Dear all,

I just replace my switch 20A to a new one. The water heater work fine. However, I found something not right here. The new switch LED keep ON. and my water heater "EARTH LED" also ON.

This is my old switch type, inside the hole "gembang" already...


This is my new switch


Any advice or something wrong here?

In my opinion, I think the neutral line is not connected correctly... Get the elctrician to recheck the line and the power box

did you fit it yourself? if so, then I suggest you can take them out again and take a look at the terminals. There should be 2 inlets(L1 & N1) and 2 outlets(L2 & N2). The fact that the neon is lighted is because the incoming (live and neutral) is at the other end of the terminals. Just switch them to the opposite sides, then all should be fine. look at the instruction manual in the package. It's nothing wrong with your connection, just "terbalik". Just make sure that the incoming live(L1) and neutral(N1), is coordinated with the outgoing live(L2) and neutral(N2). If you are not sure, get an electrician to help you. but always take care and not criss cross the live and neutral...

regarding your water heater "earth" led, what is it? the earth connection in the switch is apart from the other terminals. But I don't think you fit the earth wrongly, if so, it would have tripped the ELCB...

This is what I means the "Earth" LED, previously with the old switch this LED only will ON, when I switch on. However now with the new switch I ON/OFF it also always switch ON.

Most probably u have the wiring connections "terbalik" already.

Swap both incoming(line) life and neutral with the outgoing (load) life and neutral.

If u have no idea what im saying u better find a wireman to do it.

The heater also will functioning well if terbalik the wire... I tot the fuse will burn?

If you swap between live and neutral the water heater can still work. But if you swap the earth every time you switch it on your elcb will trip, that provided the elcb functioning. Hope your problem is only wrong wires. Look to me maybe leakage, did u change the switch because the original switch melt?

I'm not referring to swapping live and neutral.

I'm saying that the live and neutral from the supply side is connected wrongly in the switch.

Both the live and neutral from the supply side should be connected to the LINE side of the switch.

In your case, it might be connected in the LOAD side.

If u have no idea how to check that u should consult ur wireman and make sure u off the main supply power b4 attempting anything.

Yes. I believe is leakage, because the old switch at the inside started melt. It's happen sometimes got power, sometimes need to press it hard to make it ON.

What is your suggestion?

First check if you install correctly. If yes and confirm not that problem. Maybe is your wiring or the new switch got problem.

You always use max heat on your water heater? Seldom melt unless always set to max.

20 is MAX, normally we put on 18/20. I think also consider Max level...

The new switch one of the earth is not installed to it. Because the new switch earth hole is too small.. Inside the switch It got 3 earth wires.. The hole maximum only can fit in 2 earth wires. Is it the reason?

All Earth need to be connect because some are loop to another circuit. You can trim some copper to fit all in. Earth don't carry current it will trip if have current.

Not sure if that is the problem but if that fix that mean you have earth leakage and your elcb not functioning. If function your elcb will trip.

Hi guys..

Based on the picture, how to know which wire is supply and load for black and yellow?

[attachmentid=6113812]

Use test pen.

Thanks.. Done.
Strange is why switch off, my boiler water come out is hot. On or off, water is hot.

Both yellow is live? Or one of the yellow is live? If one yellow is live another not, than someone wired wrongly.

If both yellow are live, maybe the boiler wired to a wrong set of wires

One yellow is supply.
https://youtu.be/7DE8QcAbRIk

That mean the person who install for you just make it permanent on earlier.

Uhm.. Previously they install 2 yellow and 2 black under inlet. Which work fine.

Becoz the click damage, i change a new one which is on the video and photo.
But strangely, i follow back OR wire all 4 holes correctly will give me hot water no matter i switch on and off...

Am i instal wrongly as in the video?

This post has been edited by Alert_RaZO: Mar 5 2016, 12:08 AM

Is the new switch working accordingly?

Not sure how the heater are wired, cannot give you advice without knowing how is wired. Better ask someone with electrician knowledge to be on site to help.

My aircond power switch is exactly the same like TS, Schnieder brand.
LED stay on regardless of switch on or off. But aircond can only turn on by remote control when the switch is in on position.
Schneider switches memang behaving like that?

This post has been edited by aeiou228: Mar 5 2016, 10:02 AM

check the wiring inside the switch, there might not be neutral wire inside there..

wtf.. This is a direct connection!! Wrong installation!!@!

The LED light should be normally off and only lights up when the switch contacts are "live".

Either the switch is defective (and your wireman simply direct connect to save a bit of money) or the wireman is incompetent..

Check, replace and have it wired up correctly..
(i.e. live contacts to be opposing pair of contacts of the led wire and only lights up once switch has closed)

If I'm not mistaken, this switch has always the dim light ON and when the switch is power, the light come on bright.

I have seen similar switches at couple of my friends houses....I was told the dim light works like a night light, to recognize the switch.

Not one or two, I would have seen at least 5 of my friend;s places with similar scenario.

If you are unsure, better get a electrician to check on it for peace of mind

I fix many different brands of heater switch, and model. All thr red light will off wheb os off. Some model the wiring for the indicator are external, and you need to tap to the correct side, if not the indicator will permanent on.

Sorry for bringing up old post. I have the exact same switch and it does the same thing! Is it faulty model?

I face similar problem. Your solution above is helpful. thank you.

just wondering when you have that problem light on when switch is off, can you actually still turn on the heater? i don't think it's a safety standard to design the lights to be dimmed on when it's off. confusing only.

the led light is on because, the load and line wires are mixed up. Just swap the load and line wires , fix the problem.

I have the same problem and same model of the switch...is that something wrong? How you fixed it? Thanks.

I too having the same switch, same problem, anyone here can help?

Ok. Solve mine using the same switch that you have, but for the air-cond.

Connect the live wires (mine are white wires) which are from the dB to L1 and N1 of the switch.

Connect the load wires (mine are black wires) to the L2 and N2.

As for my water heater which was wired differently as my aircond explained earlier, but also using the same switch (Schneider KB31D20NE):

Connect the live wire which is from the dB (mine is 1 of the 2 white wires is live) to L1.

Connect the load wire which is from the heater (mine is the other remaining white wire) to L2.

Connect the neutral wire which is from the dB (mine is 1 of the 2 black wires) to N1.

Connect the neutral wire which is from the heater (mine is the other remaining black wire) to N2.

Disclaimer: If not sure, hire an electrician! While finding my way around, I mistakenly connect the wires in such a way that even if the switch is off, the load wire in the heater has electricity, enough to kill someone who thought there would be no electricity when the switch is in off position. Misled also by heater standby lights did not light up; because the circuit is not complete

I had a few testing tools at my disposal to 'figure out' any mistakes. (1) A multimeter to understand the continuity of the double pole switch. (2) A Fluke voltmeter or Test pen to determine the presence/absence of electricity on the heater when the switch is on/off, as well as to identify the live wire at the wall. I never trust the wiremen before me, nor the colours of the wires.





This post has been edited by gumshoe101: Dec 29 2019, 04:09 PM

neutral and live wire terbalik.

for the red wire, one of them is live and this live had to put in L1 and not L2.
basically, u need to terbalik the red wire from L1 to L2 and L2 to L1 holes.

mine using schnidder brand vivance ..led off when switch off ..

when switch on ..led stay on...air-cond on with initialize mode ..remote on..aircond on ..if remote no on..air cond just in standby mode