, 11:00 AM)
Your diagram looks weird lol.

Pump/res>cpu>rad>GPU>pump res? ok what. You can even flip the position of the CPU and GPU block if you want.
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I tot for the CPU there's 2 holes, so if following ur res/pump>cpu>rad>gpu>pump, wun there be another hole left, same goes to the GPU block? :/
Yea I agree it looks wierd ><
gxthelord
post Oct 15 2013, 11:23 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 15 2013, 11:14 AM)
2 holes, one in one out. So in from pump, out from CPU block in to rad, out from rad in to GPU block, out to res pump.
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ohhh that makes much more sense! LoL I forgotten one hole can be used for one time only in/out. >__<
gxthelord
post Oct 16 2013, 12:39 AM

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Hi guys, it turns out I did one of the most silly mistakes when buying a new rad. I was over confident and went ahead to get an RX360 and only to realize it was too thick to fit in my NZXT Phantom 530. T___T
So now my option is to mount it on the back panel of the Casing. T__T Any recommendation where else I can mount it or how to let it have a better flow? It looks really wierd right now sad.gif



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gxthelord
post Oct 16 2013, 12:48 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 16 2013, 12:45 AM)
Did you buy a brand new one or used one? If brand new and you haven't used or damaged it in any way, maybe try asking for a swap?
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bad news was I bought it 2nd hand. >< Cuz it was at a attractive price. sad.gif So I guess I'll have to stick with it for now >_<
gxthelord
post Oct 16 2013, 01:07 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 16 2013, 01:01 AM)
Mount it at the back for now unless you want to sell it off and buy for yourself a new one. You can get a mount bracket system by koolance from niclasteoh.
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the seller agreed to give me the mounting together. :/ Maybe cut a box or something to hide it. >< Kinda regret now.. gonna need to save more next month T_T Btw wont the tubing kink or looks wierd cuz the tubing will be running directly to the pump located at below :/
gxthelord
post Oct 16 2013, 01:21 AM

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gahh. :/ Didn't know wc wasn't as easy as it seems. >< I think its possible to mount the rad on the top of the case without the cover, but might need find apes,or someone to make an cover to cover the entire top area except the mount and 2 holes for tubes, it'll look oddly tho I think sad.gif
I just rmb that tubes are best made as short as possible right?
gxthelord
post Oct 16 2013, 01:38 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 16 2013, 01:36 AM)
You don't need to cover actually. Some have left the radiator on the top exposed.

I don't think there's proof stating short tubes give better results, but typically that's what people do to keep things neat.
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yea but my top part of the case dosen't have any area where the tubes can go. So I could either drill holes on the casing or use those mount . Easiest way I think is mount a fan at 2 of them leaving one have area to bring the loop down to the CPU, where as on the top using 3xpull config. biggrin.gif
gxthelord
post Oct 16 2013, 01:48 AM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 16 2013, 01:47 AM)
use a bracket to lift your radiator off the case, use 90 degree adapters on the radiator inlet and outlet, route the tubes to the back of your case.
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hmmm means those rotaries is it? oh ya I almost forgotten this part. If I get rotaries I still need to get fittings right? biggrin.gif
gxthelord
post Oct 16 2013, 12:41 PM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 16 2013, 01:49 AM)
yeah, 90 degree or 45 degree rotaries. you'll still need compression fittings unless you buy 90 degree or 45 degree rotaries that come with compression fittings on one end.
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So I think this the only way for me to put the rad on top. I have to sacrifice the top panel and most probably gonna need to find/make some cover for it.
So if setup as the rad as on top. I will probably need 4 90 degree rotaries right? 2 on cpu block connecting 1 tube to rad, 1 to pump. and then another 2 90 degree rotatries, from gpu to pump and rad? smile.gif


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gxthelord
post Oct 16 2013, 11:44 PM

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QUOTE(pristine @ Oct 16 2013, 07:03 PM)
Wait. Why can't you put it at the back again? rclxub.gif I wouldn't sacrifice my top cover to up the rad on the top.
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looks ugly ><
gxthelord
post Oct 16 2013, 11:46 PM

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QUOTE(subrok007 @ Oct 16 2013, 02:02 PM)
er, u cant mount your rad in that position. you need mount rad towards to back, so that u can fix your fittings..
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why can't that position ya? Cuz I tot if put there the loop will look much better

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