can you not dream of vin_ann so much... i think it's starting to affect your memory and logic...

got.... USD 4.50 per piece... Sapim CX-Ray...
http://fairwheelbikes.com/sapim-cxray-spok...ite-p-4371.html

zipp 101/30/60/202/303/404/808/1080, Reynold RZR, Bontrager Race XXX Lite/Aeolus 35/Aeolus 50, Mavic Ksyrium SLR/Rsys SLR/Cosmic Carbone, Corima Winium/MCC, Easton EA90SLX,/EC90SLX/EA70, DT Swiss XR1450/RRC32/RRC46/RR21/RC28/RC38, etc...

at USD 4.50 per spokes... how can it be cheaper???
http://fairwheelbikes.com/sapim-cxray-spok...ite-p-4371.html

i too want to believe that story bro...

very good until the time he buys it right??? then you say athena is good at that time... and when he gets athena, you say record is good...

your money.... your choice loh.... as long as you dun regret pouring money where you should not...

true story...

got option one... just be prepared to pay money lar

bikehubstore.com is your good buddy... for less than RM2k... front wheel can be sub 600 gram and rear wheel quite likely to be sub 700 gram...

wrong... anti-sram...you sram hater...

good luck bro...

force 22 is rm3.5k... at both the sram taikor's shop...

you don't... you just need to know what to shake...

yup... yup... he did say 3k+... it could be 3.1k, 3.2k, 3.3k, 3.4k, 3.5k, 3.6k, 3.7k, 3.8k, 3.9k, 3.95k, 3.975k, 3.99k

eughhhhhh!!!

another idiot that will be cheated by another future armstrong and then turn to a sourpuss that keeps on trying to piss people off....

that's not for you to say...tat's my line...

it's just the fact that that is my line and no one shall say it except me...

it's just like jeremy clarkson introducing the "star in a reasonably priced car"... no one can ever do "Today, our star in a reasonably priced car... everybody, <insert name>!!!" in the show... no one can, not hammond, not may... no one except clarkson...

bring ur lawyau la

pedalspot and gh

hand pump is meant for emergencies which is why it's portable...it's harder to get it up to higher presssures...

floor pump is the reverse and meant for home

u can always double side tape it...

what is defined as a good hub??? a bomb proof one, light, noisy?

the pawls is responsible for locking the freehub in place when torque is applied on it so it will turn the wheel over and allow it to free wheel when you stop pedaling... so, the more pawls it has, the better distribution of load it is between the pawls.. that being said... some people also believe more pawls create more drag on the hub...

and on that topic... there is also another thing to note on a hub.. which is how many engagement points it has.. which is how many degree does it engage once in a full circle... 36 point will mean it will engage every 10 degree and chris king has a 72 point hub (5 degree) and dt swiss star ratchet has 24 point (15 degree), upgraded dt swiss star ratchet has 36 point and industry nine hubs until now is the highest at 120 point...it has it's advantage on off road conditions where sometimes granny gears are used and any pedaling action equates to turning the wheel rather than finding that the pawls has not yet engage and you are still freewheeling.. on road bikes.. not a big factor for me personally...

the special thing with chris king against most other hubs is that although it's 72 point engagement is not as high as I9's 120point... it's ring drive method enables a chris king hub to engage all 72 points at once while I9 engages only a couple of points at any time...and chris king also made their hub shells to be very durable despite using aluminum freehub and axles (which are slightly oversized, 17mm i think) to increase wheel lateral stiffness... it is also known for it's very reliable in-house US made steel bearings and for a reasons that is not much of a reason... their hubs are quite light (although not as light as zipp's 88/188 combo or some extralite or tune hubs)... but, it's light by comparison to most hubs... whether it's price is justifiable... that depends on the buyer....

and, if a chris king retailer does things right.. they'd have replacement parts like freehub, axles and stuff like that making CK hubs last pretty much a lifetime if they do not first become obsolete...

p/s: last but not least... the chris king angry bee sound which is to me, the most annoying thing ever in the world...

and to clarify... i am not a chris king seller, supporter, distributor of any sort.. i am just saying what i know... and i absolutely hate that hub for it's sound...so, miao.. i am no CK fanboy ah...

This post has been edited by butthead: Sep 29 2013, 12:11 AM

when has double sided tape been painful when stick to skin???

tape, salah parking feeling.. dun tapem scared hurt youtself... apa mau lar...

bag it and stuff it can or not?

aiyah... cut it off lar...

how much meat u willing to cut off?

spez, prologo, fizik, selle italia all avail for sub 500... but if u buy spez then of course easier to get spez..

actually, i understand sram's group don't include chains...but usually shops will already provide price with respective chain included..

shimano, yes

in toupe range...if you can afford toupe expert plus @ rm390, that is even better..the models on top of that requires a different post

the expert plus is not too thin and yet not as plushy feely

11-28 will cover everything irregardless of cranks...

unless you won't see any hills in your life..i would not consider anything with closer ratios...

the 28 will come in handy on climb heavy days especially with a standard crank

if you are not picky about weight... always use back the chain of your group...

some chain's link plates are not designed the same as the one from your group and then you might have slight pick up problem on the front derailleur when you upshift... nothing catastrophic... but the chain pickup might not be as fast or smooth as the chain it was meant for as the design of the ramps and pins is slightly more suited to that particular chain...it will still work, but just not as smoothly as it was intended too...

other chains would be kmc and the other lightweight or colored link plate ones... they are usually quite expensive as well and they might not last as long as their heavier counter parts as the link plates have holes drilled onto them to save weight...

what's the price of both?

pinarello marvel is far from the top line up.. although the design is based on paris... they used the lesser 30hm12k carbon from torayca while their top of the line dogma is layed with 65hm1k...

in terms of ultravox rs-1... it is 2nd from the top of their current line up the ultravox Ti.. it uses a combination of T700 & T800 carbon and little amounts of mitsubishi rayon 40 (the stuff they make high end golf clubs from) to layup their frames...on whether if 30hm12k is better than t700 / t800... i am unable to tell you since i am not an expert in composites... i believe pinarello might not have made the entire bike out of 30hm12k and they might have layed it up with some other carbon to tune it's ride qualities but the 30hm12k is their major selling point while swiftcarbon tells you the 3 types of carbon they use but didn't specifically say where and how it is use...

the ultravox in my opinion would be value for money since it is not exactly high end prices and bikeradar had even given it good praises...
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/categor...travox-12-46243

they even made a factory visit in china, well which bike is not made in china or taiwan now anyways...the company is not founded by a chinese though which is kinda consolation if you ask me...
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article...-factory-33576/

both frames are up to date... so, prices and performance aside... it is just a factor of whether do you want to own a past and current year tour winning brand or do you want to own a practically unknown that might or might not be as great as the marvel???

swift carbon also has some rather interesting molding techniques (u can read from their sites) used in their frame like EPS which if my numbskull brain understands properly is that their workers lay the carbon layers around a foam core in the mold where the foam core will expand when being cured hence compressing the carbon layers against the mold and making the internals of the carbon as smooth and the layers of carbon as compacted as possible rather than the standard internal bladder system currently used by most bike manufacturers...

once again, i am not swift carbon salesman.. in case miao wants to say i am a swiftcarbon fanboy...i am also no pinarello hater in case he wants to blame me for that...

This post has been edited by butthead: Sep 29 2013, 05:35 PM

you can always choose others... it will still shift like it is supposed to...it will not give any problems that causes the bike to fail or crap out...

but, then if you find that there are times when front up-shifts are un-satisfactory or there might be slight delays or it takes 1 or 2 pin passes before it successfully picks up the chain...then you know what might be the cause...

the fellas (vin_ann, miao, mac wai, lil) here for some reason that i can never ever understand likes the continental gp4000s...i for one actually like the GP Force / Attack combo over GP4000s and they are only slightly a bit more pricy than gp4000s (that is if i ever fork out the money to buy it)

i personally don't ride those tires because they are flat out expensive for me to abuse... @ rm155 per piece cheapest, i think they are nuts and i have stuck to my favvy (and most loathed by this buggers) the maxxis detonator forever which i got for a self proclaim el-cheapo price of RM55 per piece... they work fine for me and have never given me much detonation despite the name and rumors by this gp4000s supporters that the tire might detonate at any moment...

so, it's luck i guess when it comes to tire reliabilities...as for whether you should mount expensive tires on your bike? it depends on you, if you think your expensive bike is worthy of some nice tires... go for it.. on the other hand...there is no wrong with mounting some less expensive tires on the bike either as they most likely function the same most of the time unless you start pushing the limits of tire adhesion...

as for wet grip, the most logical question that i will ask is... is it really that important to you?

1) do you go out and ride when it rains?
:- once you start riding, you might soon find that you or your buddies will find chances to generate excuse not to ride as soon as they see dark clouds... no chance to take advantage of the wet grip

2) do you go out and ride for long hours? above 2.5 hours riding time would count as long rides for example
:- reason is if you do not chicken out on rainy days, the only chance you get to encounter wet roads is getting rained on mid-ride and if you do.. what is wrong with taking it a bit slow when entering turns and stuff... bike tires never lose grip on straight roads that are wet out of no reasons...

and considering road tires are already that narrow and lack the contact surface... cutting grooves on it to improve water dispersion actually reduces more contact surface that you might not have enough of in the first place hence reducing dry grip (from an engineer's perspective, true or not... arguable)...

so, for me personally (not sure about how the others feel, which i doubt they will ride in the rain anyways) is that wet grip is not of absolute importance... you can always just take things slower, brake earlier, enter turn at lower speeds, look further upfront to prevent snatching your brakes in emergencies...or you can always buy tires with minimal grooves instead of full road slicks if you are concerned about riding on wet roads or you can go with full slicks and they are most likely to still ride fine in the wet... jus dun try to lean your bike like those motogp rider or enter turns at formula 1 speeds and you should not find your face being introduced to the ground and why helmets are a good investment..

23mm would be the norm... heavy riders can try 25mm if the frame clears it as 25 allows for slightly lesser rolling resistance with lower pressures (yes...very counter-intuitive, but studies have been done to prove it)...

This post has been edited by butthead: Sep 29 2013, 09:47 PM

you can consider running 25mm's...some self read if you are interested..

http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/bik...l-faster_209888

http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/05/new...25c-tire_218011

the results indicates lesser rolling resistance on flat roads... so, the weight increase of 25mm might hinder it's benefits on uphills arguably...and some say aero disadvantages as well as the surface is also larger on a 25mm hence creating more drag.... anyways, don't expect that you will fly using a 25mm instead of 23mm... we might be talking about difference of around 1% maybe.. but you can run it with lower pressures and the 25mm generally will provide and comfier ride over the rough roads....

i mean, if you wish to put AD08R on your evo X even though you don't take advantage of it's grip... i guess it is quite a valid reason since the tire matches the car's image...

but then again, no one says you can't put on some simex / nankang or something like that if you manage to find ones that fits your evo x 18" rims and you only drive it to the wet market??? then, it's a case of why not..

if you drive a kancil, there is no point putting anything better tires on it as it will never be an evo no matter wat tires you put on it...unless you have too much money and you want to do it anyway just for the sake of doing it....if you understand what i am saying....

a friend took the bait and bought one for himself while in singapore... damage SGD 299

bike pro has it... in taman megah... rm80 per piece...they just ordered in a batch for cateye and universal... but from the box i saw... i think very limited quantity...
http://bikeprobicycle.com/v2/

you might want to consider the universal one just in case 3 , 4 months down the road you change computers... then you have to buy again...

not sure who is the authorized dealer for pina here in KL.... depending on how they spec the bike... from the look of your price... the pina will head into the mid 10k region as well...

the ultravox rs-1 if built up to the price of rm11k should already have something like force 22, maybe a full zipp alloy finishing kit, a prologo saddle of mid range price, and maybe fulcrum racing 3...

i am already the VIP for this section... Very Irritating Person

then you'll want to nuke all the CK owners... cause that is 10 times more annoying... go download the ringtone and use it on your phone... you'll know how it feels
http://chrisking.com/ringtone

bikepro has it... just bought one not too long ago... i don't think it will get sapu'ed up so fast... but being malaysians who even lines up for a new iphone launch... why not???

give nombor lar... call siapa wei....

and mana dia tau siapa unker... a lot of unkers lar out there...

screwed....

come down buy lar... miao will belanja you go klang eat bak kut teh....

hey!!! what unker.... i not that old yet leh...

it's the sound that is worth paying RM2k for... and people die for that sound...

what's wrong with this world?

the problem today is the fact that 11speed groups have not gone down far enough or you could have saved a bit with 105 or rival / apex making the bike closer to 10k or sub 10k....

i believe what you listed is a manufacturer spec'ed complete bike while all swift in KL is all custom from ground up... meaning you buy frame only... the good thing is that you can choose what you want from there instead of spending time trading in stuff for something else...

or, you can actually get some stuff outside for example, finishing kit, wheels or even groupset....i'd say the zipp finishing kit is a bit too pricey as you might be able to save 100+ on ritchey or maybe even more if you go for probike gear finishing kit...

at the end of the day... you have to make your own choice.. there is many ways to go around this things....